Congrats hex, I remember sitting in one when my service was getting done at the dealership. The interior definitely was great just hate the dual screen info.

 

I tuned through Specialty Z with Sebastian! It's an easy process, provided that you have the means to do 2k RPM to redline pulls without alerting the police!

 

I second that motion! Depending on your mod process, I feel that after upgrading intakes AND exhaust, a tune is necessary.

 

Yes John!! you need to get cracking on that tune!!! You're running HFC's and not test pipes, right!?

 

Not fully mine like the G. Went 50/50 on it with my dad like the previous q50. He doesn't drive too much, besides weekends and groceries, so it's nice having something to just haul stuff that's also comfortable that we can both use. Can't wait to experiment with the VC turbo lol. The test drive experience was a little rubber bandy with the CVT and sounded like a vacuum cleaner, but drove really nicely. More sporty than expected.

To get myself back on the "What did you do to your Sedan today?" topic, replaced rear pads and rotors, greased the sways. All nasty sounds went away. Finally.

 

No test pipes... resonated high flow cats (RHFC) from Fast Intentions.

I'm at 43k miles on my original brakes (Akebono BBK), and I'm starting to feel it, so the brake upgrade is happening first. And since I'm planning on the 2-piece rotors from Z1, that isn't going to be cheap and gets in front of the tune on the annual budget.

 

Rochester, you are at 43k on the Sport brakes? As in, the OEM big brakes? Those with OEM pads should run to 75k or more. YMMV with driving style lol.

I second the 2-piece from Z1 if you've got the money for it. Look at Hawk 5.0 or HP+ pads for the bang for the buck. My first brake job on a new (to me) car is usually hawk pads, stainless lines, rebuild calipers if i can get the kits, and decent slotted rotors. It USED to include a switch to ATE superblue but gosh-darn FVMSS got me...

///WAITAMINUTE - ATE superblue is discontinued *in the United States*
/// is it available in Europe?
/// Going to Germany this winter - aside from my normal hardware-store purchase of metric drill bits, do I need to stock up on Superblue?

Customs always gets a kick out of my suitcases coming home. Car parts, tools, wine, and we send most of our dirty clothes back via mail.

 

Correct, 43k on original Sport Brakes, pads & rotors both. When using them gently, there's a noticeable pulsation that's been growing over the last 5K miles. That, coupled with hats that are starting to rust, and vented edges that look like rusty pooh... I'm inclined to schedule next year's mod for brakes. So it's an upgrade for looks, weight and performance.

Could I clean or turn the surfaces of the rotors I have, sand & paint the rust, get new pads, and then drive off into the sunset? Well, yeah, I suppose. But that won't feed the mod monkey.

 

I always feel that plain rotors in a nice wheel with large brakes are just not appropriate. Visuals only, sure... but then again, I didn't buy a WRX, I bought the pretty car.

Also - food for thought: https://www.adamsrotors.com/193552/0...wakebonos.html

 

You should do just that. I tackled my front brakes after feeling some pulsations. A big thanks to my friends at Nissan for turning these for me.
I always paint rotors on all of my vehicles. I kind of hate the process because of how time consuming it is.
So one of them says to paint them while they're there. I immediately refuse due to how time consuming it was. He tells me it'll be done in 10 minutes and only use 1/4 of a can. I accepted the challenge.

He was right. He painted the rotors on the machine while they spun. Took about 10 minutes and 1/4 of the can
Here's the results:

 

Congrats on the new ride, Andy. Just curious to know if you actually drove the QX50 before buying it? I only ask because I rented one not too long ago and was extremely disappointed in it. I think the CVT transmissions in that model is one of the worst transmissions I have every driven in a car. The engine has a nice power band and the car drove really well, but that CVT really killed it for me. I really hope your experience with it is better than mine!

Also, let me know if you still want me to look for those Hotchkis bushings for you.... I wasn't able to find them this past weekend, but I think I remembered where I put them. LOL

 

I'm going through this process as we speak right now. Remote tune seems the easiest... Luckily I have a high way onramp that is long enough to get those 2k to redline runs and no cops sit there.

 

I've heard great things about Specialty Z and Seb but I feel as though if you can dyno tune then that's the way to go. They can dial you in right then and there. Just wondering why you'd go with a remote tune when you probably have a good amount of tuners in your back yard.

 

It's much less expense to street tune. Also, a dyno tune means a few hours at a shop where someone else does all the work. Whereas a street tune gets you personally involved, and the process can take weeks, or longer. Sometimes being involved is the point.

I'm just saying for the sake of saying, because I agree with you. If you have access to a tuner shop in your area, that's the better choice (IMO).

 

I'd totally go with the Z1 rotors vs Adams, which are just cheap drilled blanks and offer no weight savings. You'll feel the reduction in weight every time you turn.

I'd also skip Hawk and look at Project Mu, Endless, and Ferodo pads. The OEM Nismo pads are good, but pretty dusty.