DIY: Reset TPMS Warning by yourself for FREE
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: Frisco, Texas
Just FYI if you live near a Discount Tire Co they will Reset your TPMS for FREE!!
Don't go to the dealer and pay for this.. They actually have better and more advanced Tools that can reset everything for you!!
Also make sure that your spare does not have a sensor..
The sensors at Discount Tire are the SAME OEM Sensors for about 1/4 of the price.. lol
Anyways, I'm just letting Ya'll know this Info..
FYI, I am a MGR at a Discount Tire Store in Texas.
Don't go to the dealer and pay for this.. They actually have better and more advanced Tools that can reset everything for you!!
Also make sure that your spare does not have a sensor..
The sensors at Discount Tire are the SAME OEM Sensors for about 1/4 of the price.. lol
Anyways, I'm just letting Ya'll know this Info..
FYI, I am a MGR at a Discount Tire Store in Texas.
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Joined: Jan 2013
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Okay,,,I can now confirm this works on an 09 Maxima. First, just a little background. Over Christmas my car sat at airport for 4 days and that is just when that really bad cold front moved in down south. When I got back and started car, that is when the TPMS light started blinking for one minute and then steady. Even after properly inflating tires, which of course were low due to cold, light continued. Found this thread and looked for connector for two days and could not find it. Took vehicle by Pep Boys, they checked signal from sensors for no charge and said all were fine. Took it by dealer and of course they said it would be one of the sensors is bad and they would have to hook it up to diagnostics to check it,,,cost $100. No thanks is said,,I will just put a piece of tape over the light. Finally today, thanks to another thread, I found the connector taped to a wire bundle above where the intelligent key unit is connected. You have to partially remove the lower trim panel to see it,,,no way around it. So here is what I did:
1. Removed side trim panel, just a careful pry with a flat head will get it started then it just pops off.
2. Remove panel cover for the fuse box. Inside just to the lower left of fuse box is a phillips head screw holding the lower trim panel,,,remove it.
3. The lower trim panel can now be gently pulled down, no need to disconnect anything,,,,just let it hang. You can get to the TPMS connector with just the left side down but it is pretty cramped,,,easier to just pull down both sides of trim panel.
4. Above the intelligent key connection you will see the wire bundle with the TPMS connector taped to it. Mine was taped up pretty good, the only thing you could see was the connector and maybe a quarter inch of wire, but you can still do procedure without cutting any tape.
5. I then followed the OP's instructions with just one deviation, I started the car and then grounded the connection with the paper clip.
6. After ensuring light would remain flashing after one minute, I drove the car about 2 miles (2 minutes) before light went out,,,and then came back on 1 mile (1 minute) later and stayed solid.
7. I left my car running as i inflated the tires. I checked LF first (33.5) and then proceeded to inflate the tires clockwise around vehicle to match (RF, RR, LR). The light was already out when I returned inside vehicle,,did not even have to drive to put it out.
I apologize for such a long post, just hope maybe this helps someone else.
1. Removed side trim panel, just a careful pry with a flat head will get it started then it just pops off.
2. Remove panel cover for the fuse box. Inside just to the lower left of fuse box is a phillips head screw holding the lower trim panel,,,remove it.
3. The lower trim panel can now be gently pulled down, no need to disconnect anything,,,,just let it hang. You can get to the TPMS connector with just the left side down but it is pretty cramped,,,easier to just pull down both sides of trim panel.
4. Above the intelligent key connection you will see the wire bundle with the TPMS connector taped to it. Mine was taped up pretty good, the only thing you could see was the connector and maybe a quarter inch of wire, but you can still do procedure without cutting any tape.
5. I then followed the OP's instructions with just one deviation, I started the car and then grounded the connection with the paper clip.
6. After ensuring light would remain flashing after one minute, I drove the car about 2 miles (2 minutes) before light went out,,,and then came back on 1 mile (1 minute) later and stayed solid.
7. I left my car running as i inflated the tires. I checked LF first (33.5) and then proceeded to inflate the tires clockwise around vehicle to match (RF, RR, LR). The light was already out when I returned inside vehicle,,did not even have to drive to put it out.
