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Old 07-16-2009, 02:02 AM   #856
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hey George quick couple of questions:

-Does the PC7242 packages on DI come with lake county pads?
-I just got some Mezerna Power finish P0203s and it recommends to use the green pad, but i dont have the green one. I have the white, orange, yellow, black and blue. which one can i use instead? i wanna follow up with Po106fa after the power finish with the white pad.

thanks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 03:49 AM   #857
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whats the best way to clean the MF towel but still stay in good condition
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Old 07-16-2009, 08:34 AM   #858
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucky_One View Post
hey George quick couple of questions:

-Does the PC7242 packages on DI come with lake county pads?
-I just got some Mezerna Power finish P0203s and it recommends to use the green pad, but i dont have the green one. I have the white, orange, yellow, black and blue. which one can i use instead? i wanna follow up with Po106fa after the power finish with the white pad.

thanks.
Yes our DI Packages use Lake Country pads. They are the only pads we offer. Power Finish can be used with a variety of pads, the green pad will offer slightly more cut than a white pad. If you apply PO203S with a white pad, then I'd recommend following up with the PO106FA on a black pad. You always want to go finer and finer with your polish / pad combos. If you wanted more cut with the PO203S you could opt for an orange pad, then use PO106FA with a white pad. Hope that helps.

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Originally Posted by jnguyen View Post
whats the best way to clean the MF towel but still stay in good condition
Here's a good read on how to care for your microfiber towels. If you follow everything in that guide, your towels will stay fresh for years. As a restoration method for microfiber you can boil the towels.

Hope that helps,

George
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:44 PM   #859
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George,
Received my goodies yesterday. Fast shipping! One question about claying:
For each panel is there a method to claying? I know the basics, like always having a lot of lube but for instance, if I am claying my passenger door, am I supposed to clay in a left to right motion or an up and down? Same for the hood, if I am standing in front of the hood, what motion would I use or does it not matter?
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:52 PM   #860
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Originally Posted by Taktix1 View Post
George,
Received my goodies yesterday. Fast shipping! One question about claying:
For each panel is there a method to claying? I know the basics, like always having a lot of lube but for instance, if I am claying my passenger door, am I supposed to clay in a left to right motion or an up and down? Same for the hood, if I am standing in front of the hood, what motion would I use or does it not matter?
I don't think it matters much as long as you are passing over each area multiple times. I typically try to make passes in each direction so that you ensure you remove all of the stubborn contamination and pass over each area multiple times.

Keep us posted on how the detail turns out.

Cheers,

George
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Old 07-20-2009, 08:29 PM   #861
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Thanks for your support

Sounds like you found a good detailer based on your other post. Let us know how things turn out.

Cheers,

George
Just thought I should post a follow-up on what was done with this new detailer.

Car wash:
Meguiars Auto Shampoo Plus to rinse
Chemicals guys car wash and gloss to rinse and wash
Two bucket washing method
P21S Total Auto Wash and Super Green Stuff 1:4 All Purpose Cleaner for dirty areas

Wheels and Tires: (Exhaust)
P21S Wheel Gel
Super Green Stuff 1:4 for tires and fender well
Swisswiss Brushes and DD fender weel brush
Ace Power Stick for inner wheel
Wheel Sealant
P21S Polishing Soap

Clay:
ONR as Clay Lube

Wax:
Jet Seal 109
Victoria Red as LSP
Adam's Spray Wax

Other:
Invisible Glass
Klasses all in one for chrome part like Grill and Windows Trim
Uber Micro Fibre
DD Drying Towel
DI Sponge
Girt Guard
Foam Gun
Vac N Blo
50:50 Alcohol Wipe up

Interior:
Leather Master Cleaning Kit
Super Green Stuff for dirty carpets
1Z cockpit for interior protection

Engine:
303 for engine bay wipe up

In general, I was satisfy. There was some missing spots that were not completely wipe down here and there, I don't know if it is common. He tried to clay the black smudge I had on the clear bra, but only was able to reduced it. He didn't want to polish the clear bra. And, when I got back home, bam, another black smudge...I still couldn't get rid of it...the clear bra has become pain in the axx.

sy
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Old 07-21-2009, 08:14 PM   #862
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Can I use CG JetSeal 109 over Klasse AIO?
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Old 07-22-2009, 03:08 PM   #863
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sytrash View Post
Just thought I should post a follow-up on what was done with this new detailer.

