LightsOut

iTrader: (7)

I just bought this kit.. which leather cleaner should I use

DI Packages Interior Starter Kit | Detailed Image


edit:

nevermind I found my answer on page 5

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

The stock Porter Cable pad is not the same as the white LC pad. You choose the better of the two options by using the backing plate and LC pad. The only recommendation I have for that PC pad is if you wanted to polish your exhaust tips or something. It is pretty abrasive (not the same level of cut as LC white) and it doesn't work well for finishing the paint. At one point when we sold the PC's we took those pads out so our customers wouldn't use them but it became too time consuming to do and other people wondered why they couldn't use the buffer out of the box. If you have some metal to polish, that would be my suggestion.

If your leather is in good shape, Poorboy's Leather Stuff should do the trick. If you have a tricky stain you cannot remove, then you could always try the 303 Cleaner and Spot Remover. Either one should do fine, but the Leather Stuff is more of your all in one maintenance product.

Thanks for your support!

George

philter25

iTrader: (4)

Great info, thank you Sir.

So I have another question. So we had some friends over this past weekend and they all saw my car and loved it.

One of my friends had some a-hole push a shopping cart across the side of their car and it scratched it up... a lot. So he was wondering if I could try to buff a little of it out. There are 2 or 3 specs where its through the paint, so theres nothing I could do about that, but I was hoping you could recommend a polish based on some pictures.

I only have the menzerna P203S and the PO85RD, and both of these Im assuming are waaaaay too fine to work on scratches like that.

What would you suggest? Should I get the menzerna medium cutting polish? Even if I cant get out every single scratch, I think they would be happy if I could just get rid of a lot of it. If so, whats the difference between the Menzerna Intensive Polish and the Super Intensive Polish? Or do I need to go even heavier than the Menzerna medium cut polishes?

Also, when you just have a section of the car that needs a heavier polish, is it OK to only do that section with the heavier polish, and then do the entire car with the fine or finishing polish?

Also, im trying to decide between a few products and was wondering your opinion and pros and cons:

Quick detailer: Poorboys spray & wipe vs. Optimum instant detailer and gloss enhancer vs chemical guyssynthetic QD. I would use it as a clay lube and instant detailer (Im sure all would be fine as a clay lube). Is one more streak resistant than the other? Does one leave the car looking deeper than the other? I read the chem guys has static properties that repel dust. Does that really work?

All purpose cleaner: Megs APC D101 vs. Megs APC plus D103. I read people use these for pretty much everything.... but Id be looking to use it mainly on wheel wells, wheels, tires, and exhaust tips. Are they both safe for exhaust tips and rims? I see people using the APC on the tires and wheel wells, and then the P21S on the rims and exhaust tips. Is that overkill or would the APC be fine to do all of the above? Whats the difference between the D101 and D103?

Do they both work as well on the interior? Both of my cars have leather seats, and currently we are using leather wipes which dont work as well, so I was hoping to get an APC that pretty much cleans what its name implies..... all. Exterior and interior.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Good questions... What I'd recommend doing instead of getting another Menzerna polish, invest in the Meguiar's M105 polish. This is an outstanding compound that would be able to tackle nearly any type imperfection, then you can finish down with the two polishes you have after to restore the gloss and depth and remove any hazing or marring. Here's a great write-up on how to properly use M105 (and M205). They are different than the Menzerna polishes in that they don't use diminishing abrasives so you're level of cut almost directly relates to how much pressure is applied and you want to back off to finish as you are going. You also use more product than you would the Menzerna polishes, but the article explains all of that. With those 3 polishes and the proper pads, you should be able to tackle almost any type of paint.

As long as you finish down with a polish for the entire car, you can spot treat areas with a heavier cutting polish. You always want to try to use the least aggressive polish to get the results you are looking for, so if you don't need a compounding step, skip it.

Between those three, I personally enjoy using the Optimum Instant Detailer the best for a QD and clay bar lubricant. Of them work well, they are some of our best sellers. You get more value out of the Optimum product since it's a concentrate you dilute down 3:1, so the 32 oz size makes a gallon (note the 17 oz isn't a concentrated formula since it's ready to use). Also the ability to wipe away streak free with a clean towel every time is huge for me. The pleasant smell is a bonus too!

There isn't much difference between the D101 and D103. The D103 APC+ is a lower sudsing formula which works better in carpet extractors for professional use. Both products when diluted down to the proper ratio would work fine for all of your intended purposes. Always start with a weak solution when using an APC on your wheels since you don't want to risk oxidizing or ruining the finish. If you have after market wheels of a nicer finish, I wouldn't recommend using an APC on them. Honestly, your best bet for wheel care, is to use simple soap and water and keep the wheels protected with something like Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant. This is the safest and most effective way to clean if you keep up with things.

