Those calipers turned out great! Looks better than the OEM red paint IMO.

 

Looks like a fun weekend project! You should consider doing a wire tuck and also a good time to detail the engine bay while your at it!

 

Appreciate it! They are no where near perfect and was my first time using a multi stage rattle can system and it was super thing and ran very easily but am happy with the result. When they are in sunlight the anodized effect really pops.

 

Pulled out the two fuel level sensors and gave the contacts a nice cleaning. Filled the tank to the max, and so far, no check engine light. Fingers crossed that fixed it. If not... Going to have to drop some more $$ for new sensors. Along with new front SS brake lines, new rotors and pads all around, and new rear tires... So much to budget for...

 

Blew a strut because of s-tech springs 😬

 

I would have as well if I noticed while buying the car but it wasn’t apparent until I came back to warmer Texas weather and I bought out of state.

It has been ozone treated. The odor is fairly mild now and I’m pretty sure the seat cushions will do it for good.

 

Well, the G37 doesn't use struts. You meant damper.

 

Call me crazy, but I think it even quieted down my exhaust, which doesn't make sense.

Full detail coming up. Have to get the bumper and rear diffuser in for paint first. Also figure out what to do for side skirts/splitters.

 

Most people just call all shocks and springs struts I used to make the same mistake before someone on the forums here dropped some knowledge.

So, it's simple, a strut is integral, a shock and spring are not. The G has springs over shocks/dampers up front and spring on an arm and separate damper in the rear.

 

It's a pointless correction. Kind of like when people complain when someone refers to their wheels as "rims".

Or when someone says their rotors are "warped". That one gets under my skin, but I've learned to let it go.

 

You'll also want to pull the cabin airfilter out, put a/c on full blast with fresh coming in from outside (as opposed to recirculating), coldest temperature, max air flow. Then pop hood and spray lysol (scented) through the intake vents for 30 seconds intervals about 5 times 1-2 minutes apart. Repeat every few weeks for a few months. The whole HVAC system is likely caked with the smell. Then obviously, have a new cabin air filter ready to go in.

Also consider removing seats and center console completely and shampooing carpets, headliner, and any other material sections (e.g. a pillars, etc)

 

So cleaning the contacts on my fuel level sensors did not do the trick. Looks like Im adding another item to my long list of things I need to buy for the car in the near future.

 

I'm dealing with the same issue but been to busy to really deal with it much...I cleaned both of mine recently too...they didn't look that dirty btw (a little black on the contacts but no yellowing on the plastics at all)...now the gauge goes above a max when I fill up...I think maybe I need to do an ECU reset or open it back up and reseat the arms more carefully when I put them back in....I saw some posts by Flipmode007 on here and on G35driver...he did the contact cleaning and then changes his gauge cluster neither fixed it...he then changed the AC controller in the dash with a 20 dollar junkyard piece and reported it fixed the issue after a couple of years of fighting the issue...I think he said he bought extras too ...I ordered one on ebay for about he same waiting for it to come and time to install...I keep forgetting about it cause i dont even monitor the fuel gague out of habit really...I fill up every 2-3 days aftedr driving anything over 300kms...don't know if any of this helps but good luck and keep us posted...

 

I'm excited to hear if the AC controller helps your issue. I have more pressing issues to address before I get to fixing this stuff... My problem is fuel showing too high and a CEL when I fill to the max. When the tank is at 1/4, it still shows 3/4 on the gauge. Seems its the same issue, but different symptoms across different cars. Mine had no yellowing at all, Shell gas ftw . A really good friend of mine is a former Infiniti master tech, and he said over 15 years, he changed soooo many of these units. Usually, if they go, they go at about 150-200k km (I just passed 155k km). Also said its 90% chance its the more expensive passenger side sensor. I'm going to play it safe and just replace both. After shipping. its like $250 CAD on RockAuto for both. Not too bad.

Right now my maintenance list is:
Front SS brake lines - driver side ss line has the plastic coating sheared off and the steel braid is now sliding inside the metal mounting bracket...
Rear brake pads - passenger rear, one pad wearing unevenly. May need to rebuild the caliper.
New rotors - just time to replace (will do fresh pads once I get there)
Rear tires - love my Michelins, but they do wear... If anyone wants proof of our RWD bias in the X, look at my bald rears lol.
Fuel level sensors

Im sure Im forgetting something

EDIT: OH! I need new bushings for my sway bars. Last few times I had work done on the car, had my mechanic grease them... making sure to tell him to use silicone grease or to leave it alone. He did it, twice. There was some strange feeling in the car that after some research lead me to diagnose bad bushings... I checked with him... he's been using lithium grease, and it damaged the poly bushings... Just ordered my own giant tube of silicone grease, but need to get new bushings now.

 

New shift **** to replace my worn out M one. Sits a little taller and boot doesnt clip on, but I'm not bothered by it enough to replace anything yet.