Car wash:
Meguiars Auto Shampoo Plus to rinse
Chemicals guys car wash and gloss to rinse and wash
Two bucket washing method
P21S Total Auto Wash and Super Green Stuff 1:4 All Purpose Cleaner for dirty areas

Wheels and Tires: (Exhaust)
P21S Wheel Gel
Super Green Stuff 1:4 for tires and fender well
Swisswiss Brushes and DD fender weel brush
Ace Power Stick for inner wheel
Wheel Sealant
P21S Polishing Soap

Clay:
ONR as Clay Lube

Wax:
Jet Seal 109
Victoria Red as LSP
Adam's Spray Wax

Other:
Invisible Glass
Klasses all in one for chrome part like Grill and Windows Trim
Uber Micro Fibre
DD Drying Towel
DI Sponge
Girt Guard
Foam Gun
Vac N Blo
50:50 Alcohol Wipe up

Interior:
Leather Master Cleaning Kit
Super Green Stuff for dirty carpets
1Z cockpit for interior protection

Engine:
303 for engine bay wipe up

In general, I was satisfy. There was some missing spots that were not completely wipe down here and there, I don't know if it is common. He tried to clay the black smudge I had on the clear bra, but only was able to reduced it. He didn't want to polish the clear bra. And, when I got back home, bam, another black smudge...I still couldn't get rid of it...the clear bra has become pain in the axx.

sy
Thanks for the update Sy. Did you feel you got a good deal out of it or do you think it wasn't worth it?

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Originally Posted by Martingouin View Post
Can I use CG JetSeal 109 over Klasse AIO?
Yes, Klasse AIO is an acrylic based product that makes for a good base for sealants.

George
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Old 07-25-2009, 05:02 PM   #864
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I just had my car detail and someone already scuffed my car up. Is there anyway to clean it up without a buffer?

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Old 07-26-2009, 11:53 AM   #865
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I'd pick up some Meguiar's ScratchX and go at it with some elbow grease and pressure on a foam applicator pad. You should be able to reduce it if not remove most of it, they just look like surface scuffs. Make sure you reapply some sealant or wax after though because the polish will remove any of your protection currently on there.

Good luck, keep us posted how things turn out.

George
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Old 07-27-2009, 12:27 AM   #866
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Hi George,
thanks for all your good replies. It's always worth it. But I have an another question. My girl friend's truck has some scratches on her interior colored plastic (dash and bottom trim door plastic). How can I remove this? Most of the plastic polish are for clear plastic (like lights). So what is my best bet?
Thanks in advance!
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Old 07-27-2009, 10:58 AM   #867
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Thanks for the reply, that should do the trick



For new car preps what I recommend is the following:

Wash > Clay (with fine grade clay) > Seal

You can skip the polishing since you said there are no visible swirls yet. Some people will opt to use a non-abrasive paint cleaner prior to using a sealant, but that's optional.



George
Sorry if this has been covered, but I can't seem to find an exact answer. I also have a new car (< 1 month). I have washed it twice using the traditonal two-bucket method, and I have applied two coats of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0. I did not apply any sealant. By the way, the car looks amazing and is smooth as glass. But, after reading this thread, I think I screwed up.

First, is it too late too late to seal? I know one can add wax on top of sealant, and not vice versa, so must I now remove the wax? Would that be best accomplished by washing and claying, or is there some other formula that I should apply to completely remove the wax? My car, too, has no swirls as yet, so I don't think a polish is necessary.

That actually brings up another question. I have seen this covered elsewhere, but I am seeking others' opinions (George's in particular): Is the "self-healing" paint on the new G37 best not polished at all?

Thanks in advance.

Tom

Last edited by upperdecker; 07-27-2009 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 07-27-2009, 01:05 PM   #868
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I am still learning about how to take care of this beautiful car I purchased. After reading a lot of opinions I decided to step up my efforts a little and purchased some Optimum No Rinse, FMJ sealant and some Natty's Blue Wax for my BO G37. I have some very hard well water at my house and the ONR seemed like a great solution to the water spots I was getting washing the car with suds. I used some water from inside the house, which is filtered and softened and it worked great. Wash a section of the car and dry it, no spots!

The FMJ and Natty's made the car look just awesome. I am so glad I made the leap.