Let me know if this answers your questions for you... Keep us posted on how things turn out and what you ended up using.

tomb18

Can anyone tell me the difference between Menzerna Power lock polymer paint sealant and FMJ? Which lasts the longest? Can both take a layer of wax over them?
Thanks

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iTrader: (2)

From experience, FMJ is a very easy to use sealant, looks great and is very slick, but it doesn't quite last as long as other ones on the market. I just recently applied the Power Lock so I cannot comment on the durability yet, but I'd venture to guess it's going to offer longer durability than the FMJ. I'll report back when I have more time under my belt with the Power Lock.

Either product can layer a wax on top, but should be done 24 hours after the sealant has cured on the paint.

Hope this helps.

George

Juank 6MT

Hey Guys !
i like to know if you guys can help me out with some swirl marks that the detail guy left on my car!!!
I have a Obsidian Black and he said that dark colors are most reflective to swirl marks, so i like to hear from you guys if there is any solutions???
Thaks.

tomb18

Thanks George. I've heard that FMJ gives a really nice finish. Is the power lock comparable?

I have another question. One reads a lot about all these products and techniques but how does one prepare a car for them? I see many detailers using tape on trim. Is this necessary? What about using a machine polish? Is it ok if it overlaps plastic trim or glass? Or should these be masked? Lights as well? What about under door handles?

Afterall, these are details of the detailing!

Thanks

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Unfortunately, if the guy left behind swirl marks or buffer trails or holograms in your paint, he's not an experienced detailer. Those can easily be corrected with the proper tools, products and techniques. Depending on the type of imperfections will determine what level of correction is needed and what type of polishes and pads would need to be used. For a better idea of what happened to your paint and how to correct it, I'd recommend reading over our polishing how-to guide. Your options are to take it to a more experienced detailer or correct it yourself.

To prevent future swirls and imperfections from forming, you're going to want to invest in some quality washing and drying products and follow proper wash techniques, especially since you have black paint. This is where a majority of imperfections stem from. Check out this washing, drying and waxing kit if you're in need of a new setup. It's easy to do and quick if you follow these directions.

If you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

Power Lock definitely has a nice finish. I personally used it on an Athens Blue G and was very impressed. Here's a recent article from one of our pro's who was reviewing Menzerna Power Lock on a few different color cars.

Some advice that will go a long way in almost any aspect of detailing... It's much easier to prevent a problem than it is to correct one. Is taping necessary? No. Is it recommended? Absolutely. No matter how good you think you are at controlling a buffer, you'll inevitably damage something at some point in your detailing days, it happens to the best of us. I'm guilty of it myself in my earlier days, but as you get more and more experienced, you'll realize that the extra 30 mins to tape up a car is worth it for the few times a year you are polishing. I usually don't tape up for a sealant or wax job, but you certainly could for maximum prevention. Most products won't stain trim if you remove it quickly and if you get your application down right, you should never run into too much excess product caking up say an emblem or something...

Hopefully this helps clear some things up for you. If there's anything else I can help with, please do not hesitate to ask.

George

SM_Shadowman

Hi George:

Thanks for all the info & discount codes. I just took the plunge and got an order of supplies from DI. I plan to wash, clay, and sealant my car this weekend.

I got the Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant. When applying this, how long should I leave it on before I buff dry/wipe it off with a microfiber cloth? Is it better to finish applying to the whole car and then wipe it all after a certain time? Or should it be wiped right away?

Thanks!

LSUtigerME

Hey George,

Thanks for the amazing amount of information. I'm not an avid detailer, but I do love my cars. Your site, and this thread has given me a wealth of information. I just ordered an array of products from you, looking forward to them coming in.

I have a new car, so what I'm planning to do within the next couple of weeks (exterior wise):

Wash/Dry
Clay (Fine Grade)
FMJ Sealant
Wait a day
FMJ Sealant (new wash/dry if car is driven)
Wait til next weekend
PB Blue Paste Wax (I couldn't spring for the Pinnacle)
Wait a day
PB Blue Paste Wax

My car is Blue Slate, so I hope this should take care of it very well. It's a third vehicle, so I only intend to do the full detail (clay) once (maybe twice) a year, with a sealant application once a quarter, sealant/wax twice a year. I also purchased the OPT Spray Wax to maintain in between.

I picked up the Lexol Cleaner/Cond. to take care of the leather, and some 303 Protectant and Fabric Guard to care of the other items. I plan to do the interior soon after I receive the products. I park in a garage at home, but M-F it sits in the sun at work, and it get's pretty intense during the summer here.