I apologize for such a long post, just hope maybe this helps someone else.
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Joined: Feb 2013
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Has anyone had success with this on a 2008 Nissan Frontier se 4 cylinder?
Mine wouldn't relearn and had to go to the dealer and I followed the instructions for tire pressure settings and driving. It went into learn mode blinking about 5 hz and after about 3 miles I heard a long beep and then went solid again. I previously grounded to wipe out the codes before driving too. Tried this twice and same result. Dealer told me none of the sensors were registered and had to re-program the bcm.
Mine wouldn't relearn and had to go to the dealer and I followed the instructions for tire pressure settings and driving. It went into learn mode blinking about 5 hz and after about 3 miles I heard a long beep and then went solid again. I previously grounded to wipe out the codes before driving too. Tried this twice and same result. Dealer told me none of the sensors were registered and had to re-program the bcm.
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Joined: Nov 2008
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From: Same galaxy...
The activation tool is usually for repair shops that have to do hundreds of resets per month. Can you imagine how much time it would take them to set each tire to the correct pressure and drive out for 10 minutes for every car that needs repair? The tool is much quicker.
This method will work with any set of new TPMS as long as they are the Shrader brand sensors used by Nissan/Infiniti. When you set the car to learning mode, it is actively looking for signals sent by the sensors. When it finds them at the correct pressure, it registers these 4 sensors and remembers it. When you put on a different set of wheels, you will have to do this process again.
Thanks for the tip in Step 7. I've updated the instructions.
This method will work with any set of new TPMS as long as they are the Shrader brand sensors used by Nissan/Infiniti. When you set the car to learning mode, it is actively looking for signals sent by the sensors. When it finds them at the correct pressure, it registers these 4 sensors and remembers it. When you put on a different set of wheels, you will have to do this process again.
Thanks for the tip in Step 7. I've updated the instructions.
Can you please tell me if this ONLY works if the TPMS are Shrader? I need to know before I purchase the TPMS.
Also where is the OBD located for 09G37x coupe?
Thanks!
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Ontario Canada
I'm looking to put new vossen wheels for the summer, can I take off the tpms off the OEM wheels an mount them on my Vossen's? Or will I need a low profile one since the wheels have different specs
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Joined: Mar 2013
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I'm getting the same issue a few others were getting. I have a 2009 Nissan Murano.
Before trying any of this, when I started the car, the TPMS light would blink for 60 seconds and then stay solid. I set the tire pressures as directed here, then hit the start button twice (car on engine off), then shorted the connector. At that point, the TPMS light started blinking indefinitely.
So, I can get the TPMS light to blink in learning mode, but as soon as I start the car, it goes solid after like 1 second. No matter what I do, it just goes solid. What's also interesting is that the light is now solid when I start it instead of blinking for 60 seconds like it used to, so it seems like I did something at least. But I'm not totally there yet because the light has not gone off even after filling the tires back to 35psi and driving around a few miles.
Before trying any of this, when I started the car, the TPMS light would blink for 60 seconds and then stay solid. I set the tire pressures as directed here, then hit the start button twice (car on engine off), then shorted the connector. At that point, the TPMS light started blinking indefinitely.
So, I can get the TPMS light to blink in learning mode, but as soon as I start the car, it goes solid after like 1 second. No matter what I do, it just goes solid. What's also interesting is that the light is now solid when I start it instead of blinking for 60 seconds like it used to, so it seems like I did something at least. But I'm not totally there yet because the light has not gone off even after filling the tires back to 35psi and driving around a few miles.
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Victory!
I got it!!!! Light is now off!!! 
So, I think the trick is that for some cars, you have to actually ground the connector AFTER the engine is running. My car has a push-button start, so I don't know if that makes a difference. The first time, I tried doing this after I had already filled the tires back to 35 psi. The TPMS light went blinking as I drove for about 3 miles, then it gave a loud ding and stayed constant on.
