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Ok, so guys I did this for my aftermarket wheels and it worked. But now for my stock wheels after I grounded it and the light flashes and I go for a drive, like 10 minutes alter the light goes from flashing to solid. And sometimes it makes a beeping sound. Can anyone help me please?
I can't believe I am the only one that has been at this for months and still cannot find this mysterious TPMS wire/plug. I consider myself to be pretty handy especially working on cars, but I am not sure why I cannot find this plug.
I have removed all panels below the steering wheel and see nothing connected to the obd2 wire loom. Both male and female sections.
Hopefully these pics would help so you all can prolly help.
Btw, car is a 2011 G37S sedan.
Nothing by the firewall
Not sure what this plug is for, but it has two wires.
Would setting tire pressures to how described on first page work by just resetting ecu instead of using TPMS plug??
Well, after reading through this thread a couple of times,
I'm of the opinion that having the right tool for the job can be worthwhile.
It may be worth it in time and effort as there is no playing around with pressure & driving to trigger a relearn cycle. Especially if there is more than one car in the household that has multiple wheelsets.
"The QuickSet downloads the IDs that are stored in your vehicle’s ECU. The PC based software allows you to enter the IDs from your alternate set of tires into the QuickSet. You must have your alternate set of IDs available (from a TPMS decoder tool such as the ATEQ VT30, provided by a garage, an invoice or on the sensor itself). Once the QuickSet is updated with the alternate set of IDs, you are able to upload these to your vehicle’s ECU through the OBDII port."
And I think there are a bunch of TPMS apps for smart phones that will read the the IDs.
Just a thought. I'll let you know if I go that route. I've got 2 cars to reset plus a third that needs new TPMS.
Does anyone have a suggestion for 2011+ model years where the plug is not in the described location? Where do we find the plug and how is TPMS learning mode initiated?
Been messing with my 09 for a week now, and still can't get it to work right. I think I will just buy the damn tool and be done with it. I wouldn't be surprised if I lost my original TPMS ID codes while screwing around with grounding the terminal.
I have an email in to Neal at TireRack to see if I can get my TPMS ID codes for the sensors they mounted to my winter/tire combo.
At least the Ateq will store the settings, once I find out what the sensor Id's are.. ugh.
I just received my ATEQ TPM QuickSet tool. Paid $119 shipped on ebay.
Works as as advertised.
It took 10 mins to install the software and drivers on my PC.
(Probably 5 mins plus c5 mins calling tech support for the correct drivers... download them from VT55 OBDII TPMS Diagnostic Tool - ATEQ TPMS Tools Get the VT55 drivers they work on modern versions of windows)
It took 2 mins to prep the tool on my laptop, 2 mins to download the current TPMS codes from my car, 2 mins to upload them to my PC, 2 mins to type in the new TPMS codes from my other tire set. (Supplied by my retailer) and 2 minutes to push the new codes back on my car.
The check tire light went right out and stayed out.
Interesting features:
-The app store 2 sets of wheels for each vehicle
-The app stores 4 vehicles worth of data on your PC
-The app stores 5 wheels, for each of the two wheesets, for each car. (2x(4 wheels + Spare))
-The app can print out all the codes for your wheelsets so you have a hardcopy.
You can use the tool to pull down your current codes from the car, even if you don't know them.
But if you DON'T have the codes for your alternate set, you will still have to obtain them.
You can either force your car to relearn them using the steps from the OP, or take them to a wheel shop that has an electronic code reader, they can force your wheels to identify themselves and collect the codes. They do not need to be on the car to read the codes with the right tool.(Expensive)
I have no idea how much the shop would charge to read your codes or reset the car but I can say if you have the codes, or are able to get them using the grounding method in the OP, this thing is super easy and super fast to use.
Once you have the codes for both wheelsets it takes probably 5 mins total to swap them in the car.
I can't get the sensor Id's from Tire Rack. Apparently I will have to take it to a shop initially to get this done. What a pita!!!!!!!!!!
I feel for you. CarID labeled my 4 wheels but did not on my daughters set. Ordered both wheelsets within a week from each other.
They said I'm on my own to get the codes, even though the shipping page has spots on it for TPMS IDs.
I'll try the grounding method once. If no luck I'm not going to waste time messing around, I'll go to the local shop, hopefully they won't charge too much.
I'll probably just buy both tools. One that activates the sensors, and the other to store the codes. I just can't stand the thought of taking my car somewhere. I'm always willing to buy tools to get the job done if I have to.
I'll probably just buy both tools. One that activates the sensors, and the other to store the codes. I just can't stand the thought of taking my car somewhere. I'm always willing to buy tools to get the job done if I have to.
From what I've seen it can be expensive.
The more practically priced activators only activate the TPMS sensors. They don't read the codes.
The tools that read the codes from the activated sensors are also expensive.
Then there is the programming tool (above).
So you're looking at $300-400 easy.
OTOH they do have combined tools. Some that activate and read, but do not program, and some that do it all.
From what I've seen they range from $600 for activate & Read to $1000 for activate-read-write.
Once you have the codes you pretty much won't need anything but the $119 Quickset code writer.
It can also read the codes for the set currently programmed in the car's ODB-II.
It's just any new set of sensors you have to obtain codes for.
For my money, if I can't get the codes from the vendor, or from the grounding trick, then I'd pay the shop ($60?)for the one-time code-read/reset. and use the Quickset from then on.
okay guys, I am in a very very bad situation :/
I need help :/
I swapped wheels from my cousin's G37 sedan (2013 model) to my g37 sedan (2012 model) as the tpms sensors were working on his car, they didnt work on mine. So i wanted to do the reset using the DIY in this post.
Unaware / not cautious i only found one port right beside the obd connector and that had two wires not one. I am having a bad time now a days and i plugged pin in white-ish wire and grounded it like its in diy. first time i grounded, there was a very small spark. I thought its normal, anyway, my tpms are of course not reset but i have another issue now.
My "driving seat" wont adjust, I put it way back so i can get in the obd area. none of the adjustment works, back or bottom. mirrors not moving, cabin light not working, steering tilting motor not working.. all at once. all driver profile items are not working.
In my car's setting, automatic steering tilt and put seat back when exiting the car feature disappeared.
passenger side seat is working normally, moves like it should. Only the driver side have this issue. the whole set of features got disappeared.
I think i killed a fuse or something, i cant possible burn all these with 1 spark can I ?
i will be taking the car to the dealer, i hope i get this fixed :/ what the hell...
I think you're on the right track. Check the fuses at the driver side kick panel. When you remove it, on the inside it'll identify which circuit each fuse is for. Look for those that relate to the items that don't work. That's the fuse you blew most likely. There's another fuse box (or two) under the hood too, one near the battery.
the only related fuse in the kick fuse box is the cabin light thats 4th one from the bottom left. (cabin light isnt working)
on the battery side box there is no seat / mirror setting fuse. on the other side of the engine, there is another fuse box. that box explicitly says "seat" and when i opened it, there was NO hardware in it except anti-theft relay...
04-14-2015, 06:38 PM
