Loi

iTrader: (12)

how many ounce of Chemical Guys Microfiber Cleaning Detergent do you use per wash? thanks

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Here's what CG suggests:

"For a small load, add 1 oz. (approx 4-5 cap fulls) to your wash. For a full load, add 2 oz. (approx 8-10 cap fulls) to your wash. For heavily soiled items, pre-soaking is a great idea, add 2 oz. to a 5 gallon bucket filled with water and let soak, then put into a machine and allow for regular wash."

I always try to pre-soak my towels directly after use. When you're done with your wash phase, fill up a 5 gallon bucket, put some detergent in and simply throw all of your towels into the bucket when you're done. It'll make them come out cleaner and stay like new much longer. The better you care for your towels, the longer the last and the longer they stay paint safe without potentially marring your finish.

Hope that helps,

George

Loi

iTrader: (12)

thanks, I been having streaking problems, and I think I found the problem.... Using Tide and FABRIC SOFTNER!

I'm going to try CG out and hopefully it resolves the problem.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Fabric softener could definitely be the culprit! Depending on how much fabric softener was used, you could opt to boil the towels to bring them as close to the original state as possible and reopen the pores of the microfiber. If that doesn't do the trick, could be time to invest in some new towels and take care of them properly from day 1.

Let us know if the MF Detergent helps.

George

kushBLAZER84

Hi everyone my first post here, but been reading the site everyday for about 2 weeks now. Anyways I just bought a 09 G37 Sedan Blue Slate exactly a week ago from today. I had my tints and VentureShield put on yesterday, and now I'm even more in love with how she looks. With my first car a I really didnt bother washing her properly because she was just a used car and just my begginer car.

But for my G I want to treat her like my first born, so nothing but hand washing for her. Anyways I bought a bunch of stuff from Detail Image and was wondering if there might be anything else I might need. I plan on giving my G her first wash this weekend if the weather cooperates, using the 2 bucket system. So as far as supplies I'm pretty much set right? Also for the leather seats I'm using Lexol cleaner and conditioner which I bought at a local auto supply store. After cleaning and conditioning it is it ok to put the Optimum Protectant Plus or should I do it in a different order? Also is the Optimum Protectant Plus ok to use on the rest of the interior? Also for waxing/polishing the VentureShield any advice? Any suggestions your guys can input would be greatly appreciated. Thx.






DI Accessories E-Z Detail Brush - Mini Size 1
DI Accessories Sheepskin Wash Mitt 2
DI Microfiber Applicator Pad 1
DI Packages Microfiber Starter Kit 1
DI Packages Wheel and Tire Basic Kit 1
Dodo Juice Purple Haze Soft Wax - 30 ml 1
Dodo Juice Red Mist Tropical Protection Detai - 250 ml 1
Dodo Juice Lime Prime Lite Cleaner Glaze - 250 ml 1
Grit Guard Grit Guard Insert 1
Dodo Juice Sour Power Gloss Enhancing Shampoo - 250 ml 1
Optimum (OPT) Metal Polish - 8 oz 1
Optimum (OPT) Protectant Plus - 17 oz 1
Stoner Invisible Glass - 19 oz 1

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the new G. Looks like your off to a great start with the products you selected.

You got it right in that you'd want to use Lexol before the OPT Protectant Plus. The Protectant Plus offers UV protection which you'd want on your leather last. It's also safe to use on vinyl, rubber, plastic and leatherette, so you can basically use it on the rest of your interior for a light cleaning and UV protection. It leaves behind a nice matte finish so you don't have a gloss look to your interior.

You can treat your VentureShield like you would your paint, but you want to avoid over polishing it. Simply protect it and wash as normal. Also, when polishing or protecting your paint, you may want to tape off the edges of your clear bra so that product doesn't build up around the edges and shows an outline of your clear bra.

Keep us posted on how your first detail turns out on your G! Thanks again for your support.

