1 - Yes, you always want to let your sealant cure about 24 hours before topping it with a wax.

2 - Yes, but you want to wait the 24 hours again between coats for maximum benefit. Applying a second coat prior to the full cure time, the main benefit is just even coverage.

3 - Yes, but waxes are typically closer to 12 hours for proper cure time (each product is different though)

4 - Dodo Juice Diamond White or Light Fantastic work great on lighter colored vehicles. I haven't used Supernatural on a white colored vehicle yet so I cannot compare the two, but I'm sure it'll look stunning. If you give it a shot be sure to keep us posted on what you think of it.

Tire dressing - Consider either the Blackfire Long Lasting Tire Gel or Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel. Both should last longer than the PBW Bold 'n Bright, the Blackfire offering slightly more gloss than the Opti-Bond.

Leather protection and cleaner - I haven't used the Autoglym product so I cannot compare it to ones we offer. For maintenance I usually turn to PBW Leather Stuff or Optimum Protectant Plus. Both will clean and UV protect in one step and leave behind a matte finish. For deeper cleaning or restoration, I turn to the Leatherique products. Here's an example of what Leatherique can do.

Polish / Compound - Many detailing and professionals turn to the Menzerna line of polishes. They are specifically designed to be used with a rotary buffer, but still work well on random orbitals. Optimum is a good line to use with a PC due to long work times and less dusting than Menzerna. Personally, I haven't found a polish that finishes better than Menzerna when used properly though. Menzerna PO203S / PO85RD is a top combo.

Sealant - For a longer lasting sealant that's easy to use, check out Blackfire Wet Diamond with Polycharger technology. The PC helps the polymers cross link better for a tighter and more durable bond to your paint. Klasse HGSG is one of our longest lasting sealants, but as you said, the problem is how difficult it is to remove.

Carnabau Wax - Bang for the buck, PBW Natty's Blue is an excellent option on darker colored vehicles. While it won't be as easy to remove as Souveran, you can't beat it for under $20. Another sleeper bang for the buck wax that is pretty impressive is Chemical Guys 50/50 wax. While the price of it skews the value, you get 16oz of product instead of 8oz or less like other waxes. Dollar per ounce, this may be one of our best performing waxes.

Quick detailing - Consider Chemical Guys Speed Wipe or Optimum Instant Detailer. Both are super easy to use, wipe away streak free and leave behind a nice layer of gloss and depth.

Microfiber towel - I like our Ultra Plush Towels for last step product removal and quick detailing. They have a nice plush side to them and I've had good luck with them on some of the softest paint. If you really want a plush towel, consider a couple reTHICKulous towels. They are the plushest towels I've seen, but make sure you wash them prior to use as they shed a decent amount prior to their first wash.

Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

Cheers,

George

 

Last set of questions George:

1) I'm thinking of going through this process next time when I detail the car. Keep in mind I do not have a buffer so I need products that can be used by hand.
a) wash/dry the car (I use PBW Super Slick and Suds)
b) clay using a fine grade clay bar
c) quick wash/dry again
d) apply dodo's lime prime pre wax cleanser (by hand...if possible?)
e) apply Menz FMJ and allow time to cure
f) wash/dry again
g) apply dodo's light fantastic or diamond white

2) are the steps in the right order? are all the products okay to use by hand?

 

Everything you have listed out would work fine. If your car is garaged between the FMJ curing and before applying the Dodo Juice wax, you may be able to get away with just using a quick detailer instead a full re-wash.

If you haven't ordered products already, you could switch the Dodo Lime Prime with Chemical Guys EZ Creme Glaze (which happens to be on sale this month). If anything FMJ will work better with an acrylic based prep product.

Other than that everything looks good to go.

Good luck, keep us posted on how things turn out for you.

Cheers,

George

 

Noticed a few areas that are having rust problems on my vehicle. The holes in the lugnuts are getting rust from the lugs after washing. And on my driver side door, there is rust on the paint by the edge of the door sill near the fender. How do I deal with the lugs causing rust on the wheels. And for the door sill, the paint that is rusted from the door rubbing on the edge.