Then today, I set the pressures back to 36/33/30/27. I started the engine and immediately tapped the paperclip several times against some metal. The light started blinking. I then drove a very roundabout path to the grocery store. I started to get worried that it was just going to ding at me again, but finally after 5.5 miles, it went off! What's crazy is that it didn't come back on as I expected. I was almost to the store, so I just parked and filled all tires back to 34 psi. I got my groceries, drove home, and the light stayed off.
In summary: if you ground the TPMS connector and the light blinks and then goes solid as soon as you start the engine, try waiting to ground the connector until AFTER you start the engine. The light should remain flashing for several miles. If after that, the light dings at you instead of going off, I believe it means your tire pressures are not close enough to the necessary "learning mode" settings. I got so fed up in this process that I bought a digital gauge to make sure my readings were accurate. I used the Accutire one you can get off Amazon for like $11.
One final note: it took me like 25 min just to find the right connector. I kept looking upwards and found several of them but none that had the single white wire. Eventually, I looked lower and found it hidden wrapped in tape. Good photo of that here: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0Betty/038.jpg
Thanks again for sharing this information. Love that I can do this myself now.
So, I think the trick is that for some cars, you have to actually ground the connector AFTER the engine is running. My car has a push-button start, so I don't know if that makes a difference. The first time, I tried doing this after I had already filled the tires back to 35 psi. The TPMS light went blinking as I drove for about 3 miles, then it gave a loud ding and stayed constant on.
Then today, I set the pressures back to 36/33/30/27. I started the engine and immediately tapped the paperclip several times against some metal. The light started blinking. I then drove a very roundabout path to the grocery store. I started to get worried that it was just going to ding at me again, but finally after 5.5 miles, it went off! What's crazy is that it didn't come back on as I expected. I was almost to the store, so I just parked and filled all tires back to 34 psi. I got my groceries, drove home, and the light stayed off.
In summary: if you ground the TPMS connector and the light blinks and then goes solid as soon as you start the engine, try waiting to ground the connector until AFTER you start the engine. The light should remain flashing for several miles. If after that, the light dings at you instead of going off, I believe it means your tire pressures are not close enough to the necessary "learning mode" settings. I got so fed up in this process that I bought a digital gauge to make sure my readings were accurate. I used the Accutire one you can get off Amazon for like $11.
One final note: it took me like 25 min just to find the right connector. I kept looking upwards and found several of them but none that had the single white wire. Eventually, I looked lower and found it hidden wrapped in tape. Good photo of that here: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0Betty/038.jpg
Thanks again for sharing this information. Love that I can do this myself now.
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Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 20
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I got it!!!! Light is now off!!!
So, I think the trick is that for some cars, you have to actually ground the connector AFTER the engine is running. My car has a push-button start, so I don't know if that makes a difference. The first time, I tried doing this after I had already filled the tires back to 35 psi. The TPMS light went blinking as I drove for about 3 miles, then it gave a loud ding and stayed constant on.
Then today, I set the pressures back to 36/33/30/27. I started the engine and immediately tapped the paperclip several times against some metal. The light started blinking. I then drove a very roundabout path to the grocery store. I started to get worried that it was just going to ding at me again, but finally after 5.5 miles, it went off! What's crazy is that it didn't come back on as I expected. I was almost to the store, so I just parked and filled all tires back to 34 psi. I got my groceries, drove home, and the light stayed off.
In summary: if you ground the TPMS connector and the light blinks and then goes solid as soon as you start the engine, try waiting to ground the connector until AFTER you start the engine. The light should remain flashing for several miles. If after that, the light dings at you instead of going off, I believe it means your tire pressures are not close enough to the necessary "learning mode" settings. I got so fed up in this process that I bought a digital gauge to make sure my readings were accurate. I used the Accutire one you can get off Amazon for like $11.
One final note: it took me like 25 min just to find the right connector. I kept looking upwards and found several of them but none that had the single white wire. Eventually, I looked lower and found it hidden wrapped in tape. Good photo of that here: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0Betty/038.jpg
Thanks again for sharing this information. Love that I can do this myself now.