George

NateLajoie

My paint color is silver, and after every wash. I see little red spots all over it. They look like they must be insect blood or something. I don't know exactly what they are. I've found that the only way to effectively remove these spots is a clay bar. So is it safe to use a fine grade clay bar after every wash? Also I've been using chemical guys sythethic quick detailer as a clay lube. If I'm using a quick detailer that means I clay it and wipe it up immediately, then there would be no need for another wash afterward? I'm really unsure how the clay works when you use the quick detailer. What does the poorboy's spray have over the chemical guys? If I use the quick detailer after every wash and wash every week, is that enough protection? Or would I still need wax every 2-4 weeks? I understand that both would be better , but I've found it real easy to be able to just quick detail after a wash, than it is to break out the wax paste. Is there a softer wax than chemical guys pete 53? That stuff is great, but it's so hard to get it out and I'm spending most of my time just getting that stuff on the pad.. I wouldn't be so hesitant to wax if I could find an easier wax to deal with.

Also, I'm about ready to spring on the porter cable xp. I've read the guide to car maintainance, but I'm really confused with all the available polishes. I just don't know what to pick..
Thanks again for answering all the questions.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Good questions. I wouldn't recommend using a clay bar after each wash, it will strip off a part of your protection each time. What I'd try first before turning to a clay bar is a diluted bug and tar remover, something like Poorboy's Bug Squash would be a good option. I'd recommend diluting it down 3:1 to start and see if that helps remove the spots without claying. If you have your paint properly protected year round, that combination should do the trick. I'd stick to claying 2 or 3 times a year (unless it is absolutely needed).

Clay bar lubricants are pretty similar, in most cases they are just quick detailers. Poorboy's Spray & Wipe is a preferred clay bar lubricant because it's filled with cleaners which can help release dirt and contamination from the surface. Other quick detailers, may not have as many cleaner or may enhance the gloss of the paint, which isn't necessary for a clay lube. One of my favorite clay bar lubricants is Dodo Juice Born Slippy, since it's a concentrate that you dilute 10:1 and works amazing as a clay lube.

Most waxes will last between 3 - 8 weeks depending on a lot of factors. You should still shoot to wax monthly, but you can extend the life and protection by using a spray on wax after each wash. Something like Optimum Car Wax is your best option for that type of product, most QD's will only offer protection for a few days to a week or so, where the OCW will give you a few weeks of protection.

Pete's '53 should be pretty easy to work with. Mist some distilled water or quick detailer on your applicator pad, wring it out, swirl the pad around the top of the wax to get it primed, fold the applicator in half a few times to get the product equally dispensed. You don't need to see chunks of wax on your applicator pad, when I use a wax for the first time, the jar barely looks used. The key is to spread the product as thin as possible. You should barely see the product on your paint. Most people over apply product which leads to wasted product use and excess time spent removing product.

My suggestion as a starting point for polishes is to start with a white pad and Menzerna Power Finish. Power Finish is an ideal medium cutting polish that finishes down very nicely, especially on a not so aggressive pad like a white polishing pad. Assess your paint after that and see if you need to go more or less aggressive next time around.

I think this covers all of your questions, please let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with.

Cheers,

George

NateLajoie

I guess the thing about the wax, is that it's form is hard, and I find it very difficult to get it on the applicator pad. When I'm using it, it breaks off into chunks and flakes... To solve that, I'll try what you said. If it's still too time consuming, I'll just apply it with my fingers, since I think that works well with it. I also see that there's a carnuba moose wax from clearkote, that may be what I'm looking for. I'm mainly trying to save time, because the last time I waxed it, it just took longer than I wanted.

For the red spots I tried P21S total auto wash, didn't work. So I'll try the bug and tar remover.

For my first polishing detail, I have chemical guys jetseal and ez creme glaze ready to go. I'm just missing the buffer and polish. If I'm getting the power menzerna as you suggested, what would I use for a finishing polish?

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Regarding the wax, don't be too concerned about seeing the wax on your applicator pad, sometimes it's just a clear oily look to it which you can't really see, but there's usually plenty on there.

How long is the wax process taking you? It shouldn't be more than a 40 minute process start to finish applying and removing.

ClearKote CMW is a great alternative to paste waxes, a lot of detailers enjoy that product, especially since you can effectively use a buffer to apply it.

If the P21S Total Auto Wash didn't do the trick, a diluted Bug & Tar remover won't offer much more. My best advice is to make sure that area is always protected with a sealant and/or wax and to try to remove the spots as soon as they appear. You may want to keep a quick detailer handy in a small pump spray bottle with a MF to try to remove the marks on a regular basis before it has much time to set into the paint.

