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All of us that are lowered experience bump steer as the tie rods should be approximately parallel to the lower control arms to minimize bump steer. My understanding is that when they are not parallel with one another, random changes in toe occur, which is that feeling you get when you hit a bump and it feels like the car is directing itself to the left or right.
A few other companies make these and I am thinking about adding a set when I upgrade my dampers in 2026 as both changes require an alignment.
Yup. Same here. The car has almost 120K miles, so I may replace the inner tie rods as a precaution and hopefully tighten up my steering a bit. Might as well replace the outers while I'm there! It'll also help if I end up lowering the car a bit more.
That height is probably the lowest I'd like my car to be at, but I'm already scraping a decent amount on the roads I drive. I currently have my car set up at about a 2 finger gap up front and 1.5 finger gap rear (~26.5" and ~26.375" fender to ground). My front lip has a lot more scratches than before (not visible unless under the car), and I've definitely felt my transmission grind over the crappier roads. My tolerance for scraping is relatively low, though.
I'd keep in mind the height difference with passengers if that's a regular occurrence. With two adults in the back, there's almost no gap between the wheels and the fender, and I scrape my transmission, cross member, and exhaust more often, and have started rubbing the rear inner fender.
I'm also worried about changing the suspension geometry too much. I need to do more research on it, but my car does dart a bit when going over bumps. But maybe that's my toe settings. I need to get my car on ramps and see if I want a bumpsteer kit.
Car looks great! I love those wheels, and the yellow brakes add a nice pop of color!
At this current height I'm happy to say scraping is minimal, though you need to go slowly over speed bumps or you'll hear the skid plate make contact. I'm not built for properly slammed cars anymore, so good chance I never adjust the ride height from this setting until I end up going down to 18" wheels. Appreciate the kind words, I'm really liking the wheels as well because even with the car lowered now it still looks mostly like a normal car to the general public, and as for the brakes....I really didn't like the yellow when I got the car but with it lowered I'm quickly warming up to them.
Originally Posted by socketz67
All of us that are lowered experience bump steer as the tie rods should be approximately parallel to the lower control arms to minimize bump steer. My understanding is that when they are not parallel with one another, random changes in toe occur, which is that feeling you get when you hit a bump and it feels like the car is directing itself to the left or right.
A few other companies make these and I am thinking about adding a set when I upgrade my dampers in 2026 as both changes require an alignment.
While installing the coilovers and arms I also went ahead and threw on a GKTech angle kit which relocated the outer tie rod pickup point. Luckily this also seems to have kept my geometry pretty standard as the arms are essentially parallel with the chassis. Not sure you'd have the same outcome at this height with the stock stuff.
While installing the coilovers and arms I also went ahead and threw on a GKTech angle kit which relocated the outer tie rod pickup point. Luckily this also seems to have kept my geometry pretty standard as the arms are essentially parallel with the chassis. Not sure you'd have the same outcome at this height with the stock stuff.
Can you link to the kit that was installed? Also, any possibility that you could snap a pic of the install and include the lower control arm? I'm curious as to how badly mine is off. I can reciprocate and try to get a pic on my side so we can compare. Not sure though if a pic taken with the car jacked up and the wheel unsupported is the best way to compare though...
Can you link to the kit that was installed? Also, any possibility that you could snap a pic of the install and include the lower control arm? I'm curious as to how badly mine is off. I can reciprocate and try to get a pic on my side so we can compare. Not sure though if a pic taken with the car jacked up and the wheel unsupported is the best way to compare though...
I owe you a pic of my current setup. Was able to squeeze my arm under there with no ramps, so this is how it sits naturally.
In the first pic, I see that the tie rod is not parallel with the LCA (angle looks similar to yours), but when I go to the rear of the wheel, it almost looks parallel.
Driver’s side. Jew from in front of the wheel.
Driver’s side, view from behind the wheel. Driver’s side, view from behind the wheel Driver’s side, view from behind the wheel. Further away as I was hoping to see the angle of the tie rod better
Last edited by socketz67; Oct 21, 2025 at 12:43 PM.
Didn't expect to be posting in this thread again so soon, but over the weekend I noticed my clutch fluid was low after coming home from a drift event. Saw some fluid seeping out of my trans and knew it was time to finally ditch the god awful CSC. CZP delete kit should be wrapped up tomorrow and everything put back together. Here's to hoping I don't have to worry about slave cylinder issues for years.
Didn't expect to be posting in this thread again so soon, but over the weekend I noticed my clutch fluid was low after coming home from a drift event. Saw some fluid seeping out of my trans and knew it was time to finally ditch the god awful CSC. CZP delete kit should be wrapped up tomorrow and everything put back together. Here's to hoping I don't have to worry about slave cylinder issues for years.
Update: CZP kit is in and the car feels better than it ever has (also works without issue with my Z1 clutch which I believe it meant to be problematic). I think the CSC may have had a small leak when I first purchased the car and it just continually grew worse, glad to never need to worry about that again.
$42 each plus shipping and tariffs on Amayama. Be sure to get new covers as well for the bolts.
Walking this one back with corrected information.
28886JK000 is the right (drivers) arm for a RHD G37. It is bizarre because it is a quite different shape and longer than the US drivers arm, yet it fit perfectly and all wiper coverage is good.... I really can't explain this, as the two have very different geometries, yet it works. I should have taken a picture side by side before I installed it. Hard to get a good picture with them aligned while on the car.
28881JU51A is either not available or would potentially take months to get, so I canceled this one. Not enough bang for the buck to wait and the tariffs are making these parts more expensive. I am SO glad that I got all of my parts from Amayama before the tariffs hit.
