What did you use to clean the engine bay, and leather? Ive been looking through the detailing forums just havent chosen a solution yet.

 

Pulled the short shifter back out - the shorter direct feel was nice, but there is a little wobble in the fulcrum housing so it was hard to feel when it was actually in gear. The main problem though is that I have some neuropathy in my right arm and the additional effort was giving me a RSI-like numbness.

Tightened up exhaust bolts for the FI RHFC and CBE after 1 week on the car. No major loosening.

In other news I think I finally overstressed my rotor cuff when installing said exhaust.

 

Who makes your STS? One of the notable things about my STS is how absolutely rock solid it is in gear. The shorter throw is cool, but much more than that is the precise, unshaken click into gear.

 

It's an Ebay knockoff of the B&M.

Let me rephrase - once you've found the 'gate' it is rock solid and direct. The shifter sits in a cup around the fulcrum that slides up and down to actuate the reverse lockout - both OEM and aftermarket. In the Ebay version, the 'cup' is a little loose on the fulcrum, so the top of the shift lever throw has some variability on where it is when the bottom end is lined up correctly to go into a gear. Supposed to fill the 'cup' with moly or silicone grease, and I didn't have any on hand at the time (and the center console is still out, so no big deal to add later). The actual effort to push from neutral into gear, especially 5 and 6, was enough that after 10 minutes of driving I was getting numbness in my hand and twinges in my shoulder. No doubt exacerbated by the aforementioned rotator cuff wear.

Now back on the OEM shifter it's butter smooth again. I think I need something halfway between the 40% throw short shifter and full throw oem, if I'm going to go that route. But honestly I don't think the short shifter was making my shifts actually any faster, what with increased effort and initial gate lineup variability. (replace those 4 words with 'slop' - I'm in lawyer mode this AM.)

 

I think the argument about "faster shifts" is mostly a tag-along rationale when people get a short-throw shifter.

As for increased effort... that's nothing I would describe, but I'm also not saying you're not feeling that. If I could toss in a few more double-negatives, I would, LOL.

 

Yeah, the zerks were the only spot I have fitment issues with. Although, I have the TBW under tray, so the fitment for other aftermarket trays may be different. But, as I mentioned, it's a fairly easy fix to just drill a couple of holes were the zerk fittings make contact with the under tray. Here are a couple of pictures of the zerk fittings contacting the TBW under tray. I couldn't find any pics after I drilled the holes in the under tray, but I can always take a couple pics if someone wants me to.

 

Those sway bars are beautiful. Paint is wearing off my Eibachs after all these years.

 

Interesting Adrian, I need to take a photo of mine. Last time I checked, I had like 5 mm more clearance.

 

Thanks for the nice words. I do love the candy apple red powder-coat! I don't really have any experience with Eibach, but the original powder-coating on the Hotchkis sway bars was holding up pretty well before I had them redone... even where the bushings ride on the bar there was very little wear. My powder coating guy actually had to send the bars off to have the old coating removed with a chemical dip.

 

Yeah, I agree that the lower engine mount shouldn't affect the clearance between the sway bar and under tray, since both of those mount to the bottom of the sub frame which wouldn't be affected by the lower engine mounts.

Do you have the same Hotchkis sway bars with the billet mounting brackets, Andy, or do you have the stamped steel brackets? I think the billet mounts are thicker, so that could be the difference.

 

Nice. What brake rotors/pads do you have? In the market for new ones, probably don't have the funds to do Akebano conversion.

 

Now you need to step up your game in the tire department.

 

LOL Savage!!

 

The Engine bay was quite dusty so I used a microfiber towel and some soapy water. For the leather I had used Chemical Guys cleaner and conditioner.

Last night I installed the Bellworks Differential Brace. Car feels extremely solid now, no more drive-train slop when getting on or getting off the throttle hard. Overall the car is smoother to drive, highly recommended for anyone with a 6MT. Next project will be to fill the blown bushing with epoxy as I won't get around to replacing it for quite some time.

I really need to post an introduction and start posting some pictures of the progress.....

 

Yep. All you need in the engine bay is time and elbow grease.


That diff brace is a great mod. Good for you.

However, not sure I would install it without already having secure diff bushings. You're asking a lot out of the brace bolts now.


Agreed. Go for it!