So, I think the trick is that for some cars, you have to actually ground the connector AFTER the engine is running. My car has a push-button start, so I don't know if that makes a difference. The first time, I tried doing this after I had already filled the tires back to 35 psi. The TPMS light went blinking as I drove for about 3 miles, then it gave a loud ding and stayed constant on.
Then today, I set the pressures back to 36/33/30/27. I started the engine and immediately tapped the paperclip several times against some metal. The light started blinking. I then drove a very roundabout path to the grocery store. I started to get worried that it was just going to ding at me again, but finally after 5.5 miles, it went off! What's crazy is that it didn't come back on as I expected. I was almost to the store, so I just parked and filled all tires back to 34 psi. I got my groceries, drove home, and the light stayed off.
In summary: if you ground the TPMS connector and the light blinks and then goes solid as soon as you start the engine, try waiting to ground the connector until AFTER you start the engine. The light should remain flashing for several miles. If after that, the light dings at you instead of going off, I believe it means your tire pressures are not close enough to the necessary "learning mode" settings. I got so fed up in this process that I bought a digital gauge to make sure my readings were accurate. I used the Accutire one you can get off Amazon for like $11.
One final note: it took me like 25 min just to find the right connector. I kept looking upwards and found several of them but none that had the single white wire. Eventually, I looked lower and found it hidden wrapped in tape. Good photo of that here: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0Betty/038.jpg
Thanks again for sharing this information. Love that I can do this myself now.
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Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2
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I got it!!!! Light is now off!!!
So, I think the trick is that for some cars, you have to actually ground the connector AFTER the engine is running. My car has a push-button start, so I don't know if that makes a difference. The first time, I tried doing this after I had already filled the tires back to 35 psi. The TPMS light went blinking as I drove for about 3 miles, then it gave a loud ding and stayed constant on.
Then today, I set the pressures back to 36/33/30/27. I started the engine and immediately tapped the paperclip several times against some metal. The light started blinking. I then drove a very roundabout path to the grocery store. I started to get worried that it was just going to ding at me again, but finally after 5.5 miles, it went off! What's crazy is that it didn't come back on as I expected. I was almost to the store, so I just parked and filled all tires back to 34 psi. I got my groceries, drove home, and the light stayed off.
In summary: if you ground the TPMS connector and the light blinks and then goes solid as soon as you start the engine, try waiting to ground the connector until AFTER you start the engine. The light should remain flashing for several miles. If after that, the light dings at you instead of going off, I believe it means your tire pressures are not close enough to the necessary "learning mode" settings. I got so fed up in this process that I bought a digital gauge to make sure my readings were accurate. I used the Accutire one you can get off Amazon for like $11.
One final note: it took me like 25 min just to find the right connector. I kept looking upwards and found several of them but none that had the single white wire. Eventually, I looked lower and found it hidden wrapped in tape. Good photo of that here: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0Betty/038.jpg
Thanks again for sharing this information. Love that I can do this myself now.
So, I think the trick is that for some cars, you have to actually ground the connector AFTER the engine is running. My car has a push-button start, so I don't know if that makes a difference. The first time, I tried doing this after I had already filled the tires back to 35 psi. The TPMS light went blinking as I drove for about 3 miles, then it gave a loud ding and stayed constant on.
Then today, I set the pressures back to 36/33/30/27. I started the engine and immediately tapped the paperclip several times against some metal. The light started blinking. I then drove a very roundabout path to the grocery store. I started to get worried that it was just going to ding at me again, but finally after 5.5 miles, it went off! What's crazy is that it didn't come back on as I expected. I was almost to the store, so I just parked and filled all tires back to 34 psi. I got my groceries, drove home, and the light stayed off.
In summary: if you ground the TPMS connector and the light blinks and then goes solid as soon as you start the engine, try waiting to ground the connector until AFTER you start the engine. The light should remain flashing for several miles. If after that, the light dings at you instead of going off, I believe it means your tire pressures are not close enough to the necessary "learning mode" settings. I got so fed up in this process that I bought a digital gauge to make sure my readings were accurate. I used the Accutire one you can get off Amazon for like $11.
