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Old May 4, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #781  
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George, thank you for my new stuff. I'm really impressed with the Clay Bar, Jet Seal and Blackfire Tire Gel. I would highly recommend it to everybody. Now i can't wait till you have a special on the porter cable or flex to complete my detailing needs. Thanks again.

Neil
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Old May 11, 2009 | 02:09 AM
  #782  
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hey I was wiping my windows the earlier and i notice some water marks that seem to be imprinted into the glass. how can I get rid of that. I have dark tint so you can see it more than if my window wasnt tinted
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Old May 11, 2009 | 11:33 PM
  #783  
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what is the difference between these two Intensive polish. The Merzerna Super IP and Merzerna IP?

http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...ct-description


http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...-P72/32-oz-S2/
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Old May 11, 2009 | 11:43 PM
  #784  
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Originally Posted by Lucky_One
what is the difference between these two Intensive polish. The Merzerna Super IP and Merzerna IP?

http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...ct-description


http://www.detailedimage.com/Menzern...-P72/32-oz-S2/

The difference is their cutting ability and to a certain extent work time.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 11:14 AM
  #785  
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Originally Posted by nikku
The difference is their cutting ability and to a certain extent work time.
i assume that SIP needs more work time and cuts more than the IP.
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Old May 13, 2009 | 11:07 AM
  #786  
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Originally Posted by n_jay888
George, thank you for my new stuff. I'm really impressed with the Clay Bar, Jet Seal and Blackfire Tire Gel. I would highly recommend it to everybody. Now i can't wait till you have a special on the porter cable or flex to complete my detailing needs. Thanks again.

Neil
Anytime, thanks for the support

Originally Posted by jnguyen
hey I was wiping my windows the earlier and i notice some water marks that seem to be imprinted into the glass. how can I get rid of that. I have dark tint so you can see it more than if my window wasnt tinted
The water marks are on the outside glass or the inside tinted part? If it's on the outside glass, you can try using some distilled white vinegar with your window cleaner to help remove mineral deposits that still remain. If that doesn't work you can try a water spot remover, such as Chemical Guys Water Spot Remover or Glass Science Glass Scrub. Some people will even work those products in with a buffer for optimal results.

Originally Posted by Lucky_One
i assume that SIP needs more work time and cuts more than the IP.
SIP and IP actually have about the same cutting ability. SIP offers longer work time, is easier to remove and dusts less. SIP also finishes down finer than IP would. Those are the main differences between the two.

Cheers,

George
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Old May 15, 2009 | 07:38 PM
  #787  
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SIP and IP actually have about the same cutting ability. SIP offers longer work time, is easier to remove and dusts less. SIP also finishes down finer than IP would. Those are the main differences between the two.
thanks, ill probably go with SIP, but u guys are out of stock of it for now? im gonna need an order soon, will i be able to the Memorial day discount?
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Old May 17, 2009 | 01:01 PM
  #788  
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Originally Posted by Lucky_One
thanks, ill probably go with SIP, but u guys are out of stock of it for now? im gonna need an order soon, will i be able to the Memorial day discount?
Unfortunately, I don't have an exact date when SIP is coming back in stock. We were told end of the month to early June. If you purchase SIP during the sale, your order will go on hold and will ship out once we get it in.

Another alternative, which happens to be our Daily Special today, is to go with Menzerna PO203S Power Finish. The cut is very close to SIP, say if SIP was a 5.5 out of 10, Power Finish is about a 5, but Power Finish will finish down finer than SIP.

Considering the price of Power Finish today, I'd jump on that myself.

George
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Old May 18, 2009 | 11:40 AM
  #789  
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Unfortunately, I don't have an exact date when SIP is coming back in stock. We were told end of the month to early June. If you purchase SIP during the sale, your order will go on hold and will ship out once we get it in.

Another alternative, which happens to be our Daily Special today, is to go with Menzerna PO203S Power Finish. The cut is very close to SIP, say if SIP was a 5.5 out of 10, Power Finish is about a 5, but Power Finish will finish down finer than SIP.

