That's what I thought... Coupes are mostly dying it seems, 99.9i% chance Infiniti will never bring that back and even if they did I doubt I'd be interested.

Got my heart rate up for a brief instant though, lol.

 

were lucky its not an SUV lol

 

I will hold on to my Coupe until either I or it croaks one. The Zed/4, hard to call at this point but, admittedly, I am no spring chicken by far anymore and ingress/egress is proving to become "tedious." If, and a big "IF" I get a SUV to replace my now-retired 26-year-old pickup, it won't be a Infiniti. Jaguar more than likely but not anything Nissan-branded unless they get their act together. Even then, doubtful...

OK, back to topic

 

Typo, same **** at the end of the day.

 

Thanks John. The exhaust was supposed to happen earlier this month, but I struck out at the two shops I normally use as many seem to shy away from brainstorming style custom work.

Note in the second picture that the midpipe needed to be reconfigured and bent inward to make it through that rear tunnel or otherwise it would have rattled.

Also, I had to use the ST 17A-22B mufflers without the tips already added because the version with the tips (shown in a few of the pics) was not long enough to sit in the hanger and extend to the edge of the diffuser cutout. James from Sebring Tuning provided a set of both mufflers, so we could verify. He brought this up because he recalled Fast Intentions ran into this issue as well when they build their catback around the same mufflers.

I always thought that there would be alot of tradeoffs moving to larger tubing (1.8" to 2.5"), but really the only one I notice is the added noise as car seems to behave much better across the entire powerband.

Looking forward to the tune as I have already learned a ton from Eugene.

Hard to believe that he can get these numbers from a stock setup and still maintain CARB/Emissions compliance (orange/red are the stock ECU flash):



Don't just look at the peak numbers, but first at the beginning of the curve and where the HP/TQ starts with the tune in place, then look to the right at 5500 RPM where the car is making more power past where the rev limiter normally cuts in.

 

I've never had the car on a dyno. And while it would be a fascinating event, I wouldn't have any before/after scenario to compare, so the whole point would be peak number bragging rights and comparison to other people's runs. All that being said, I'll probably never do it now.

I know I'm a noob about dynos (I'm not proud), but I think it's a fair statement that peak numbers aren't worth squat for a daily driver. We live in two places: response off the line, and midrange as you climb the gears. Going WOT in a high gear means nothing if you're just rowing up the highway ramp. And even though I don't have dyno proof, I clearly recall my butt-dyno reaction of a fatter midrange after working with Eugene. You're going to love it.

As far as response out of the hole... 4.083:1 rear gears achieves that goal nicely when matched with poly mounts and sticky 3-season tires.

As to CARB Compliance. New York joined California and others in 2015. I am soooo glad I got my high-flow cats installed the year before that happened. Got that in with 9 months to spare, LOL.

 

I'm honestly not interested in the dyno either. My interest lies more in how he manages AFR, knock sensor sensitivity and timing to make improvements over the tradeoffs Nissan had to make when they created the stock tune. 7AT shift quality is also an interest.

Are you using the lockout mode, which requires a pin to start the car? Based on the theft activity, I'm wanting to try this mode myself, then combine with the OBD port and steering wheel locks I'm already using.

 

Nope. I don't think that was a thing when we did the remote tune. I don't recall that discussion at all.

I think (?) I've got three maps: valet mode, 91 octane, and 93 octane. But maybe I don't have the 91 octane tune... I just don't remember. Also, I have never switched maps with the cruise control dance. For that matter, I don't know if I even could anymore after swapping in Hexotic's old steering wheel.

It might seem like I've got details on my fingertips sometimes, but truth is I've forgotten way more than I remember these days. Old man walking!

 

Tell me about it. Eugene is sharing details with me about how to manage the test runs and share the log files across Dropbox while also explaining what parameters to log by default.

I'm like, where's my notebook as I will never remember these details.

• Load the low octane tune
• Make sure the car is warm
• Start logging
• Hit the highway, drop the car into 3rd or 4th gear with manual mode
• Nail it and hit the rev limiter, which is indicated by a clicking sound
• Do that twice
• Stop logging
• Go into the Ecutek App->My Files
• Share the file back to the logs folder on Dropbox

Impressed that I remembered all those steps.

