When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm excited to hear if the AC controller helps your issue. I have more pressing issues to address before I get to fixing this stuff... My problem is fuel showing too high and a CEL when I fill to the max. When the tank is at 1/4, it still shows 3/4 on the gauge. Seems its the same issue, but different symptoms across different cars. Mine had no yellowing at all, Shell gas ftw . A really good friend of mine is a former Infiniti master tech, and he said over 15 years, he changed soooo many of these units. Usually, if they go, they go at about 150-200k km (I just passed 155k km). Also said its 90% chance its the more expensive passenger side sensor. I'm going to play it safe and just replace both. After shipping. its like $250 CAD on RockAuto for both. Not too bad.
Right now my maintenance list is:
Front SS brake lines - driver side ss line has the plastic coating sheared off and the steel braid is now sliding inside the metal mounting bracket...
Rear brake pads - passenger rear, one pad wearing unevenly. May need to rebuild the caliper.
New rotors - just time to replace (will do fresh pads once I get there)
Rear tires - love my Michelins, but they do wear... If anyone wants proof of our RWD bias in the X, look at my bald rears lol.
Fuel level sensors
Im sure Im forgetting something
EDIT: OH! I need new bushings for my sway bars. Last few times I had work done on the car, had my mechanic grease them... making sure to tell him to use silicone grease or to leave it alone. He did it, twice. There was some strange feeling in the car that after some research lead me to diagnose bad bushings... I checked with him... he's been using lithium grease, and it damaged the poly bushings... Just ordered my own giant tube of silicone grease, but need to get new bushings now.
Funny...I pretty much have/recently had the same maintenance list:
Front SS brake lines - exact same issue as yours except passenger side front ...i put duct tape on it last year and the new lines have been collecting dust waiting for an install
Rear brake pads - just did this in April, had to rebuild/replace the front caliper cause of uneven wear
New rotors - did this in April (BTW I have my 1 year old centric premium rotors (all four) freshly machined if you want to buy a used set..I only used them for a couple of weeks while I waited for parts..PM me if you want)
Rear tires - put fresh tires/new wheels on in april- was running staggered rears were going much faster than the fronts.
Fuel level sensors--since I cleaned them I'm getting the same symptom as you, getting a P0462 code (fuel level sensor circuit low input ) and the needle is reading above max when i fill it up and reading 3/4 when its really at 1/4...I am thinking its just a misalignment because these are additional symptoms that weren't present at all before i messed with it and the reading is consistent with the arm moving as the fuel level goes down...its like its just not zeroed right... I really didn't pay attention when putting it back together and just shoved everything back in...i'm assuming from the code and the symptoms the arm is misaligned where its going past the contacts...
also the AC controller just got delivered a few minutes ago so if I get time I'll try it after trying to align the sender arms...I'll update if I get to it before you do...btw do you have a part number for the driver's side sending unit..the only one I could find on Rockauto was about $216 for an aftermarket piece...which is even more than an OEM replacement of the passenger side with the whole fuel pump
Lost a lugnut, bought a new set. I guess now I have a lot of spares.
Originally Posted by Baadnewsburr
Funny...I pretty much have/recently had the same maintenance list:
Front SS brake lines - exact same issue as yours except passenger side front ...i put duct tape on it last year and the new lines have been collecting dust waiting for an install
Rear brake pads - just did this in April, had to rebuild/replace the front caliper cause of uneven wear
New rotors - did this in April (BTW I have my 1 year old centric premium rotors (all four) freshly machined if you want to buy a used set..I only used them for a couple of weeks while I waited for parts..PM me if you want)
Rear tires - put fresh tires/new wheels on in april- was running staggered rears were going much faster than the fronts.
Fuel level sensors--since I cleaned them I'm getting the same symptom as you, getting a P0462 code (fuel level sensor circuit low input ) and the needle is reading above max when i fill it up and reading 3/4 when its really at 1/4...I am thinking its just a misalignment because these are additional symptoms that weren't present at all before i messed with it and the reading is consistent with the arm moving as the fuel level goes down...its like its just not zeroed right... I really didn't pay attention when putting it back together and just shoved everything back in...i'm assuming from the code and the symptoms the arm is misaligned where its going past the contacts...
also the AC controller just got delivered a few minutes ago so if I get time I'll try it after trying to align the sender arms...I'll update if I get to it before you do...btw do you have a part number for the driver's side sending unit..the only one I could find on Rockauto was about $216 for an aftermarket piece...which is even more than an OEM replacement of the passenger side with the whole fuel pump
They don't chip easily, but using an impact wrench will ruin the paint over time.
