Today I hit 90k miles.

I'm actively looking to trade back to an Accord EXL and am seeing trade value around $6,500. Fuel economy and lower miles are the primary reasons plus with the performance of the G I'm lucky I haven't lost my license (also part of fuel economy).

-Eric

 

Took it to the local Infiniti dealership for an oil change and had them pull the maintenance records. What a ghost town, I don't blame consumers. There is absolutely no reason to walk into an Infiniti showroom.

 

While in the Philippines my brother has my car and is building an exhaust: z1 cats, borla and magnaflow equipment. Final weld will be done off the car so don't freak at the tack welds.

Really interested to hear it with custom hemholtz resonators.

 

How much?

 

100 bucks

 

Installed LED parking lights, fog lights, and switchback turn signals. It was hard capturing a picture but they look very clear/white and match very well.

 

It's possible your problems might be contributed to additional grounds not passing by the current sensor. I read multiple people who did ground kits on these cars having these issues.

I ended up making my own grounds from engine to bay but left the OEM one for the battery as it needs to go through the current sensor.

 

Yep, that's exactly what's causing it. I'm still trying to figure out a way to hook the grounding cable up right before the sensor. Taking some of the engine bay apart this summer, planning to add an alternator ground and fix the issue.

 

I think you might be overthinking your grounds.
You should not need an additional battery to bay ground. If worried, you could always buy a brand new one to give you peace of mind.

As far as engine goes I used the two 14mm long bolts in the timing covers to the frame as grounds and the two 10mm holes in the lower oil pan to the frame as well as grounds.

I get 13.8 -14.3 volts depending on operations. The reason I did not ad an additional ground to the ALT is in the past I've had some cars burn these grounds for some reason.
Sanding/cleaning of alternator brackets/mounts will provide grounding cables will never be able to.

 

I decided to tackle the PCV system to a more incognito one. I hate the clutter these systems can produce as far as looks go and PCV location on the VQs make it difficult to make it look decent.

I re routed the system to use the EVAP vacuum source, since the EVAP system has a solenoid right by that area this acts as a check valve so oil does not go into the EVAP.

Pretty satisfied with the looks of it especially when it just was done under $30

 

Cool, thanks for the info. As you can see, I've only started researching the topic.

 

Finally had time to install the Hotchkis sway bars. Was going to replace the endlinks with Moog, but one of the boots was torn.

 

It wasn't today, but on Saturday, I swapped out my top speed muffler delete and replaced it with the top speed y back, which I picked up for $200. This was also paired with a motordyne resonated y pipe, which has been on my car. Needless to say, I love my G again! It is so nice driving without insane amounts of drone. Honestly I'm so used to the booming drone for the past 6 months, that sometimes I am anticipating it and imagining it. Couldn't be happier now. Oh, and here's a few pictures of the old setup vs. new. The muffler delete made the G look terrible.

 

I've also had this setup on my sedan. The Top Speed y back is subtle with stock cats and y pipe. With the Motordyne Y pipe, it deepens the sound and raises the volume to just the right amount. I also added Circuit Werks test pipes and it was still very good. I am glad you are enjoying the car more with this setup.

 

wow, that sounds awesome, perfect sound. I’ve been looking for the proper setup for my G for awhile now, and I’m really liking that.