Got state reffed

anyone know if i can just replace the ecu to pass the test or wtv then swap it back to my tuned one?

 

When you change the ECU, you have to initialize the NATS system and register (program) the VIN or the ECU can't communicate with the other systems in the car.

 

Last night I received and installed an RJM clutch pedal assembly. Super annoying to do because of the tight space, to the point that I doubted it was even worth it… well after the ~1.5 hrs I was able to test drive and was convinced that it was worth it.

On first impressions, it makes the clutch feel a bit lighter to disengage — a plus in my book. I also felt that the friction point was much closer to the bottom of the pedal travel, also something I prefer. I mostly followed the install instructions but probably have a slightly different result than expected due to the way install went for me (didn’t count clevis fork threads), however I made sure to heed all of the clutch safety considerations so I’m not too worried.

In short, it’s easier to shift more quickly and more smoothly, and for a car like this it’s a must-have for long term enjoyment. I could imagine falling out of love with the car simply due to how it can sometimes feel difficult to drive smoothly with the stock pedal.

Aside from the RJM pedal, about a week ago I attempted to fix my rear axle click by pulling the axle nuts off, pushing axles back and coating the splines/mating surfaces (per TSB) as well as I could with Honda moly paste. I had heard of other potential solutions such as the Kawasaki castle nut but in all of the installs that I saw online, each of them also used some kind of grease for the axle so I wasn’t convinced that the different nut was actually necessary. After all, it probably would have been called out by the manufacturer if it was. I was a bit lazy and didn’t disassemble anything else in order to get good access, so I was concerned that the click would still be there. Fortunately the click was fixed.

Last of all, I went and removed the Brass Monkey from the wheels. I liked how well it covered the imperfections of the factory wheels but ultimately I think I prefer the contrast with the Black a bit more. I’m going to ruminate about whether to get the wheels refinished or to get a new set of wheels with the proper width and offset in order to ditch the spacers. I’ve spent enough money for now though, so it won’t be for a while. 🙂

I’m really happy with the car now, it drives great, sounds and looks good, and feels really solid. Couldn’t help but take this pic at work earlier this week.

 

This past Saturday night while driving home I noticed the cruise control would not SET. It would turn ON but I could not SET the speed. Ugh, here we go, I thought. It was 2am so I didn't care to delve into it until the next day. I knew it was not the Q60 steering switch(es) as they are next to new and all other functions work, as intended.

Anyway, next morning I found these pieces on the floor mat:


Long story short, the little "pad" that actuates the cruise switch "plunger" broke into pieces. We have plenty of threads on these pads affecting the brake pedal switch causing limp mode, brake lights constantly on, etc. So, I went ahead and ordered three (3) replacements: one for cruise, one for brake (it was very loose and would have eventually broke anyway), plus one spare. All three (3) + expedited FedEx shipping for $18.


Parts arrived this morning and went to install only to be greeted by this SOB sitting right under the driver door:

Welcome to the country, "y'all." Sorry, I can deal with NYC wharf rats better than these go**amn things...

Parts installed in less than 5min., cruise is up and running as is everything else. Now to other maintenance items on both the G and the Zed/4...

As my car is now 17-years-old it was only a matter of time before those pads failed. For anyone with these older cars, stay on top of these items. These pads, the infamous heater hose connector, windshield cowl seal, sunroof drains, etc. are all easy fixes IF tackled PRIOR to their failure but can be a costly and painful lesson if you habitually "kick the can."

 

it appears, sir, that the head of your snake has become separated from its body. Was not sure if you were aware that this had happened : )

 

Who do you think chopped its head off? I'm in the sticks... I go nowhere in my yard without my old, very old, bush axe:

 

Hey Mate, i see you mentioned altima paddles and was just wondering if you fitted them to replace the oem ones or if you retrofitted them?
any pics of the install? as im looking to do something similar

cheers

 

I just placed an order for a set of Enkei NT03+M in 18x9.5 +27 with the SBC finish (Special Brilliant Coating) and a square set of Hankook Ventus S1 Noble2 in 255/45r18. I got everything for a pretty good price all things considered, though there is a 2-3 month wait for the wheels. With the NT03s weighing in at 20 lbs, the total weight up front should turn out 3-4 lbs lighter per corner compared to stock (despite much wider tires) and the rear should turn out about 5-6 lbs lighter. I imagine this will provide some improvement in driving dynamics all around and I get to stick with Enkei. I'm going to go on a limb and call it OEM+ (cosmetics aside). I don't really drift but I like to peel out every now and then, so I'm wondering how this setup will fare in regards to traction. Total diameter will increase but its negligible (<1%), although for a moment I kind of wanted to go a bit larger in diameter since my speedo seems to be reading fast by some 3-5%.

