No, but they're in the FSM. There's a torque notation on every bolt.

 

Not today, but yesterday I got a rare boost of motivation and actually installed my metal undershroud that's been sitting in my apartment for over two years. It's been a struggle to actually get out and install the stuff I bought for it when I first got it. I still have a pile of gktech goodies, some SPL and voodoo13 stuff, as well as a new brake kits, new front axles, and top side engine gaskets and whatnot.

 

So today I found the source(s) of my rear clunking noise. One of my rear adjustable sway bar end links was pretty loose. I also figured out that neither the I stall ship, nor my alignment shop noticed my camber arms weren't adjusted or even torqued down correctly. I expected that from the sway bar links, but not from the dang suspension arms. Guess I won't be going back to either of those shops.

But I was productive nonetheless today. I removed my old cheap-o adjustable camber and traction arms, as well as my old stock toe arms, and installed the new gktech arms. also installed the gktech diff brace. Tomorrow I need to do FUCAs, RUCAs, rear drop knuckles, and front tie rod and sway bar end links. Then everything should be ready for the new wheels and tires as well as a full alignment. I also need to evaluate my rear sway bar links to see if they need to be replaced. I forget the brand, but they are pretty skinny, and I kinda wonder if they're up to the task of linking my bar with my massive ride height drop. I might have to splurge on the SPL or voodoo13 ones.

 

Reinstalled my P2M rear sway bar end links today. I had removed them to clean and inspect them while installing some new suspension arms. I left the sway bar disconnected for a couple days, and it was terrible. I thought the knocking from the loose end links was bad, but it has nothing on the rattling of a disconnected bar, lol. The rear end didn't feel right, either.

Good news is that my new tires arrived at the shop today, and they confirmed that they won't have a problem stretching the 275/35s over my 19x11s. Gunna go get those installed after work so I don't have to drive any more on my donut.

 

I removed my rear hubs, knuckles, and upper control arms. Got a bit of a late start though, and I didn't have time to reinstall anything before it got dark. New gktech drop knuckles and upper control arms are going on tomorrow, along with new pads and rotors.

 

Got my xS coupe back from the alignment shop today. It drives straighter than it has since before I bought the car. But the shop totally messed up the SPL high-misalignment bumpsteer correction tie rod end link installation orientations, so the car is going back to the shop on Friday.

 

I finished a few installs on my 2013 S coupe 6MT this week. Here is a list of what I did with some of my thoughts.

- Clutch pedal return spring replacement with lower spring rate. It was an easy install and the improvement in feel was decent (10% - 20% if I had to put a number to it), I don't think I'll be itching for an upgraded clutch pedal assembly any time soon.

- ISR Y pipe. A few weeks ago I got a Beluga Racing Y back exhaust (~$530) that is originally made for the 370z, however it is offered for the G coupe with the addition of an extension pipe connecting the Y pipe to the mid pipe. Initially I was running the OEM Y pipe and this was somewhat hacky given the inlet diameter for the BR exhaust is 3" versus the smaller OEM Y pipe outlet. In general this exhaust is pretty modest, but with the OEM Y pipe I felt like it needed maybe 10-15% more volume for it to be perfect. With the ISR Y pipe ($250) installed the sound is both deeper and just a little bit louder, and I'm very pleased with this setup. With my butt dyno it also seemed like throttle response and/or mid range torque had improved making the car feel more responsive.

- OEM 370z front springs. I kept mulling over getting Swift lowering springs but I couldn't justify spending $400 on them given how much time/money I had been putting into the car since getting it (ask my wife). Despite this I wanted to do something about the front wheel gap and after doing a bit of research learned about the 370z springs. I found a pair of front springs on eBay for about $60 shipped expecting a drop between 0.5" to 0.8" based on what I had read, and I was prepared to cut the rear spring perch in case the springs dropped even more. Me being a cheap ***, I chose to reuse the front struts and spent a couple of days installing the springs. After one side was done I tried to compare it to the other side and couldn't see any difference... welp. I trudged along, got the other one done and was pleasantly surprised to see both fender gaps reduce by enough to make the front and rear fender gap difference virtually indiscernible, which was ultimately my main goal. As far as how it feels to drive... I would say the car feels just slightly more taut (in a good way) but ride quality really doesn't feel any worse. For $60 and being sore from the install, I'm really happy with the results. Note that using brand new 370z replacement front springs is also an option and inexpensive (~$40 each non OEM) but I opted to go with what folks have already reported on. I don't think an alignment is in order, but we'll see.

Pics:

Top right is more zoomed in, makes the gap look bigger. Front still has a hair more gap vs rear, but it is much improved.

Link to a shot of the car before the front spring install. I'll try and get a similar shot of after.

- OEM replacement pads and rotors (Callahan aka PowerStop). Since getting the car in January I've noticed a slight vibration during moderate/hard braking but it hadn't bothered me a whole lot since it was minor. Initially I bought an R1 concept brake kit (rotors, pads) for ~$500 but ended up returning once I inspected the brakes more closely and saw that they were in decent health (aside from the slight vibration...). As time went by I got more and more bothered by the worn and rusty looking rotors, and with the vibration rearing its head every now and then I decided to look into brakes again. Found this OEM replacement kit for around $260 and went in. I installed these right after installing the 370z springs and the install went mostly fine, except when one of the mounting bolts decided to cross-thread on the passenger side rear caliper. I was mad lucky that I had the right M12x1.25 tap and die from when I lifted my Accord a few months ago and was able to recover with a bit of reworking. Another snafu was that I forgot to take out some brake fluid and the pressure from calipers during the pad change caused it to spill from the reservoir. After a mild panic and frantic cleaning I think I'm good. Its a bit early to comment on how these brakes feel given that they aren't broken in and it was raining on my test drive. I should say that I skipped on bleeding the brakes so I may do that but would likely just have a shop do it.

I really wanted to take care of the rear axle click, I bought some Honda Moly paste to follow the TSB instructions until I remembered that I had to loosen the axle nut. Didn't feel like making the trip to get the big socket... perhaps another day.

 

 

Very nice. Calipers look fantastic there in yellow over those 2-piece rotors.

Didn't want to dress the tires for you pic? Years ago I bought a 19" version of this tire shield thing, basically a big plastic cover with a center handle. It makes application of tire foam or tire shine so-o-o-o much easier.

 

Those wheels are a perfect match. I've tried to find a pair without road rash and its difficult.

Once repaired, the Hyper Silver finish never looks right as its hard to match.

 

They say because from the factory the paint on hypersilver wheels have lead in them that gives them that special look. But American paint doesn't contain lead so it never looks the same.

 

Hey Rochester, Thanks. I like the yellow too! I honestly forgot to get some at the store after washing my wife's MDX Type-S and then my car. I literally thought I need to get some but old brain syndrome. Unfortunately the previous owner just painted them and the paint is starting to chip off on the back and front in places. I need to get them powder coated and look for the shield.

 

Interesting. Where did you learn this? I love the color, but it is impossible to match.

 

Multiple wheel repair shops.

 

Finally decided to fix my rear bumper and do a little surgery on it. Used some plastic weld to fuse it back and decided to do a respray. First time and it came out well I think. Need to clean up a few things for it to be finalized but I am happy with how this took shape.

How it started. Bumper ripped off due to excess drag at high speed and unknowingly being attached poorly.

Did some surgery and decided to keep the "scar" Chicks dig scars :-D

Dont mind the mess.

Mostly finished product. Need to clean up the rest of it underneath.