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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 12:36 AM
  #166  
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there is a way to reset your ECU without disconnecting battery

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/95WszTnphPI?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 01:17 AM
  #167  
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I've done the pedal thing. Honestly, disconnecting the battery is way easier, especially when it doesn't really clear any of your settings. The only thing you need to do is your windows, which takes 30 seconds. The pedal method can take many tries if you're not exact.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:54 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by G37-Pearl
there is a way to reset your ECU without disconnecting battery

...video...
Thank you.

Originally Posted by sniper27
I've done the pedal thing. Honestly, disconnecting the battery is way easier, especially when it doesn't really clear any of your settings. The only thing you need to do is your windows, which takes 30 seconds. The pedal method can take many tries if you're not exact.
Didn't know that about the G and the window reset. Here's a real simple explanation on how to reset the windows, cross-referenced in case someone is following this discussion through my thread here:

https://www.myg37.com/forums/audio-v...procedure.html
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 12:58 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Finally, I'm none too thrilled with the brackets and single bolts on the brackets. I'm going to be obsessively checking fitment for quite some time, I'm sure of it.
I hear you on the brackets. My driver-side bracket started coming loose after about a month so you'll definitely want to keep an eye on it. You'll start to notice a weird rattling sound when at idle--it's the heat shield vibrating against your fuse box.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 03:56 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by lake985
I hear you on the brackets. My driver-side bracket started coming loose after about a month so you'll definitely want to keep an eye on it. You'll start to notice a weird rattling sound when at idle--it's the heat shield vibrating against your fuse box.
Been thinking about this today. I'm going to re-do those brackets with nyloc nuts and larger washers.

Whoops, time to update my sig line.
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 05:50 PM
  #171  
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Pictures.

And you know what? These worm-clamps are bugging me. I need to get some SS T-bolts.







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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 07:27 PM
  #172  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
Pictures.

And you know what? These worm-clamps are bugging me. I need to get some SS T-bolts.
Very nice look John, Your bay looks so clean. You know that engine cover would really pop if it was sanded smooth as per this method
https://www.myg37.com/forums/3647579-post8.html
then color matched white. Just a thought, as I owe you a few
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Old Aug 6, 2013 | 10:21 PM
  #173  
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Pictures.
congrats john engine bay looks awesome
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #174  
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I disconnected the battery last night. 18 hours later, I reconnected and reset the windows. Strangely enough, the radio presets did *not* disappear. That was odd. Then I drove it around hard for 20 minutes in lower gears and heavy acceleration, to bed-in a new driving behavior.

While that was fun and all, it seems about the same to me. Oh well.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 09:38 AM
  #175  
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Car is coming along nicely!
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 05:21 PM
  #176  
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It's been over a week now since installing the intakes. Here's some follow-up.

I've removed and reinstalled the intakes a number of times trying to tweak the fitment just right. I'm using larger washers and nyloc nuts on the bolts to the heat shields, and that really helped.

The whole thing is really quite stunning looking, IMO. And I'm still very happy with the look. However, I'd like to replace the couplings at the throttle bodies with a couplings that are black instead of dull gray, and use some SealthClamps instead of the SS worm clamps it came with. Also, I wrapped the MAF wiring in larger wire loom, which is a cleaner look than OEM.

My first impressions on power and noise were underwhelming. Butt-dyno said "meh", and the noise was far less than I was hoping for. Pretty disappointed, actually. So I disconnected the battery overnight to reset the ECU. Hooked everything back up the next day, and same-as same-old. Then a few days ago I removed my hood liner, and now the noise seems just about perfect. Much happier.

And just today I swear I have this perception that the car has more grunt and throttle response than I'm used do. IDK what's different or what's taken so long, but is it possible that after resetting the ECU, it's been relearning how I've been driving the car a little harder lately, and adjusting accordingly?

Anyway... one week later, and I'm much happier than I was the day after.

Last edited by Rochester; Aug 14, 2013 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #177  
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I could be crazy, but I swear this car is moody. Sometimes, it drives great. Smooth power. Responsive. How it should be. Sometimes, it would go through one of it's moods and will drive like crap. Jerky, laggy, and unresponsive throttle.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:59 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by sniper27
I could be crazy, but I swear this car is moody. Sometimes, it drives great. Smooth power. Responsive. How it should be. Sometimes, it would go through one of it's moods and will drive like crap. Jerky, laggy, and unresponsive throttle.
I don't think you're crazy, it seems like sometimes the G is just extra bad-as$, like it just has extra pop, having an AT I could see this happening since there are more computer variables involved.

John, glad you're happier w/ the noise-maker, sounds like you're finding its' sweet spot. I think once you get some exhaust mods you'll really be happy.
It really is nice looking in there, and I'd imagine w/ a few clamp upgrades it'll make a nice difference.

I was thinking about trying the hood insulator removal but after hearing that it may be for paint protection I'm having second thoughts. My black paint gets hot enough & coupled w/ the hot VQ I'd better not push it.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 10:36 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by blnewt
I was thinking about trying the hood insulator removal but after hearing that it may be for paint protection I'm having second thoughts. My black paint gets hot enough & coupled w/ the hot VQ I'd better not push it.
The 370Z doesn't have a hood liner. Same company, same engine, same paint. So in that context, the liner is for sound deadening only. Can't see any other explanation.
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Old Aug 15, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by Rochester
The 370Z doesn't have a hood liner. Same company, same engine, same paint. So in that context, the liner is for sound deadening only. Can't see any other explanation.
That's interesting, guess they want the sporty snarl to come through a bit more on the Z, or add pseudo-luxury to the G w/ the quieter tone

Might take it off just to hear the difference, not sure if the wife would appreciate any more volume as it's pretty snarly already
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