Looks great! Want to do mine next? lol

 

did you use spacers for the STI-R lenses?

 

I wouldn't mine doing it for people but I'd have to charge a bit since it's pretty time consuming

yeah, one spacer brought it up to the exact thickness of the oem lens. cutoff looks nice and sharp

 

Did you just measure or did you fit, test, fit, retest etc?

 

measured it out exactly with the micrometer.

 

Thanks - *that* I have the equipment to do. I wasn't relishing trying to set up the projector on my workbench with a car battery and the ballast to adjust the lens spacing.

 

oh yeah no need to do all that. the retrofitsource includes a pack of spacers with the lenses and just using one of them measured out nearly identical to oem

 

I didn't get mine from retrofitsource - they were out of stock when I bought mine. I can't recall *where* mine came from at the moment LOL but I did not get spacers with them - just the lenses.

 

Just got back from the Dyno. Car did pretty well; a bit better than expected. Solid line is current map, dotted is the baseline:

 

I've never dynod, or have any particular knowledge on interpreting that chart, however the HP gains are between mid-range and top-end. In other words, that means you're dipping into some aggressive throttle in order to really feel it. And nothing wrong with that at all.

What really pops out to me is the rise in torque throughout the entire mid-range. That's nice.

Am I reading that right? Are you happy?

 

That map looks really solid, I guess depending on the mods. BUT I'd be worried about the AFR hiccup at ~6200RPM. Two spikes to lean at full throttle and high RPM are two small spikes away from a broken piston ring. There's a tiny but discernible dip in power on both hp and tq curves matching, so it's not a read error.

I'd guess fuel pump/regulator burp or injector hiccup. Maybe airflow reversion pulse in the intake tract... wouldn't be ignition as you'd read rich instead of lean.

 

I'm new to it as well. I was trying to ask as many questions as I could but I'm very happy with the drive-ability of the car and how it responded. There's no bogging or jerkyness to it and unless you're on it, you can't tell a difference. The breather mods definitely helped open it up but without a tune the car was pulling timing at WOT and running really lean.

Post tune, you can feel it come on at 3500-4500. Before, you could feel that dip at 4500 on the chart before steadying itself shortly then dying out right before shifting. I'm going to guess that's where the timing was being pulled with the stock map. The up shift would then almost hang/delay if pushed to the limit. This was hands down the worst part when going WOT in the 7AT.

Now, there is no delay on the upshifts or a feeling of having to time it so it doesn't fall on its face from hitting the soft limiter. The up shift is very aggressive at WOT and is right back into the power. Power delivery is noticeably smoother and more satisfying to get into than before.

Can't recommend it enough. Once those bolt-ons start working together, you can feel the difference. You aren't going to see insane power numbers but the aggressiveness and power bump throughout the band is a lot more fun to play with vs. how it behaved pre-tune.

On a separate note, the ARC feature for the Uprev program doesn't do a whole lot for auto owners in terms of features but it comes with a simplified timing table vs. a burn chart on the non-ARC version. The timing tables allows the tuner to really dial in what is happening, especially with the VVEL, and maximize what's going on at each section of the RPM range. It's my understanding, the burn tables don't exactly provide enough data to hone in the timing and could leave anywhere from 5-10 hp throughout the pull; essentially, leaving power on the table (pun intended). Basically, for an extra $100.00 it's worth it to allow the tuners to really dial you in; even for auto guys.

 

Looks Good

 

Basic bolt-ons only so I was surprised to see those figures. I was anticipating something in the range of 290-300whp and 240-250 ft. lb. tq after the tune; especially witha 7AT and AWD. AFR stayed in a 'safe' range through out three consecutive pulls so I'm not too concerned with it. The drive with the tuner (John Kerr) afterwards showed all green as well. That said, I'll be monitoring the engine health via blackstone analysis tests for another 10k miles so see what kind of additional wear and tear there is; if any.

 

Have you messed with MAF diameter or throttle bodies or intake manifold at all? Or just intake kit and exhaust?

Depending on the vertical resolution for the AFR chart, that might not be enough to worry about. But it does indicate something is going on, especially if it recurs with additional pulls. AFR should be easy enough to datalog with street driving.

With high-boosted rotaries we'd see that sort of thing when the rotor faces started spontaneously combusting the mixture due to retained heat. Injecting a tiny amount of water or methanol brought down combustion temps a lot and smoothed the curve out. But that was like 20 lbs boost on a car that normally saw 8-10. If it wasn't addressed, eventually there'd be carbon residue on the rotor face that would dislodge at high RPM and eat apex seals and/or turbine blades.