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Won't the shop blast them first and remove the red? That basic red looks horrible, IMO.
I may try and strip them myself since I have to disassemble them anyways for the powder coater. I’m going to get a quote as well from them to see how much they would charge. A lot of specific solutions for stripping powder coat its just a time consuming though.
Originally Posted by SupraOfDoom
None of the pictures posted so far (including mine) show off the actual red that they are in person. I think they look better in person.
I will agree the red is a lot better in person then what the pictures make them out to be.
Originally Posted by iCrap
Mine showed up. They are even bigger than i thought they would be
I am with you there, pulled out a rear caliper thinking it was the front at first just by how big it was and then saw the front and was like wow.
Got my car dyno'd today for a baseline. Will be adding Admin Tuning 3" intakes & ECUTek tune in the upcoming weeks and will return to the same shop to re-dyno.
Next time I will ask for them to make the torque the same scale as HP and put RPM on the bottom instead of MPH.
Fast Intentions High Flow Cats
Fast Intentions 18" Resonated 2.25" exhaust
3.692 Final Drive
7AT
Stock Intakes
Un-Tuned
Should also be using SAE smoothing, not STD... The latter just inflates the numbers by not normalizing for temp/humidity
Maybe wheel spin or something at the end?.
To get SAE numbers simply multiply your "STD wheel horsepower" number by 0.974 and you will get the "SAE" #.
So my highest run of 285whp STD would be 278whp SAE corrected.
As for the torque signal, I have no definite answer. I did notice that the pick up was having trouble properly reading engine RPM at higher engine speeds. I watched the gauge on the screen lose signal several times during all the pulls.
The gains before and after is what I'm only interested in. It would have been nice to have the numbers set to SAE, but before the test started I completely forgot to ask them to change it and only noticed it after I got my print out. If I ask them to do SAE next time I go back than it won't be a accurate comparison from my baseline run, so I have to stick with STD for now.
The gains is what I am only interested in. I would assume when I go back to re-dyno for post intakes/tune on the same dyno jet and gained +20whp it would also read as +20whp gain in SAE reading if I did both baseline and post intake/tune in SAE.
^^From my motorcycling days I vaguely recall the std/sae difference being 4%.
None the less, you're right, before/after comparison is what matters here. Ideally it'd be nice to retest under similar conditions as the baseline test. Also, even the peak numbers have little meaning, more so the [hopeful] shift up in the curve. I remember making some drastic changes on my concours 1400 - removal of secondary throttle plates, exhaust and tune. The overall effect was ~20 ft lb increase in torque in the low/midrange and about a 15hp gain across the board. Those secondary throttle plates there to protect the rider really corked the engine up. End peak result (sae ) was 150hp/100 ft lb at the rear wheel. Not bad for a #700 bike.
I don't have a true baseline for the bike because the slipon exhaust and powercommander were already installed, along with a slightly modded base map so I could ride the bike to the tuner (some 200 miles away).
Still, low end gains were impressive, ~15 ft lb torque at low end, and ~7hp increase across the board). This made for a *VERY* interesting ride home. Got the worst mpg ever on that ride.
Won't the shop blast them first and remove the red? That basic red looks horrible, IMO.
Just got off the phone with the shop, told me for them to strip and change the color it would be $60 a caliper. Wont even test stripping myself at this price.
Just got off the phone with the shop, told me for them to strip and change the color it would be $60 a caliper. Wont even test stripping myself at this price.
$240... damn, that's awkward. I can't imagine it looking good painting over their already powdercoated pieces, which looks somewhat thick and crude.
Didn't someone comment how the retailer would sell unpainted calipers if asked, but at a mark-up?
$240... damn, that's awkward. I can't imagine it looking good painting over their already powdercoated pieces, which looks somewhat thick and crude.
Didn't someone comment how the retailer would sell unpainted calipers if asked, but at a mark-up?
I had one shop quote me $175 per caliper for strip and re coat. I dont think I would recommend painting over this surface at all. I remember seeing some rear un coated calipers on the site but they were like $150 more. Didn’t see fronts when I was looking.
Just got off the phone with the shop, told me for them to strip and change the color it would be $60 a caliper. Wont even test stripping myself at this price.
To re-paint, just lightly scuff up the paint with a scotch pad and paint over it. I did not have to use high heat paint since the base high heat paint was mainly intact.
I had one shop quote me $175 per caliper for strip and re coat. I dont think I would recommend painting over this surface at all. I remember seeing some rear un coated calipers on the site but they were like $150 more. Didn’t see fronts when I was looking.
3 years ago or so, I had a local shop give me a quote for painting the calipers. High-temp paint of my choice, not powdercoat, and done on-the-car, by masking the hell out of everything. It's a reputable shop, and they do high-end cars (Astons, Lambos, etc.), but still I was thinking at the time I'd prefer if the calipers were powdercoated while off-the-car. Anyway, they wanted $600 for the whole job, 90% of which is probably prep work. That felt a little high (I was thinking $400), and I never pursued it again.
) was 150hp/100 ft lb at the rear wheel. Not bad for a #700 bike.
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