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SO a plain HR manifold would make the VHR suffer. I totally get your point of view, VHRs are useless under 4k rpm which.
I can just imagine a motordyne VHR auto on a 3.69 rear tuned, would make city driving really interesting. (I know you're AWD)
@BULL , from what I've gathered there's minimal difference between the ported and plain manifolds. A few HP or Ft/Lbs but that's it. The big difference is between the 35HR and 37VHR, with the runner volume on the 35HR moving the powerband down in RPM. More torque, less peak power - no free lunch, and all that.
When I get around to welding tabs on the VHR fuel rail to fit the HR lower intake manifold, I'll likely just clean up casting marks on my HR upper before I install. I don't hardly ever crest 6K RPM and the extra grunt in midrange would be useful. The goal is to get this done before October's Z Nationals; I've got a dyno tune scheduled with Z1 that Monday.
I've been waiting for another VQ37VHR car to come into the junkyards near here to pull the fuel rail (and score injectors that I can have cleaned without giving up mine for 2 weeks), but all of a sudden there's nothing Infiniti newer than 2006. I might have to <shudder> use ebay.
Tanabes just arrived. Cleaned up the outside of the tips by hand. The inside will need to be done with a rotary or I might just leave them as they are. The tips are pretty large and fully polished inside and out might be “too much” for me.
Don’t mind the cans either, they’ll be painted black with VHT paint for a factory look as well.
Tanabes just arrived. Cleaned up the outside of the tips by hand. The inside will need to be done with a rotary or I might just leave them as they are. The tips are pretty large and fully polished inside and out might be “too much” for me.
Don’t mind the cans either, they’ll be painted black with VHT paint for a factory look as well.
Claybar, compound, polish, and some fine grade steel wool around the tips made my exhaust look better than new.
I thought about painting my Tanabe as well when I first got them, but after i cleaned them up and put them on the car I actually liked the shiny can look
For those that don't know, I had a year in my OE shift boot, so I slapped a redline leather one over top. The aluminum shifter was too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter. Decided to fix it.
Lazy Sunday. Decided to use some older CF wrap on my son’s car steering wheel lol. I mocked it in. 18 months old and he noticed it immediately and kept pointing at it saying “Car Car Car” Lol. He likes it, I’m happy.
I haven’t wrapped anything in years. I remembered why I hate wrapping curved anything. Using a heat gun on plastic was fine, but also left me cautious. I’d leave after photos, but I broke the ****ing plastic-shaft steering column while trying to reinstall it lol.
Ok, phallic shifter V2. Reduced the size of the tip by 1 cm and made the shape a bit more pleasant to hold onto. Cleared with 2k, but still needs a bit of polish. This is as small as I can get it because of the mechanism inside for the AT shifter. Once I get my big lathe next year, I may produce a limited run of billet ***** with my own custom mechanism. I have an idea that should allow me to slim down the shaft by another cm and still have smooth action. I prototyped it in 3d and going to do some 3d print versions first, but its about a year out. Im also gearing up to make a limited run of billet aluminum radio *****. Similar to carsmo, but not stainless like his since my mini lathe cant handle steel lol. Maybe do some SS ones on the big lathe next year as well.
