k thanks.

 

Loi,

I think both would look great on the black Z06. Natty's Blue does a great job bringing out more of the wet look on darker colored vehicles. P21S may offer sharper reflections and is easier to apply and remove. It really comes down to preference and time.

An ounce is a little less than a shot glass, which is about 1.5 ounces. If you're using pea sized drops, you're certainly not stripping off your wax, but chances are you aren't getting too much cleaning ability either because you aren't using enough shampoo. To strip off protection, the bottle of CWG says to use 2 ounces per gallon of water, so in 4 gallons of water, you'd want to use 8 ounces of product, half of the 16oz bottle for a single wash. CG recommends .5 ounce of product per gallon of water for regular maintenance, so somewhere between 1 - 2 ounces of product in a 5 gallon bucket of water is what you want to be using.

Unfortunately, Corvette paint is one of the hardest paints on the market and is difficult to correct. You always want to start with the least aggressive option to get the job done, so as Blackjack mentioned, you may want to try a white pad with PO106FF in a small area, then assess your results. If that doesn't do the trick, I'd try Super Intensive Polish with a white or green pad, then if you have to move up to an orange pad, you're looking at doing 2 steps. If you have access to Power Finish, you could try that as well with a white or green pad.

Hope this helps.

George

 

Just sold a 10 year old auto before getting my new G37x. Kept the body and interior in good shape, but when the buyer had it put up on a lift for inspection, the undercarriage had major rust. I thought I had been doing a good job of rinsing it, but obviously not. I want to take care of my new 37x a whole lot better.

What’s the best way to keep the undercarriage clean other than going through a car wash (won’t do this) or putting it on a lift or a pit (can’t do this)? I'm trying to avoid rolling under there with the hose and splashing road muck in my eyes and down my throat. Are there special undercarriage hose nozzles? Do I need a pressure washer to do the job right?

What about rubberized sprays like Sprayway Auto Body Under-Coating, Wurth Stone Guard Black, or Bare Bones Undercarriage Spray? Any good ? And how do you apply these without a lift or a pit?

I hate winter.

Thanks.

 

Good question. I don't have a great solution to cleaning the undercarriage. Usually I'll run a degreaser under the car as best I can simply by laying down under the car and spraying as much as I can. Ideally, you'd want the car on a lift / pit, you could use ramps or just jack up 1 side at a time as a simpler option. I'd recommend doing this on your thorough details twice a year or so.

I've never used one of the rubberized coating products, so I cannot comment on how good or bad they work. CG Bare Bones is more of a degreaser that will leave behind a nice finish and help protect to the elements to some extent. I use it for the undercarriage, wheel wells, and in the engine bay myself.

Sorry I don't have a better answer for you on this one. If you find a technique that is easy to use, keep as all posted.

George

 

As you have recommended purchasing new pads when changing products, how many pads should I be buying? I am looking at the 4” variety.

So how many white, yellow or oranges should I be getting? Should I change from 4” to 6”?

Thanks again!

 

George,

I want to know, whats your solution against "Shotgun Fungus" on your paint?

 

I typically use 3 or 4 pads per product in an ideal situation, perhaps 5 - 6 with the smaller 4" pads since they cover less area than a 6.5" pad. It's much easier to swap out for a new pad, than it is to stop, clean the pad with a toothbrush and then continue on. Basically what I do is complete 1/3rd - 1/4th of the car, remove the pad and have a bucket of water and degreaser ready. Put the pad in there so it can start releasing the product from the pad before it sets in. You're up and running in less than a minute this way and cleaning your pads in the long run is significantly easier and you get much longer life out of them. Smaller pads on a PC offer more cut and are able to break down polish abrasives more effectively. It also allows you to apply more pressure in a concentrated area and maneuver in tighter areas.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

Honestly, I have never heard of shotgun fungus so I can't tell you a good solution. If it's contamination on the paint, then try using a clay bar. If it has discolored the paint, then polish after.

George

 

How many times can u polish a car before running out of clear coat?

P.S

What is the difference between a rotary buffer and a random orbital buffer?

 

If you polish correctly, along with following the proper washing and drying techniques to minimize adding imperfections after polishing, you could probably polish with a finishing polish twice a year for 30 years and still have clear coat remaining.

Wet sanding and compounding will remove the most clear coat.

How long do you plan on keeping the car for? If it's 3 - 10 years, chances are you can polish as much as you want during that time and not run out of clear (again assuming you're polishing correctly and minimizing how aggressive you go each time).

In the short, rotary buffers spin continuously in 1 direction, which can generate a lot more heat than a random orbital which oscillates and does not spin. Rotary buffers can potentially burn through the paint if used improperly, random orbitals typically have very little risk of damaging the paint. If you're asking this question for yourself, you want a random orbital buffer.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

 

^^^

Ill probably have the car for 4 - 5 years. I wish planning on sticking to light abrasives.

 

What are swirls marks exactly? I know they are caused my improver washing and drying but they seem to be too perfect of circles to be caused by the motion of my hand. How deep r they in the clear coat?

 

 

Black Betty posted up a great picture of swirl marks in the paint. Swirls can come in various forms and depths. Washing and drying swirls are usually on the surface and are revealed during certain lighting, like sunlight. Deeper imperfections, like what BB posted, usually require a halogen (or equivalent) light source to reveal. If you have marks like BB posted, chances are you're going to need a quality buffer to effectively remove most of them.

If you have any other questions please do not hesitate to ask.

Thanks Jeremy for posting up the pics.

George

 

In fairness to Betty, she asked me to post the "after" photo from that detail:


Can't wait to get the Flex in to get even more correction for the stuff that the PC just couldn't quite make perfect.

 

hey can yall help me out. Can you give me some suggestion on IP. also what yall use. This is what i bookmark so i can get all at the same time after i ask yall.

Car Soap: CG Citrus and Gloss
Claybar: chemical guys fine grade clay bar
Polish (light cutting): Menzerna PO106FF
Polish (medium cutting): Menzerna IP
Polish (heavy cutting):
Glaze: Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze
Sealant: Menzerna FMJ
Wax:
Tire Dressing: Blackfire Tire Gel
Wheel Sealant:
Interior Protectant:
Leather Care: Lexol
Quick Detailer: Poorboy spray and gloss
Glass Cleaner: Stoner's Invisible Glass

i also got the PC 7424 starter kit. all from detailed image.com

you think you can teach or tell me what steps i need to take and etc. what do i use for Clay bar lube cause i got the chemical guys luber or whatever. Im about to get a professional detail and after that i wanted to start washing my car the right way and detail myself instead of paying the 300 for full interior and exterior detail

Im order all this and more at the same time after i get my Pro Detail. Total for everything came up to 540 without shipped haha so im order it soon