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My coupe is creeping up on 100k (we're at 95.5k right now), and I've decided to take care of a bunch of maintenance items, and also do some more suspension upgrades to try to correct my terrible bumpsteer and my equally terrible rear camber (around -4 degrees).
The list is something like this:
full brake job
all fluids replaced
valve cover gaskets
spark plugs
R&R passenger front cv axle, possibly driver's too (have both)
bent bumpsteer correction tie rod ends
gktech FUCAs with more adjustability than the Godspeed crap i have now
gktech full rear kit with more adjustability than the Godspeed crap i have now
diff bushing
diff brace
subframe bushings
Got the last of the parts in today, and of course, my preferred shop is booked until the end of October.
Damn you, Track Season! /s
Looks like I'll be learning how to DIY more stuff on the car soon. I'm pretty sure i can handle the gaskets, spark plugs, brake, and possibly the cv axle. I've heard the passenger side is the worse of the two, though, so not looking forward to that.
Had my alternator replaced Saturday at Goodyear auto for less than $600. What in the hell is wrong with Infiniti? Bastards charging almost $700 after tax for the part plus about 4 and a half hours labor!!! Not to mention around $300 for their battery. Called 3 different dealers and they all were $1250-$1450 for the job. I see that's Infiniti way of saying don't even bring your car in for service if you aren't under warranty. Volvo had a thing, don't know if it's still does, where if your car was something like 10 years old or older you would get a 20 percent discount on service. Nissan and Infiniti needs something like that.
Hello from Australia with a RHD Skyline coupe imported from Japan
After 2 years of waiting and stockpiling parts, redid most of the suspension setup - coils, arms, braces, swaybars, end links, bushings, wheels, tyres, rotors, lines, pads
I would strongly suggest that while you are flushing the coolant system consider replacing the plastic heater hose coupling with a metal unit. This plastic connector has a high failure rate with these cars. Being that the cooling system will already be drained makes for a perfect opportunity to tackle this before it breaks and leaves you in a pickle.
I would include replacement of both the upper and lower radiator hoses with OEM rubber hoses and also include replacement of the thermostat. In addition, replace the PCV valves (2) and clean the throttle bodies.
Finally got around to swapping out my '08 headrests and installing a Bose set from a 2010 'vert.
And, before you folks start flaming at me, let me say that I am NOT a audiophile. For my listening needs- and for as little as I actually drive the car- the Bose system is fine.
I assume the speakers don't work do they? And do they look bulky in person?
Excuse me for being so stupid. Someone as stupid as me might have swapped just for the looks. What do they plug into to get the sound?
It is not like that, mummy2. Don't take it so personally and, PLEASE, do not use the term "stupid." Your contributions are just as welcomed as most on here. For the record, most of my mods are for "aesthetic/ ambience" or "creature comfort" goals and work as intended.
The headrest speakers tap into the outputs at the Bose amp for the rear/ side armrest speakers. This "blends" the rear sound and moves it forward slightly without having to over adjust "fade." I do not ever have rear passengers so this "additional fade" allows me to hear better (especially dialogue and sound effects) especially when I have the sunroof open. Of course, the newer-style air deflector helped a ton with wind noise but that was a separate mod.
I have zero interest in researching, shopping, and installing custom audio equipment. Kudos to those that do, but the Bose system is fine for my needs especially with a car that is rarely driven. I can always unplug the rear side speakers down the road and bring the full rear sound to the headrest speakers or swap in a Bose amp from the 'Vert to take advantage of the true Bose "AudioPilot" system. Right now neither is being considered.
Last edited by ILM-NC G37S; Sep 5, 2023 at 10:55 AM.
I would strongly suggest that while you are flushing the coolant system consider replacing the plastic heater hose coupling with a metal unit. This plastic connector has a high failure rate with these cars. Being that the cooling system will already be drained makes for a perfect opportunity to tackle this before it breaks and leaves you in a pickle.
do you have any pictures of where this is located? I’m new to cars and would appreciate any tips on how to do this.
