Drip molding went in without issue. Nice and fresh now.

Also a pic of the JDM “drivers” side wiper arm. Looks like it sits just a bit higher up from the passengers wiper than the stock US arm, but path is fine as far as I can tell. First time I ran into a RHD part not compatible with the US car.

 

I'm going to assume it's because Nissan doesn't make that part anymore. I tried to buy the oem drivers wiper blade using the oem part number from my Nissan dealer and they told me it's discontinued and tried to give me the value advantage version. It fits but it's skinnier and doesn't look as nice.

 

The 6000K LED city lights keep turning more blue/getting colder over time, so I decided to try amber again before potentially removing the bulb altogether. I think it's due to them being overdriven since the stock bulbs are halogen and are supplied more amps than the ideal for LEDs. The amber is starting to grow on me. It gives a little more dimension to the headlight and reflects nicely on the main projector.





This one is most true to my eyes. They always started off matching pretty well, but eventually got to this

 

Finished up a project today.... I have never seen anything like this done, so I took the plunge. Designed it myself.

Have some big upgrades coming by the end of the year, and this will fit right in.

 

I

Finally ripped off the bandaid and pulled the trigger.

 

I recently took the car out for a drive. I haven't driven it for a year and Jesus what nostalgia. AC still worked everything still worked. My screen has faded a bit and the dash has developed a few more cracks but she was solid. I went back to fishbowl look so the red leather can really pop out I did an oil change and while it was on the lift after a few beers I got impulsive and decided to tackle rattling cats.

After I took off the white pipe I realized that the cats were still intact so it threw me off but just messing around I pushed one of the cores and it was completely loose.

I've drilled out cats before and after a few more beers I convinced myself that I could bust them out. I have a full mechanic shop on my disposal multiple air tools drills etc.

The secondary part of the catalytic converters is not ceramic. It is an aluminum honeycomb coated with ceramics and other metallic compounds.

What does this mean? That it will be the most ultimate of ***** pains of my life. I of course thinking ahead I took a 4-ft stainless steel hollow bar that I sharpened to an absolute slicing Edge. I brought my forged trusty 4 lb hammer I placed it right on the corner of the core and I gave it a swung that Thor would be proud of.

It didn't do ****ing **** 🤣 it just started the forging process of the core. Knowing I can't keep doing that I bring out the heavy drill bits so I start to drill and I drill and I drill and I drill and vacuum and a drill enough to wear a few swungs of this vibranium made shaft would surely break it apart 🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂. Psych I was wrong again.

I am getting chunks out but parts of the core are turning solid and are pushing deeper into the cat. Enough to where they got very close to the O2 sensors on both sides.

I tried every tool at my disposal and I was happy that it took every single one of them and multiple cycles to get it done. I ended up with a hole saw with a 2ft extension and three sets of drills to get them out.

It was exhausting but worth it. There's only a 2% change in sound improvement meaning that they do not sound much different than the original cats. The rattling noise disappeared of course and there is slightly more power.

Because these are after the secondary O2 sensor I figured readings wouldn't change much I still not have read them but a check engine light has not popped up and efficiency doesn't look like it was affected it might have improved but that could be my own bias.

Hope you enjoyed this story ✌🏽

 

Interesting experiment, thanks for sharing pics!

I’m currently running:

• OEM headlight bulbs
• single filament turn signal bulbs (they don’t illuminate until indicating a turn)
• No parking bulbs (pulled them both when one of the OEM ones burnt out)
• OEM fog light bulbs

I used to have LED “switchback” bulbs for turning signals, and while I liked the look, even the expensive/high-end products would fail after a year or two.

I think I might try yellow fog bulbs soon. Always liked that look

 

Very cool, so you’ll have custom-designed long tube intakes as well? Or is the duct meant to integrate with stock air boxes somehow? I assume you’ll have one on the other side too?

Looking forward to seeing your project come together. Inspiring to see G owners take projects from concept to end product

 

It's more for looks than anything, buuuuuut..... I'm about to supercharger the G!! This will supply some fresh air right into the pass through, where the supercharger will sit on the other side. If it adds any HP or temp benefits, that will be a bonus.

Supercharger (and tons of maintenance) will probably be completed in Jan.

All this right after I finished my engine bay redux project (lol). I'll be posting that later today or tomorrow.

 

Engine bay redux project FINALLY done.... It won't stay this way for long.

 

Glad to hear everything's still working even after sitting for over a year. I haven't driven my G since 2020! If/when I ever get the time to replace the battery, replace all the fluids/filters including the gas, etc... I hope I'm as lucky as you. Thankfully, my car has been stored in a cold dry warehouse for the past 5+ years, so I still don't have any fading or cracks in the dash.

 

My switchbacks are from Diode Dynamics, and they've been on the car for over 6 years now with no issues. They do need an external resistor so most of the heat is outside and away from the bulb itself. That's my running theory for lasting so long, at least. Maybe it's a hit or miss. I had good luck with their switchbacks, but their cheaper 194 bulbs keep turning blue on me.

I personally love the yellow bulbs. I also added a yellow overlay so it still looks yellow when the lights are off.

 

Speaking of switchbacks a resistor is necessary in order for the bulb to not overheat and hyperflash. If someone is uncomfortable adding a resistor you can buy this premade resistor. One end plugs into the bulb and the other plugs into the oem socket.


7443 LED Front Turn Signal Load Resistor Adapter Anti Hyper Flash Error Canceler | eBaysocket

 

Some years ago, I bought a pair of LED's intended for the turn signals. They were clear and bright, but the resistors got so hot that I bailed on it.

Have things changed? Are there plug & play LED bulbs for the G these days that are easy DYI, work reliably, and don't overheat?

 

I don't think so. From what I've noticed, the only thing that's really changed is that resistors can be built into the bulb itself. I believe the hyperflash is a car thing, so unless newer cars have changed the way they alert for a bad bulb, we'll be stuck with resistors.

I recently went back from tails as turns and put an amber LED in the stock location. It had a built-in resistor, so it gets wickedly hot. But no hyperflashing, and the bulb hasn't failed yet.