What did you do to your Sedan today?
The previous owner had partially rounded the nut off and didn't leave much for the socket to grab. I heated the driver side up to get it off. I am sad at how scratched up the shock tower is. Would have a 6 pt socket impact work? I wonder if that could have saved my time and effort?
Latez
Latez
Took it to Nissan for a brake/tranny/power steering fluid change. I just don't have the time. Got a Sentra rental 
Also should have jumped on that damn track day when I saw it. I'm on the reserve list

Also should have jumped on that damn track day when I saw it. I'm on the reserve list
Had a local muffler shop weld in the Vibrant 1790 resonators to complement my Tanabe axle back. Wow. I'm in love with how it sounds now. It's exactly what I wanted under load and absolutely zero drone at highway speed.
2 door lock actuators replaced under warranty (get the extended warranty, this repair would have been $1100). Parts were $700 and I had a local Nissan dealership do them. Seems early for them to start dying in my opinion, at 86,000 miles.
Edit: it's a 2012
Edit: it's a 2012
Got the word back from the dealer. Can't believe my brakes didn't last a year! Pads down to 1-2mm and my front rotors are toast. Like I said I'm doing a track night at the beginning of May... recommendations on pads/rotors for 99% aggressive street/1% track? And what is the right bedding in process?
Pretty sure each brake pad manufacturer has their own bedding-in process recommendations, even though they're all mostly the same. Accelerate quickly up to highway speed, then hold the brakes hard without triggering the ABS and without coming to a complete stop, rinse/repeat a recommended number of times, then let them cool down.
My old mechanic used to use an IR gun (thermometer) to verify all the rotors were at similar temps.
I don't have any recs for pads, but Slartibartfast and 4DRZ track their daily-driven sport sedans, and I'm sure they have opinions. Last I recall, Hawk HPS are still considered an upgrade without excess noise or dust.
Soon enough. Maybe today.
You know, the boot is unremarkable. Better than nothing, and better than the re-appropriated vinyl shift boot that I had these last few years. But not really a big deal. I think the psychology is the same as my leather armrest lid cover... you really don't see or notice it when driving, or getting in and out of the car.
My old mechanic used to use an IR gun (thermometer) to verify all the rotors were at similar temps.
I don't have any recs for pads, but Slartibartfast and 4DRZ track their daily-driven sport sedans, and I'm sure they have opinions. Last I recall, Hawk HPS are still considered an upgrade without excess noise or dust.
Soon enough. Maybe today.
You know, the boot is unremarkable. Better than nothing, and better than the re-appropriated vinyl shift boot that I had these last few years. But not really a big deal. I think the psychology is the same as my leather armrest lid cover... you really don't see or notice it when driving, or getting in and out of the car.
Last edited by Rochester; Apr 3, 2018 at 09:23 AM.
I run the Hawk 5.0 pads. Most people wouldn't want them for mostly street driving. Squeal when cold (hardly more than the stock Akebonos) and groan when coming to stop when warm. Once bedded, though, you're dropping an anchor!
I didn't bed them enough before my last track day, Splitter was following me in the first session and said my front brakes made impressive smoke. That and the cool-down between sessions did the trick.
I didn't bed them enough before my last track day, Splitter was following me in the first session and said my front brakes made impressive smoke. That and the cool-down between sessions did the trick.
Yep, I got the 5.0s. I had the HPS for the street and they were OK. Really didn't notice any noise. Maybe the pad grease did the trick. Supposedly Centrics come already bedded and I got the heat treated rotors for the front. Hopefully that does the trick and keeps my annual brake job to pads only.
Looked for a body shop, Got keyed to death, every panel except roof. might as well get the whole car painted.
Wonder if I can buy my own paint and have shop do it. Still labor that would need to be done anyway..
Wonder if I can buy my own paint and have shop do it. Still labor that would need to be done anyway..
Damn man, who did you **** off!
seriously though, sucks cause keying almost certainly requires new paint (ii'm yet to see one that was shallow enough not to), maybe consider a vinyl wrap if you are paying out of pocket instead of a full repaint
seriously though, sucks cause keying almost certainly requires new paint (ii'm yet to see one that was shallow enough not to), maybe consider a vinyl wrap if you are paying out of pocket instead of a full repaint