The 35 stands for the length. They also have 45 and they have the 45 with open ends. If you do get them, make sure you get the right thread pitch as they come in two options.
M12xP1.25
Put on a Top Speed Pro-1 Y-back Exhaust. Sounds good and built good enough. Fitment is a tad hit or miss maybe due to having AWD. Touched the small center brace underneath and also it’s close to touching the rear Hochkis sway bar. I also think the heat shield maybe resonating. Ordered some high temp fiberglass wrap and will wrap the exhaust where it touches or looks close to touching.
You can adjust the Top Speed where the mufflers attach to the mid pipe. The holes are elongated to give it play. You may have known that already but figured I'd share. I was running into the same issue for longer than I care to admit before I crawled under the car and discovered I could give myself some clearance from the sway bar.
You can adjust the Top Speed where the mufflers attach to the mid pipe. The holes are elongated to give it play. You may have known that already but figured I'd share. I was running into the same issue for longer than I care to admit before I crawled under the car and discovered I could give myself some clearance from the sway bar.
Good call. That’s probably the trick. Didn’t even think of that. Duh. I was going to reach out and take my car over to them as I’m local to their shop as they offer install service. But, sounds like that will eliminate one issues hopefully. Does anybody make a modified center brace? Otherwise I’ll just wrap the exhaust with the heat wrap where it’s touching. Really like the exhaust sound. Not too loud and not too quiet.
An aftermarket Y pipe REALLY brings it to life and I highly suggest it if you aren't running test pipes. I went with a $100 eBay Y pipe that I reviewed on this site if you want more info. With OEM cat. converters, It just brings the volume up slightly and brings out the low end rumble. No drone and no rasp.
BUT..It will sound like you're skinning a cat if you end up installing test pipes(at least in my case). Can't say what HFCs would sound like so they might produce a better sound. I couldn't stand the tone or the volume; I'm 29 for reference. Might be something some folks like but I made it a few weeks before picking up Vibrant resonators to weld into the Y-pipe.
No modified Mid brace that I'm aware of. I ended up running a washer between the four brace screws and that provided the clearance needed to clear the exhaust. More than enough thread on the screws to bite and hold so no worries there.
An aftermarket Y pipe REALLY brings it to life and I highly suggest it if you aren't running test pipes. I went with a $100 eBay Y pipe that I reviewed on this site if you want more info. With OEM cat. converters, It just brings the volume up slightly and brings out the low end rumble. No drone and no rasp.
BUT..It will sound like you're skinning a cat if you end up installing test pipes(at least in my case). Can't say what HFCs would sound like so they might produce a better sound. I couldn't stand the tone or the volume; I'm 29 for reference. Might be something some folks like but I made it a few weeks before picking up Vibrant resonators to weld into the Y-pipe.
Thanks man, I have been thinking about a Y-Pipe if I decide the volume needs to go up. I could use a few more dB and no sound restrictions here. I did what you did, added some washers to the brace to clear and moved the pipe/muffler connector all the way left as I could. Took a test drive and no rattles/banging that I could hear so I think I’m good. If it still is a problem I may take it to Top Speed and see if they can modify it to clear better. So far I think it’s resolved.
I’ll check out your Y-pipe review. Thanks for the heads up. I have Factory Cats and was thinking someday to put some HFC’s on. Demon bolt is a tad intimidating from what I’ve read about getting it off.
Looking at the review, the product I took a leap of faith and ordered it. Good bang for the buck with all the included materials.
Been a scorcher weekend in Ohio, so it was perfect opportunity to do my quarterly Leatherique rejuvenator oil treatment. Just love this stuff, it’s truly amazing how much grime it’s able to surface.
07-19-2019, 03:17 PM
. A really good friend of mine is a former Infiniti master tech, and he said over 15 years, he changed soooo many of these units. Usually, if they go, they go at about 150-200k km (I just passed 155k km). Also said its 90% chance its the more expensive passenger side sensor. I'm going to play it safe and just replace both. After shipping. its like $250 CAD on RockAuto for both. Not too bad.
Clock light
