As others have mentioned - I needed to do this reset and was trying to use a pencil air gauge but I'm certain it wasn't accurate enough. Bought a good quality gauge - set the pressures as stated and did the reset first time.

Accurate tire pressure seems critical to make this work.

Thanks OP for this thread!

 

This worked for me! After a couple hours trying and trying, I tried this method and at first got the long beep, so I went and checked the pressures which were slightly off. Reset the pressures, reset learning mode, and soon i was light free and filled back up. Thanks to all who contributed on this post!!

 

Hey all, so I recently tried this and didn't have any luck I'm not looking to re-learn new sensors just clear the error with my stock ones. I disconnected the battery a few weeks ago while doing a stereo upgrade and when I re-connected the batt. the light flashes for about a minute when I start the car and goes solid. I can't even pull any "codes" from the TPMS. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Not sure but it is possible your system needs to re-learn the tpms. Are you using a digital gauge? I would do the entire step by step process using a digital gauge and tell us the results. If you're using a pen style or one at your local gas station the pressures were probably incorrect as that was my issue.

 

I have a question... the part number for my sensors are 40700-1LAOB(i have a 2013 g37x sedan). Someone on the forum is selling his sensors but his part number is 40700-1LAOC(2011 g37). Will those sensor work for my car if i take them to the dealer to reset them or can i do it myself so i dont have the light going off in the dash.

 

Same story.
I reset TPMS on my Murano 09 last spring, but this fall it took me 2 days and probably 5 hours and 100 of unsuccessful attempts - system just didn't go into learning mode.
Finally I got the light blinking & re-learnt new sensors.

Reasons for 99 failed attempts:
I tested different metal parts in the foot well - not all of them are grounded and if they are - bad contact is still possible. So I had to rig permanent wire from OBD "single white wire" to the cigarette lighter outlet to shorten wire. It gave me a chance to do the job right - not crouching in the foot well, but sitting and looking at the dash which helped a lot to catch the moment when light finally started blinking (ON-OFF cycle ~ 1 second - I was waiting for a slow blinking which never happened ). It is easy to under do or over do the shortening process - and light goes solid again.

Tire pressure should be bang on. My first learning drive went bad because pressure was not accurate 35-33-30-27 and light went solid after 5 min drive. I adjusted pressure with different gauge and finally got the light OFF!

some pictures:

 

+1, also '12 xS... will continue searching...

 

Thanks, Modme

It worked on the very first time...

2010 G-37s Coupe

 

Thanks, Modme for this thread.

I read the entire 23 page thread a couple of nights ago.

One thing struck me that I have not seen discussed.

Like myself, many of the posters prefer to run a set of winter wheels and tires in the winter, and another set of wheels and tires the rest of the year, on their cars.

I noted what may, or may not, be a relevant pattern in the failure versus success reports.

Many of those who had success followed this pattern: success in getting the system into re-learn mode ( slow, steady blinking for a two minute plus time period ), drive until the system indicated it had learned the tires but there was a low pressure condition on at least one tire, stop at service station and air up tires until they were all within tolerance, system light goes out and stays out for days indicating everything is good.

By contrast, at least some of those who reported failure came home before they aired up, and/or were unable to get the system to transition from re-learning mode ( slow, steady blinking ) to low tire pressure indicator, and then to normal. Others reporting failure indicated it went from slow steady blinking to an unexpected condition without ever leaving the drive way.

The question that came to my mind was where was the second, third, etc. set of tires with sensors ?

Were they at home, within radio range, of the car when in re-learning mode ?

Were they at home, within radio range, when the driver returned home to eliminate the under inflation error.

Were they riding around in the trunk?

Were there any tires with sensors installed - over and above the four installed on the car that needed re-learned ( other tires stored in a garage, stored in a trunk, or on another car ) that were in radio range, and might have one, or more, sensors in a tire with at least one tire pressure matching one of the four specific pressures the system is looking for in re-learn mode ?

Same question regarding a tire, with a sensor, that might have been previously registered with this car, but was now dismounted, but within radio range ?

I can only speculate on the answers to these question, but those posters who were experiencing these failures would know the answers.

 

IS there a way to disable this whole TPMS...? I think its worthless, I am fine with manually checking my tire pressure with a tire pressure gage!!

 

Two questions:

1. I have a 2011 G37xS Coupe. Just got a set of snow tires and wheels from Tirerack along with the TPMS sensors. Can't seem to find the TPMS interface plug. Doesn't appear to be anywhere along the OBD II wire harness. Anyone with a 2011 or newer G37 been able to find the interface plug.

2. Took it to Firestone to get the TPMS reset. Tech said he couldn't detect the the sensors. Is it because he doesn't have the right scan tool/is this something only the dealer can do?

Thanks in advance to anyone that can help.

 

Take a picture of the valve stem area of one of the wheels and post it here.

 

Will do.

Out of curiosity, what will that tell you that will help you to answer those questions?

 

ok I have not seen this scenario yet.

I followed the first post to a T! however, instead of flashing, the TPMS light just went off completely….awesome right?? NO, I took it for a test drive, and it came back on, I went back home and put the tires all at 35psi, went for another test drive, still on….any guesses?

 

For my recently purchased Nissan '07 Altima V6 Stick...
I set tire pressure to 36psi_LF,33psi_RF,30psi_RR,27psi_LR (at least 3psi apart is probably the key to resetting -- not absolute psi precision).
For the Altima, I put a kink in the end of the paperclip and rotated it to be sure it could contact the metal inside the connector (was difficult without the kink).
The white TPMS connector is in fuse area wrapped kind of snug to another cable.
Put paperclip into TPMS white connector (find and use the opening that has the metal contacts inside it).
With a voltmeter, measure 12V to the ground you'll use to short to when the dash is lit up (ignition ON) to be sure there's going to be a good connection (I used the metal bracket the fusebox was fastened to).
If I didn't measure with the voltmeter, this definitely wouldn't have worked for me because the paperclip did not easily make connection in the Altima.
Put ignition to ON without starting engine and within 10 seconds, tap wire that's fastened to the paperclip 5 times to the ground.
Light should blink continuously without going out (at the same rate as when it blinks for only 1 minute during normal fault indication -- it was not slower so I think you won't see a difference if it usually blinks when you start up). Note: In my case, I previously had unintentionally cleared the fault blinking by tapping to ground after the fault light had stopped blinking after 60 seconds (I had followed incorrect advice to wait for the blinking to stop before tapping 6 times). And because tapping this late did not cause the light to blink slowly I decided to hold the wire to ground while turning ON and OFF the ignition because that's supposed to clear faults and I figured whatever I had done to stop the blinking wasn't right so maybe clearing would be a good idea. And although the lit fault light didn't blink at start-up, it never went out after driving -- so it needed to go through the real reset process. By the way, this might be a good procedure for everybody because it made it real easy to know that correctly tapping 5 times within 10 seconds does start the reset process when the light begins blinking again. However, after using the incorrect procedure I had new tires put on and the computer reader Sears had wouldn't read my Tire Pressure controller/computer and I don't know whether it could have read it before the procedure -- meaning, is it possible there's a way to make communication stop between the car's TPMS controller and a reader?

After the 5 taps made the light blink, then without turning OFF, I started the car and drove. And after about 10 minutes, the light went out for about 30-60 seconds and then came back on to indicate that my tires were at the wrong pressure.
In my case, I didn't turn off engine (that might not have been important) and I pumped tires to normal pressure with portable inflator and drove for a few more minutes.
And then the best part... the TPMS light went out and stayed out (sensors might need replacing anyway at some point if this is going to be an ongoing issue).
Good luck.