Power Finish is a 1 step product, you don't necessarily have to follow up with a finishing polish. If you did want another polish finer to enhance the gloss and depth slightly more, go with PO85RD on a black pad.

Hope this helps.

George

NateLajoie

It took me about an hour and a half to wax after prepping the car. The whole process took a long time, but I am still relatively new to properly caring for paint on a vehicle. I'm sure it'd go much faster now that I know better what to do. I was concerned about seeing the wax on the pad and the car when I was applying it. I would break it off in chunks and rub the pad together, then apply the wax. The problem was that viisually I was looking for affirmation that there was product on the vehicle and pad. Now I'm seeing that this is not neccessary, and that soaking the pad will help get the product out easier.

I just looked over your polishing guide again. Found everything I needed to be able to pick out polishes. Didn't know it was updated from before. Again thanks for all the advice.

upperdecker

I just finished my first real attempt at detailing. I washed/dried, sprayed with isopropyl-water to remove the wax I had previously applied, clayed, then applied Full Molecular Jacket (FMJ). Took quite a few hours, during which I had to assure my wife that I am not insane, particularly since this is a leased vehicle.

Unfortunately, I didn't review the excellent primer on applying sealant available at detailedimage.com (http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-De...uide/Sealants/) prior to that step or I wouldn't have made this mistake. I thought the car looked so amazing that I applied a second coat of FMJ within a few hours of the first application. The detailed image info, as I belatedly noticed this morning, clearly states to wait at least 24 hours prior to reapplying.

What harm have I done? Should I remove the existing coats of FMJ and do it again? Or is failing to wait 24 hours more a matter of not ending up with multiple "coats" since the first didn't have a chance to fully bond to the paint?

One more thing. I also didn't realize that I was supposed to shake the bottle of FMJ prior to applying. I would say that the fluid in the bottle was nonetheless fairly well agitated, as the bottle was knocked over once or twice and was moved around quite a bit, but again, should I consider removing the sealant with the water-isopropyl mix and reapplying?

Sorry for the noob questions and rookie mistakes.

Tom

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Tom,

Good questions and good news. I wouldn't worry about stripping off the work you just did and reapply more product. Basically what you did by applying the coats back to back was ensure you had full even coverage of your vehicle. The gain by waiting 24 hours between coats may only result in 10% more durability and maybe a tad more shine, it's not like a night and day difference where you'd look at your vehicle and say "Doh!".

Don't stress it. If you really want to tackle that second coat, simply wait till your first wash, dry it, then reapply FMJ. It's so easy to apply and remove you can probably apply that coat in 30 - 40 mins start to finish.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

What were your thoughts on the FMJ? Were you pleased with the results?

Thanks again,

George

upperdecker

Thanks very much for the quick reply, George. I feel much better now, particularly after having spent a good chunk of my weekend on the project. I must say, though, that I found the whole experience oddly enjoyable.

Anyway, to answer your question about FMJ, I was completely blown away. Not only is the result utterly satisfying (smooth and glossy), but the ease of use is just shocking. I was 100% satisfied, and the MF applicator and towel that came in the package were nice bonuses. I had only used carnauba waxes in the past, and I am much happier with this type of protectant (I think they call it "super wax"?). I will eventually add Poorboy's Natty Blue on top of the FMJ--I've already taken delivery--but for now, I am more interested in adding a second coat of FMJ.

I know I sound like an ad for Detailed Image and FMJ, but I am being totally honest. I plan on writing a product review on the DI product page reiterating these sentiments.

One last thing, which just occurred to me. When I do end up applying the Natty's Blue, will I no longer be able to add coats of FMJ without first stripping everything off? In other words, am I correct in my understanding that sealant can not be applied atop wax?

Thanks again, George, both for the info and the excellent products and service at DI.

Tom

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Tom,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and the kind words

You got it right, a sealant will not bond properly to a wax. Basically what I'd do is decide if you'd rather apply Natty's Blue on a regular basis or FMJ on a regular basis. You can use a quick detailer that's designed specifically for sealants instead of using something like Natty's Blue once a month. Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield is designed specifically to work with FMJ.

Let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

Cheers,

George