One final note: it took me like 25 min just to find the right connector. I kept looking upwards and found several of them but none that had the single white wire. Eventually, I looked lower and found it hidden wrapped in tape. Good photo of that here: http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f2...0Betty/038.jpg
Thanks again for sharing this information. Love that I can do this myself now.
The key is to start the car and make TPM light go blinking by shortening the single white wire connector. I took me probably 15 attempts (engine ON -shorten wire 5-6-7times-engine OFF), light just kept shining solid. But when it finally caught & started blinking - I deflated tires to 35/33/30/27 and light went off after 5 minute drive.
THANK you!!!
Last edited by peter norton; May 25, 2013 at 10:28 AM.
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Joined: May 2013
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From: Calgary
I have problem with my TPMS, I have light on solid all the time, when I do KOEO and tap wire few 5-6 times to metal TPMS light start blinking, soon as I start engine light stop blinking, any suggestions?
Looking for a lil help. I purchased a set of aftermarket wheels/tires and mounted a set of aftermarket Orange TPMS sensors, part number SET-TPMS-Orange-SCA01B.
I have read all 22 pages of this thread and found lots of helpful information regarding my issue. First issue I had was not being able to get into relearn mode.. from reading I was jacked into the wrong part of the plug. Second issue was after starting the car tpms light went solid after two blinks. More reading and solution was to start the car first, engage 5 taps and voila.. I'm in learning mode.
Steps I've done:
1) Set tire pressures to page 1 direction
2) Find a nice long open road, no traffic.
3) Start the car and immediately enter tpms learning mode via the 5 tap method.
4a) Drive off right away and stay above 25mph.
4b) Wait two minutes, then drive off and stay above 25mph.
What is happening is that same as others have experienced... after a short drive my light goes from blinking to solid and a long beep.
With some reading I have seen others didn't have their tire pressures set at what page 1 of this thread describe so I double checked and I should be good. This is done on the dummy pencil stick type gauge as well as the one attached to the hose that some gas stations have. I'm 1 step away from going and getting a digital gauge. I don't see any trouble codes either as some have experienced.
Anyone else have a solution or something I may have overlooked? Other than the digital gauge purchase and trying again I'm ready to go give money to the dealer.... yuck.
I have read all 22 pages of this thread and found lots of helpful information regarding my issue. First issue I had was not being able to get into relearn mode.. from reading I was jacked into the wrong part of the plug. Second issue was after starting the car tpms light went solid after two blinks. More reading and solution was to start the car first, engage 5 taps and voila.. I'm in learning mode.
Steps I've done:
1) Set tire pressures to page 1 direction
2) Find a nice long open road, no traffic.
3) Start the car and immediately enter tpms learning mode via the 5 tap method.
4a) Drive off right away and stay above 25mph.
4b) Wait two minutes, then drive off and stay above 25mph.
What is happening is that same as others have experienced... after a short drive my light goes from blinking to solid and a long beep.
With some reading I have seen others didn't have their tire pressures set at what page 1 of this thread describe so I double checked and I should be good. This is done on the dummy pencil stick type gauge as well as the one attached to the hose that some gas stations have. I'm 1 step away from going and getting a digital gauge. I don't see any trouble codes either as some have experienced.
Anyone else have a solution or something I may have overlooked? Other than the digital gauge purchase and trying again I'm ready to go give money to the dealer.... yuck.
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Joined: Sep 2011
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I have sucessfully reset my TPMS light last year using the info I got from this DYI... HOWEVER, this year after changing my winter tires back to the summer ones it didn't work. Bottom line: I went to a Nissan dealer who tried to do this with a scanner from inside the car (but it didn't work)... They eventually went around 2 all four tires with the tool, and the light went out. Problem solved...for now. I'm not sure what'll happen in the fall for the next tire changeover! 8^(
Quick update on my situation. I purchased a $30 portable air inflation device fro. Canadian tire which has a digital display on it. The gas station a d pen style gauge are not as accurate as a nice digital of course and this was my issue. With pressures digitally corrected to the right pressures I drove maybe 1km before the light went out and half that for it to come back. Pressures re adjusted and no more light!!!