Considering the price of Power Finish today, I'd jump on that myself.

George

damn it, i should of got it when i got the chance, i second guessed myself. well i still need it, so i will be putting an order together.

i also need some lube for clay bar. which would be good to use:

pb S&W
PB S&G
chemical guys luber
alcohol and water
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Old May 18, 2009 | 06:57 PM
  #790  
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From: Delawhere
Can you tell me about the different grade clay bars. Is medium for heavy contamination and fine for light contamination?
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Old May 18, 2009 | 07:52 PM
  #791  
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Originally Posted by Lucky_One
damn it, i should of got it when i got the chance, i second guessed myself. well i still need it, so i will be putting an order together.

i also need some lube for clay bar. which would be good to use:

pb S&W
PB S&G
chemical guys luber
alcohol and water
Of what you listed, Chemical Guys Luber or Poorboy's Spray & Wipe would be your best options as clay lube. You definitely don't want to use alcohol and water as it would probably make your clay stick to your paint which will cause you more work.

If you need a hand selecting anything else, please do not hesitate to ask.

Originally Posted by IvoryG
Can you tell me about the different grade clay bars. Is medium for heavy contamination and fine for light contamination?
Medium grade clay bars are almost sure to leave behind micro-marring that will require an abrasive polish to remove. Medium grade bars are should be used on very neglected paint that has contamination build up, such as paint over spray, tar, sap, etc. I'd say 90% or more of our customers should probably go with a fine grade clay bar, especially with soft Infiniti paint.

Hope this helps clarify things for you.

George
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Old May 18, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #792  
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Originally Posted by pfizzle
Is it good get my car waxed more then once a month?

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
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Old May 18, 2009 | 08:03 PM
  #793  
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There's not much benefit of waxing sooner than once a month in terms of protection. Initially, some people will layer multiple coats after allowing 12 - 24 hours of cure time between coats, which can enhance the durability and gloss and depth. Most waxes last about 3 - 8 weeks, so waxing sooner than it runs out just ensures you are properly protecting your paint year round.

Sorry if I missed this question before.

Cheers,

George
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Old May 19, 2009 | 02:02 AM
  #794  
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Hi George,

I just brought my 2009 G37S 6MT last week. So, I went to Detailed Image to buy some great products from you. Some of the essential products are: Poorboys Slick N Suds, Clay Magic Fine Grade, Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze, Menzerna FMJ. Please tell me how to properly use these products? My main concern is can you apply Glaze or Sealant on a wet car or does it has to be dried?

Here is my understanding so far:

1) wash with detergent
2) clay w/ Poorboy's detailer or soappy surface
3) wash with detergent
5) glaze with menzerna finishing touch glaze then wipe off with microfiber (Can the car be wet when I apply the glaze?)
6) one coat of menzerna FMJ then wipe off with microfiber
7) Rinse
8) Dry
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Old May 19, 2009 | 05:37 AM
  #795  
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Originally Posted by NixG37
Hi George,

I just brought my 2009 G37S 6MT last week. So, I went to Detailed Image to buy some great products from you. Some of the essential products are: Poorboys Slick N Suds, Clay Magic Fine Grade, Menzerna Finishing Touch Glaze, Menzerna FMJ. Please tell me how to properly use these products? My main concern is can you apply Glaze or Sealant on a wet car or does it has to be dried?

Here is my understanding so far:

1) wash with detergent
2) clay w/ Poorboy's detailer or soappy surface
3) wash with detergent
5) glaze with menzerna finishing touch glaze then wipe off with microfiber (Can the car be wet when I apply the glaze?)
6) one coat of menzerna FMJ then wipe off with microfiber
7) Rinse
8) Dry
The car should be completely dried after you re-wash after using the clay bar. Using the clay bar is the only step that can be done when the car is wet. I prefer claying after a wash and dry though. Your steps would be:

wash > clay > re-wash > dry > FTG > FMJ

Here's a link to our how-to guide for further reading on each step. It walks you through an entire detail.

If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

George
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