 

Surprised you guys are sour on Z1. I’ve had really good customer service from them over the years and even good technical troubleshooting with them on a few occasions. Mind you, I think the technical troubleshooting competence depends on who you happen to get on the line, as one time it was less than stellar, but overall they’ve been a great place to get oem parts, full kits for doing fluid changes (ie to include fluid, new plugs, crush washers etc in one no-thought package).

Indeed, last week I ordered oem plugs from them and then realized I should probably order the throttle body gaskets at the same time since they will have to come off. I tried to add those to the order a couple of hours later and couldn’t because it had already been processed that fast. Got both the plugs and gaskets two days later even - during the holiday rush.

The one thing about them is that they have way more parts, especially OEM parts, that don’t show up if you search on their website - but if you simply google Z1 Motorsports and whatever OEM part you are looking for, many times it pops right up. I also like that they tend to suggest the other parts that would go along with an installation to complete the job correctly and sell those as packages. For example, I was looking at valve cover gaskets and once I selected those, they recommended the plug seals and manifold gasket to complete the job efficiently.

Overall, I’ve got nothing negative to say about Z1 and am looking forward to when they bulk up their Toyota/Lexus offerings with their new venture.

 

It's not my intention to throw shade on Z1. Personally, I've experienced moments of good customer service on the phone with Z1, and I don't have any issues with any of the Z1 hardware I've purchased. And yet over the years there have been enough people commenting otherwise about their customer service that you can't help but acknowledge it, however vague that might be.

You know, I wouldn't read too much into it. I think it's great that the Z/G community has access to a solid company like Z1.

 

I've only had good experiences with both Z1 and CZP.

Outside of things like Spark Plugs, I'm too the point where I only buy from them exclusively as they price match as well.

I do call and talk to them on the phone, which I realize is becoming a lost art as most prefer DMs and Email for communication.

 

I agree with Rochester. I didn't intend to talk down on Z1, just wanted to give some justification for why I didn't go for their rotors. Previous experiences with them, especially with OEM or other name-brand parts, was great. And their customer service was helpful with the questions I've had. While I had bad experiences with their branded parts and was left unsatisfied with one of their customer service interactions, I can't deny all the good experiences people have had (including me at times) and how much they've supported the Z/G community over the years.

To share my experience:

• Their name-brand bleed screw caps cracked and fell apart after about 6 months being on the car, while a no-name 100-pack from Amazon is still holding up fine after about 2 years.
• Their single-piece slotted rotor hub coating failed after the bed-in procedure. The coating ended up melting, and the hub rusted anyway. Also, one of the rotors had a coating on the actual braking surface, so 3 developed the typical rust ring while one didn't (doesn't hurt performance, but I care a little bit about cosmetics too ).
• Lastly, I was having an issue with the front passenger brake pad dusting more than the front driver after installing brand new Centric Posi-Quiet (and the dusting followed the pads when I switched them between the drive and passenger sides multiple times). After some back and forth and mentioning that, I was told that it could be the wear pattern and/or pads may dust more than others because of when they were made, and I need to take it to a shop to get it diagnosed further. That diagnosis didn't make sense and didn't sit right with me at the time, especially bc they sort of cater to the DIY crowd IMO (thinking about it again, I understand their perspective better now. They didn't know my background and can't just recommend fixes ***** nilly). In the end, I figured it out and fixed the issue by modifying the brake pad (the pad was out of spec and binds/did not allow it to freely retract back after braking).

Again, my intention for this is just to share my experience. While I was disappointed with my experience 3-4 years ago, there are plenty of people who have had a great experience with them. I personally won't be trusting their name-brand parts anymore, or other companies for that matter, unless they have a good track record. For instance, I only decided on CZP/Paragon rotors because Paragon is known for making high-quality brake rotors, not specifically because I trust CZP's branded parts.

 

Man, I really wanted to add that Cusco Power Brace. My Stillen catback doesn't have that bend at the axle so it won't work for my setup.

 

He spent a lot of time (and curse words) on the angle needed to clear that power brace. The factory 1.7-1.8” midpipe (smallest diameter is near the axle) cleared it with ease, but the 2.5" piping needed work.