Tried to sell without fixing leaks. No one would touch it so put in new power steering pump. Now I need to figure out why third brake light, brake lights stay on and car starts without holding brake pedal. Pretty sure bad switch. How do you change? Does it need to be a $50 one or is an $18 one good enough?

kinda don’t want to sell, forgot how good this thing sounds!

 

Installed a volt meter / multi charging port where my cig lighter was.

 

I changed the 2 air filters and the cabin filter.

 

I scheduled some dealer service for the 1st, and realized I need to get my butt in gear for the stuff I'm not having them do. Planning a 1500mi road trip in November, and I'm on the hook for installing these new front axles I have. Dealer is going to be doing plugs, valve cover and oil galley gaskets, plus the 90k service stuff.

 

No damage. Pulled with Durango. Just need to finish interior and a whole bunch of other pr





ojects

 

Installed new LED fog lamps. I went with the laminX yellow film for now.

 

I brought the coupe into the dealer this morning to get new front axles installed. They gave me a brand new QX50 loaner, and man, does this thing suck. Not sure if it just has **** tires, but the front end just understeers and plows like it was working a field. Does it even at low speeds.

 

Went to pick up my coupe from the dealership mechanic and was greeted by a Service Engine Soon dash lamp (misfire bank 1, with no actual misfires). So the coupe stayed so the dealer could figure out what they ****ed up, and I swapped my QX50 7at loaner for a Q50 sedan. At least the new loaner is a nicer drive than the crossover.

 

More comfortable than the G and the power even in the base model seems to be delivered seamlessly, but that damn steering feels like it belongs in a Honda Pilot.

 

Can someone tell me why there are two screens in that car that both show the same thing? lol

Engine light was a false alarm. The tech went back through and unplugged/replugged everything and the code went away, and there was no misfires detected during live driving diagnostics.

 

Finally put ARP wheel studs on the back

 

I adjusted my RJM clutch pedal from the default 75% AFP to ~30% AFP. After a few months I kept finding myself releasing the clutch pedal thinking I was out of the modulation zone when I wasn't. I had tried using the 0% AFP setting (closest to stock) and thought it was slightly too on/off so ended up at 30%. So far it feels like an improvement but I still need to adjust to it so time will tell. I'm glad I get to make all of these adjustments but its a bit of a chore dialing in the inputs for smooth take off and shifting.

 

Installed my new z1 phone mount. super easy once I figured out how to pull the bottom panel of the console out with the tools I had. Took all of 15 minutes and his a huge QOL improvement.




Getting myself psyched to do subframe bush collars and my diff bushing. I think these are the last suspension components I'll need for my build. My diff removal/install tool should be arriving tomorrow, and then I'll just need to grab a tranny jack from HF and I'll be geared up.

 

Annual oil change on the G (6,805mi. interval) and on my beater pickup truck (5,199mi. interval).

Was going to do the BMW as well but bad weather rolled in... but, there is only 4500 miles on that oil and its not due until 5000mi.. Plus, I have to change the belt, tensioner, and pulley so may as well make a day of that ordeal.

Exciting, isn't it?

 

Ordered new nuts and bolts for the diff bushing job. Didn't realize that the hardware connecting the three diff flanges are all one-time-use. Stealership parts dept said most people reuse them. and z1 said the same, but the FSM and GKTech both say "nay" to reusing the old hardware. Better safe than sorry, even though those double bolt-hole washers are like $25-40 each. Wtf is THAT about?