According to my research, I'll have to run a ~5 mm spacer only up front to clear the brakes but its a big improvement over the 25 mm spacers I'm currently running (all around) with the stock setup, haha. I'm still not sure whether I want to lower the car any further, with the 370z springs up front I think it looks "factory perfect" but sometimes I itch for a slightly more sleek look. The Tein H-techs are pretty inexpensive, I might just swing for a set of those to try out even before the new wheels. Edit: I just made an order for Tein H.tech springs. I realize they have fairly low spring rates compared to swift and stock. In theory this would provide more grip at the expense of handling feel, but I’ll give a review once I get them on the car, let it settle, and do an alignment.

Once I get the new wheels I'm going to move my original sport coupe 19s with the new Hankook Ventus2 Concept2 I got in February over to my 2017 Honda Accord Hybrid. Not sure what I'll do about the center cap but it'll be a massive upgrade cosmetically to the EX-L hybrid wheels...

 

What did i do today. Washed the wife's new car and washed the old car. We bought a brand new 2024 IS500. Our 2009 G37S Coupe is going to be going up for sale. So I cleaned it and took all the pictures. I posted it on Facebook market place and will eventually post it here but i have to make the mandatory number of posts. It going to take a while as I don't have lot to add to most discussions. As it was my wife's car she was not into modifications so it still factory original. Most recent service repairs were battery and the front under tray plastic broke free and I bought new one. That was funny day wife called me to say she thinks she has flat tire but no warning from tire pressure sensors. However the car is making this banging/flapping noise. Needless to say I had to go get her. She drove the LC home and I drove her car straight to dealer. Only other repair like that since 2009 was leaking of oil from the front timing chain cover. That was fixed unde


r extended warranty.

 

Is this leak related to the gallery gaskets? I wonder if they replaced them while they were in there. When do you reckon that was done?

Also, how many miles on the car? It looks like the interior is the stone color, is that right?

I’ll be curious to see what your for sale post looks like when you get there! The car looks to be in great shape.

 

132,000 miles.

No work has ever been done on Gallery Gaskets that I remember. Just cam/timing chain cover had small leak. This was fixed when we still lived in AZ so before 2016. Paper work might still be in car but I did big paper flush a couple of years ago as stack was getting to big. Car was purchased from Scottsdale Infiniti and serviced their and later Camelback. Once we moved to TX it has been Austin Infiniti and most recently Georgetown. I never like working on it I could not get my floor jack under it. Also I think when we bought it we prepaid for 3 or 4 years of service. I service my 1997 Toyota T100, 2016 Toyota LC200, and my 2012 Honda ST1300A motorcycle (plus two boats and motors and trailers). So the Infiniti and now Lexus will go to dealer.
The part that always amazed me is my wife got 40K miles per set of tires. The original Bridgestone's had 90day warranty and most of people that we talked to that had similar car were getting less than 30K. Bridgestone stopped making that tire and replacement and install is Bridgestone Potenza RE050A. The front brakes lasted past 100K and then got redone. The rears are still factory but are down to 4 or 3 mm and need replacing. It was next on my list of maintenance items.

Color Code A54 Vibrant Red Trim W Stone (last time I bought new floor mats I could not get Stone color and had to settle for some other color that does not match but they are still Infiniti floor mats).

 

Went for my 1st drive today and I got to say I'm soooo happy! I started getting tired of working on car but this drive made me realize why I do this... I love driving G35/G37's!

 

Did my front wheel bearing. Must say that it was pretty "easy". The hub bolts weren't rusted so that was good. Just a tip. Just take off the caliper with the pads inside. Just don't have a brain freeze like I did and step on the brake pedal to start the car with the caliper off. Just leave the car running so you can turn the wheel to get access to the bolts. And pay attention which way the shield is mounted. Had to take the hub out again because I put it on backwards. And just buy the oem hub. I bought a Dorman hub and I'm getting some vibration at speed.

 

Had to replace my driver-side last month. Agree that it was relatively easy. Job well done.

And, +1 for OEM just avoid the "Infiniti Advantage" labeled units as they have a history of whining and vibrations.

 

Avoid Infiniti Advantage anything. Learn from my mistake of being cheap. The front and rear shock are garbage.