I’m looking to buy new roof/windshield trim which appears to have that piece integrated into the molding. Looks like it just got worn out over the years, is very hard and brittle.

Always one more thing…

 

I wanted vibrant red (unicorn) but settled for white. When searching for a 6MT Sedan, you take whatever color it is. My favorite was the 2010 Lakeshore Slate. So pretty.

 

Both of these are super relatable. Felt Malbec Black was a nice homage to Midnight Purple (R34 color). I was very very close to buying one in that color, but the dealer I was working with pulled a last-minute bait and switch (day I was planning to pick the car up, they bumped up the price…several lessons learned).

Since I already sold my old car, I was kinda desperate. So I scanned for another black 6mt in my area at the time, and found the Obsidian Black with Stone interior that I bought. Standard black was fine. It took me a long while to like the light colored seats and dash.

And same thing with pricing. Almost zero room to negotiate on the CPO models. But the new models had a bunch of manufacturer-based incentives like holdbacks. So the price difference for me was like $4k. No brainer

 

Always had a soft spot for blues; I wish they would make a come back. My 2004.5 G35S sedan was Twilight Blue, and in some lighting it almost looked purple.

Blue is my favorite color on the Q50 RS as well (Red is a close second):

 

Agree. My old man taught me years ago to never show attachment to any color of a new car as the dealer will lose all interest in negotiating with you once they know there is an emotional attachment of any kind. This was also the the issue with 6MTs back then as well as there were only 3-4 of them in my state back in 2014, so zero room to negotiate (shipping any car to the dealer also cost them holdback and freight, so the deal isn't as good). I picked my car up for well under invoice (34k?), so as long as it was a RWD Sport model on the lot, I was interested.

Invoice pricing may be making a return as car sales have fallen off the last couple of quarters.

 

Coilovers and arms went in today, angle kit goes in tomorrow then time for an alignment. Can't wait to get this finished up.

 

Already posted this in the "Show off you sedans" thread, but figured since I'd posted the parts here I should show the outcome. Happy enough with the height, but I think I can go a bit lower without causing any significant drivability issues.

 

The Z wheels and yellow calipers are a really good look on the G. Good choices there.

As for lowering it even further... you're already at top of tire, which IMO is too low to be a practical DD for the sedan, depending on your typical drive locations and your tolerance for scraping. My advice would be to drive it for a few months and see how livable it is first.

 

Thank you, I wasn't a fan of the yellow calipers initially but they've grown on me with time. As for the height, I live in an area that's rife with speedbumps which was a consideration when deciding on the initial height. After driving around yesterday I didn't scrape a single one, so I think I can eek out another 1/2" or so with similar results. Not rushing into it just yet though, I'll definitely be driving around as it is for a while.

 

Another .5 inches would be really low. Have you accounted for settling? Over the years, my Swifts settled a good .3-.4 inches past what the marketing drop indicated.

 

Yeah, part of why I didn't just adjust them again yesterday was because I'm going to wait for them to settle. I've had coilovers in the past that settled nearly a 1/2" after a few days. Honestly, the more I drive it as is the more I'm likely to keep it at this height, at least until I go down to 18s. I used to drive a lot of s-chassis and liked to set them up with the frame an inch or less from the ground, however that was many years ago. There's something to be said about not needing to turn around when you see a speedbump.

 

So, I determined these are called drip moldings and Amayama won’t send them due to potential damage during shipping. Ordered them through Z1 - more than double the price of Amayama, Also need 4 clips and fasteners in the windshield area and two near the rear glass. I also added the fender molding where the drip moldings tuck into at the cowl.

There goes my $259 windshield…

 

One wheel at a time :-)

 

That height is probably the lowest I'd like my car to be at, but I'm already scraping a decent amount on the roads I drive. I currently have my car set up at about a 2 finger gap up front and 1.5 finger gap rear (~26.5" and ~26.375" fender to ground). My front lip has a lot more scratches than before (not visible unless under the car), and I've definitely felt my transmission grind over the crappier roads. My tolerance for scraping is relatively low, though.

I'd keep in mind the height difference with passengers if that's a regular occurrence. With two adults in the back, there's almost no gap between the wheels and the fender, and I scrape my transmission, cross member, and exhaust more often, and have started rubbing the rear inner fender.

I'm also worried about changing the suspension geometry too much. I need to do more research on it, but my car does dart a bit when going over bumps. But maybe that's my toe settings. I need to get my car on ramps and see if I want a bumpsteer kit.

Car looks great! I love those wheels, and the yellow brakes add a nice pop of color!

 

All of us that are lowered experience bump steer as the tie rods should be approximately parallel to the lower control arms to minimize bump steer. My understanding is that when they are not parallel with one another, random changes in toe occur, which is that feeling you get when you hit a bump and it feels like the car is directing itself to the left or right.

The adjustable ones allow you to stack washers and change the height of the HEIM joint, creating a levelling effect: https://conceptzperformance.com/spl-...35_p_28787.php

A few other companies make these and I am thinking about adding a set when I upgrade my dampers in 2026 as both changes require an alignment.