If the loctite doesn’t hold I’ll drill the threaded part and use a castle nut and cotter pin. I’ve got a drilling jig around here somewhere.

 

I wonder how common of an issue this is. I’ll have to keep it in mind for when I eventually replace my stock end links.

 

I installed eibach sways front and rear at ~1300 miles. Sold the car around 37K some 8 years later. During that time, never had to retorque the end link or frame bolts for either bar. For that matter didn't have to relube the bushing either. I believe I reused the original hardware on the end links and frame bushings. Did not use a torque wrench, rather torqued them to gudentite using a 1/2" socket.

The loosening is probably a function of the type of roads car is driven on and how much the bars are actually used.

 

Yeah I’ve had the Eibach front bar with the factory endlinks for about 7k now with no issues so far.

 

I don't believe it's the swaybar that causes the issue, but seems to be the aftermarket end-links. I'm guessing the solid heim joints cause extra vibration which eventually causes the nut to start to come loose, I never had the issues when using the OEM end-links with the Hotchkiss sway bars. Only started happening when the OEM end-inks started to wear out and I "upgraded" to the SPL end-links. The Stover style locknuts definitely solved the issue, because they haven't come loose in the last 4 or 5 years or so. Infiniti uses this style locknut elsewhere on the car so I'm not sure why the guys selling the aftermarket end-links aren't using them already.

 

That, or nylocks, or something...

The whiteline are just bigger versions of the OEM link style ball joint, not the heim joint style the SPL uses. I think the bar ends of the Hotchkis might be to blame - they're VERY thick compared to the stock bar. Next time I see the stock bar floating around in the garage I'll measure it.

I have reached out to Whiteline's tech line btw to see what they say. Maybe *whiteline* should include the metal displacement locking nuts.

 

Trying my hand at laying some real carbon, this is my practice piece. I think its coming out pretty nice for a first attempt. Just need to sand this flat, clear coat it and it should be finished.

 

Nice. Post up the finished result, and you may end up having guys wanting you do their steering wheel trim, et al.

 

Nice result. Which restoration kit?

 

Dash repair pt1...


before:




drilled a tiny hole to prevent the crack from spreading:





I loaded a syringe with some vinyl repair putty




First pass:






Might try another coat to get it more level after this dries. I hope this doesn't keep happening. I don't understand why my car has had no dash issues for all this time (it's an 07) and now all of a sudden its cracking so badly. Need to find some UV coating or something.

 

I gave up trying to question life and it's existence on these dash's. You did it correctly though, drilling a hole to prevent the crack from continuing.
It might take 3 tries to get it all level, on your last try leave some excess and the tape so you can glide a blade and cut that excess off.

Welcome to the crack club, vicious cycle, it'll ruin your life, might need rehab after

 

So take 3 for alignment to fix the twitchy car problem - this time at the Infiniti dealer.

0 for 3.

This time they tinkered with the car for 3.5 hours, did two test drives (FI exhaust means no sneaking the car out) and then... nothing. Told me they couldn't do anything because the car is too light for the suspension that's on there, and it's just going to bounce around. Thing is, this happened with the OEM springs, shocks, and swaybars too.

Hotchkis bars, Nismo Z springs, and Koni shocks... not a rare and exotic or incredibly hardcore combo. The car shouldn't twitch like it has a palsy when going down a straight (but not perfectly smooth) road.

I've reached out to Z1 to see if they can fit me in early - if so, I'll be headed down in the early AM Friday to get the car to them. Hopefully someone who actually works on these cars while modified can figure out something... my racing buddy is theorizing that maybe the rear bearings are just enough shot to move when loaded. I can't find any wiggle or play in either end of the car, so...

At least they washed it for me, and didn't charge me for not doing anything. To be fair, the service writer and tech were both up front and honest and if I needed something like the AC recharged or glass replaced I'd happily take it to them. But anything modded is aparently voodoo... which is funny since I saw several modded Q60s there in the shop. Dunno, but I'm getting worn out trying to make my luxury sports car behave like one.

 

At least your dealership is willing to work on your "modded" car. My car has been banned (yes, banned) because of the mods. Long story, won't get into it here... Good luck w/ Z1

 

wow. I haven't taken my car to the dealership in a couple years but when I used to the sales staff and the mechanics were all really excited about my car and the mods.



Or maybe that was just me and no one really cared, LOL.

 

This used to happen to my V35, great tire wear however upon bounds/rebounds I would feel like the rear would want to sway on it's own. I knew there was something off when with bald tires on a freshly paved road during a Florida Sun shower the rear would sway every 10 seconds to the right a bit. New tires minimized the problem however I knew once they started wearing it would do the same. Never got to know what the problem was unfortunately.

I do suspect it's bushing related, I noticed the rear strut bushing on G/Z chassis sees some weird angles upon load and unloads which with it being tightened off load can twist and untwist upon rebound/bound and if you have some weak toe bushings can move your toe as it's bouncing which is why you can never really tell being that tire wear is fine, it's only upon loads/bumps/lane switching.
That's my theory.