Question: This car gets driven a lot, around 500-600 miles a week. It is garage kept on both ends of the commute. What interval should I look at for waxing and sealing? Will the sealant last longer if I keep a nice layer of wax on it?

You'll notice the wife's monster truck next to my G. She is already asking when I plan to do it?
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Old 07-27-2009, 02:55 PM   #869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martingouin View Post
Hi George,
thanks for all your good replies. It's always worth it. But I have an another question. My girl friend's truck has some scratches on her interior colored plastic (dash and bottom trim door plastic). How can I remove this? Most of the plastic polish are for clear plastic (like lights). So what is my best bet?
Thanks in advance!
Unfortunately if you have scratches on interior trim or dash, it's not the easiest thing to remove. I can't recommend a product that is known to fix scratches on the dash, usually you have to go to a leather / vinyl specialist (most dashes are vinyl).

The only thing I know that can correct surface imperfections (like swirls) are plastic specific polishes, but I don't think that will help at all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by upperdecker View Post
Sorry if this has been covered, but I can't seem to find an exact answer. I also have a new car (< 1 month). I have washed it twice using the traditonal two-bucket method, and I have applied two coats of Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax 2.0. I did not apply any sealant. By the way, the car looks amazing and is smooth as glass. But, after reading this thread, I think I screwed up.

First, is it too late too late to seal? I know one can add wax on top of sealant, and not vice versa, so must I now remove the wax? Would that be best accomplished by washing and claying, or is there some other formula that I should apply to completely remove the wax? My car, too, has no swirls as yet, so I don't think a polish is necessary.

That actually brings up another question. I have seen this covered elsewhere, but I am seeking others' opinions (George's in particular): Is the "self-healing" paint on the new G37 best not polished at all?

Thanks in advance.

Tom
Tom,

If you wanted to add the sealant, you'd want to strip off the layers of wax first. Using a clay bar will typically remove most layers of protection, but if it's fresh, it may not remove it fully. To be sure you remove everything, you could use some Isopropyl Alcohol and water like a quick detailer.

After sealing, you want to wait 24 hours prior to topping it with a wax again to allow the sealant to fully cure and properly bond to the paint giving you the most durable protection possible. Also, make sure that the wax you are using doesn't have cleaners in it and it's a pure carnauba wax, otherwise, you'll strip off the sealant.

You can still polish the self healing clear coats, if the paint is swirled, you cannot remove the swirls and imperfections without polishing. The thing I recommend on this type of paint though is always starting with the least aggressive polish and pad combination and working your way up as needed. The clear is very soft and one should use more caution when polishing Infiniti paint.

Hope this helps...

Quote:
Originally Posted by KLB View Post
I am still learning about how to take care of this beautiful car I purchased. After reading a lot of opinions I decided to step up my efforts a little and purchased some Optimum No Rinse, FMJ sealant and some Natty's Blue Wax for my BO G37. I have some very hard well water at my house and the ONR seemed like a great solution to the water spots I was getting washing the car with suds. I used some water from inside the house, which is filtered and softened and it worked great. Wash a section of the car and dry it, no spots!

The FMJ and Natty's made the car look just awesome. I am so glad I made the leap.

Question: This car gets driven a lot, around 500-600 miles a week. It is garage kept on both ends of the commute. What interval should I look at for waxing and sealing? Will the sealant last longer if I keep a nice layer of wax on it?

You'll notice the wife's monster truck next to my G. She is already asking when I plan to do it?
Thanks for sharing the pic, your car looks stunning. FMJ topped with Natty's Blue is a great combo on dark colored vehicles. I'd reapply Natty's once a month and reapply the FMJ once a season (or every 3 months) to ensure you have full protection on your car at all times.

Have fun doing that truck, probably twice the surface area as your G.

Cheers,

George
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Old 07-27-2009, 04:37 PM   #870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Detailed Image View Post
Thanks for sharing the pic, your car looks stunning. FMJ topped with Natty's Blue is a great combo on dark colored vehicles. I'd reapply Natty's once a month and reapply the FMJ once a season (or every 3 months) to ensure you have full protection on your car at all times.

Have fun doing that truck, probably twice the surface area as your G.

Cheers,

George
Thanks for the help and the great website! When it is time to reapply the FMJ how do I strip the existing wax/sealant? Can I use a stronger ONR wash or will I need something else?

She will have to agree to a orbital buffer before I tackle that thing. I'd have to get one of your polishing kits for sure.
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