 

The only way I know how to prevent the rust from spreading on the paint is to clean up the rust and touch up the area. Since it was caused by the door rubbing, chances are it'll just be a matter of time before it happened again. I'd bring it up to your dealership and see what they say.

For the lug nuts, you could remove them, polish them up to remove the rust, then as your washing your car, make sure you blow out the lug nuts with a blower, compressed air, etc. to help minimize the rust from forming. Also, with the lug nuts off as your cleaning up the rust, after cleaning, protect them with some sort of sealant, which will help provide a barrier of protection from the water causing the lug nuts to rust.

Hope this helps.

George

 

George,
Whats a good product to use to get rid of road tar? I'm just assuming it's road tar cause it's black and is slightly sticky to touch. It's on my side skirts and stuck to my clear bra. I tried to use a QD to get it off but it just seemed to smear it.

 

Chemical Guys Bug & Tar Remover is what you are looking for. Safe for your Clearbra as well.

 

Thanks BlackJack!

 

Hi,
I have asked a similar question before; I learnt more but got more confused. So, I am hoping to clear up a bit more. I am looking for a detailer to do new car protection, so I have the following question.

1) What should new car protection normally include? What is the recommendated services?

2) My car hasn't really been washed yet. No visible swirl mark or any thing as such. Since polishing will reduce the clear coat, is it absolutely necessary in this situation?

Your advice is much appreciated.

Thanks,

 

Thanks for the reply, that should do the trick

For new car preps what I recommend is the following:

Wash > Clay (with fine grade clay) > Seal

You can skip the polishing since you said there are no visible swirls yet. Some people will opt to use a non-abrasive paint cleaner prior to using a sealant, but that's optional.

Seal your wheels (easy to do with Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant)
UV protect your interior (easy to do on your own with 303 Aerospace Protectant)
Fabric guard your carpets (easy to do with 303 High Tech Fabric Guard)

Those are some of the main things I'd do on a new car. Basically you want to go around your vehicle and ask yourself, can this surface be protected? If yes, find a product that works to protect it. It's 100x easier to properly maintain your vehicle from the start than it is to correct future problems down the road.

Pick up a spray on wax, like Optimum Car Wax to use after your maintenance washes if you're looking for something easy to apply and remove and give your paint some additional protection.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with. Enjoy the new car!

George

 

George,
Just put in my order. Thanks for ALL the info and your diligence to answering questions in this thread!

 

Thanks George! I am much more clear now.

So, no one has any recommendation from bayarea, ca?

Sy

 

I purchased some Optiseal from you, and am very happy with the results and ease of use. I'm now thinking of adding a wax layer to my PG g37. What are the pros/cons of liquid spray-on wax (e.g., OPT or Souveran) vs. traditional buff on/off waxes? Can you get as good coverage and protection with the spray-ons, or would I be just trading off a better shine for speed and ease of application? I don't have a buffer, so looking to do this by hand. Do you have any preferred brands of spray wax? Thanks.

 

George,
One more question, when you say "Seal" You meant couple layers of wax?

Sy

 

Thanks for your support

Be sure to keep us posted on how the detail turns out and what you think of the new products you picked up.

Sounds like you found a good detailer based on your other post. Let us know how things turn out.

Liquid waxes typically won't last as long as a paste wax and you may sacrifice a little in the looks department. The benefit is the ease of application and removal. A lot of people who use Opti-Seal go for OPT Car Wax on top as their wax. It's a great combination used by many professionals. There's no benefit to applying a sealant or wax with a buffer, in fact I prefer it by hand. The main benefit of a buffer is to apply polishes properly, which remove swirls, scratches and other imperfections in the paint. Hope this helps.

I was referring to using a polymer sealant, like Chemical Guys Jet Seal 109, Menzerna FMJ, or Duragloss 105 you mentioned in the other thread. They will last quite longer than a natural carnauba wax, which is nice on a new car prep. You can always top the sealant coat with a wax on your own if you wish, which is pretty easy to apply and remove.

Cheers,

George