How's this routine/products sound? And what's the best way to prep the car for the sealant and sealant/wax application without doing any clay (ie. to strip the existing wax/sealant)? Isopropyl Alcohol/Water 50/50 mix?

YeeP

George: I just read through approximately the first 40 pages of the thread. Many people ask similar questions but not exactly what I wonder, so here goes. My experience in automotive is from the wrench side, and not the detail side, so feel free to talk to me like I am 5 years old, I want to do this right.

My car is 5 days old. The paint has not been damaged by some person doing a bad job waxing or polishing it. It is the liquid platinum color with the stone leather interior. I do not see why I need a porter cable if I don't need to buff out any "damage" is that true?

That being said, I would like to purchase all new products for each step you list here:
https://www.myg37.com/forums/1851878-post10.html

I was looking at the "wash kit". Lots of options. Any tips would be appreciated.

Also, this is my first car with leather, and with any type of touch screen computer. If you can point me in the direction for items to purchase for those I would be most appreciative.

Thank you,
Ryan

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Typically what I do when using Blackfire Wet Diamond is apply the sealant to the entire car then go back and remove the entire car using multiple plush microfiber towels for maximum results. Once a towel becomes saturated in product, it tends to streak or you have to continuously re-wipe so I usually use 3 - 4 towels per coat I'm removing for optimal results. There isn't really any benefit of doing it this way over removing it panel by panel, it just seems to go smoother when you do all of the application followed by all of the removal rather than alternating the two. Some products you cannot do this because the removal becomes too difficult, but not the case with BF Wet Diamond. Keep us posted on what you think!

Thanks for the post and support, greatly appreciated

Your time frame and routine sounds spot on with the details, sounds like you did some homework.

The 303 Aerospace Protectant will be good to help prevent drying and cracking of your interior as well as prevent UV fading.

To strip off previous coats of protection, the easiest way is to wash your car with a stripping shampoo, such as Chemical Guys Citrus Wash. You can perform an isopropyl alcohol wipe down, but you'll still want to wash the car, so you can kill two birds with one stone by investing in a stripping wash. We offer 3 stripping shampoos from Chemical Guys, but the one I linked to is the most effective and you use the smallest amount of product to do so.

Everything else looks great though, you should be very pleased with the results. Once you get done, be sure to keep us posted on how everything turns out. I'd love to see some pics of your work if you get a chance

Hey Ryan,

You're right, there is no need to invest in a PC until you are ready to correct the paint.

Since your car is brand new and in good shape, you won't need to work as hard to keep it that way if you start off on the right foot with everything. Here are some new car essentials that I'd recommend:

Washing and Drying Starter Package - will give you everything you need, except 2 buckets, to properly wash and dry your car without adding swirls and other imperfections.

You could also look into a foam gun if you wanted to take your wash step even further. It will allow you to pre-soak the vehicle which can help prevent adding imperfections since the shampoo can begin cleaning without touching your wash mitt or sponge to the paint to do so. It also adds a fun factor into the wash

Optimum Protectant Plus - this is a perfect product for your interior leather, vinyl, and rubber surfaces. It has some mild cleaners and leaves behind a matte finish with UV protection. This is a perfect maintenance product for your leather, door panels, dash and console.

For your navigation screen and gauges, I'd recommend Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer along with a plush microfiber towel. The slightest mist of product onto the towel is all you need, then wipe the surface as gentle as possible. Flip to a fresh part of the towel and buff streak free, again using as little pressure as possible.

Some other essentials for a new car I'd look into...

Poorboy's World Wheel Sealant - this will make caring for your wheels significantly easier if you apply a coat or two every couple months. Brake dust and other contamination with fall right off with normal shampoo and water.

303 High Tech Fabric Guard - if you protect your fabric carpets and mats right from the get go, you'll help prevent staining and keep them looking newer longer.

A quality sealant would be ideal to apply for maximum protection. A couple of my personal favorites are Blackfire Wet Diamond, Optimum Opti-Seal and recently I've been testing Menzerna Power Lock (on sale as our April monthly special) with excellent results as well. It's too new to rate it on durability, but so far I'm pretty impressed.

That should get you started in the right direction. If there's anything else I can give you a hand with, please do not hesitate to ask.

Enjoy the new G!

George

SM_Shadowman

Thanks for the input. Well, I did this on Sunday before I got your response, but we did it pretty much the way you said. I went to my father's house and we washed my G and his 280SL. The Blackfire sealant dried pretty quick, so basically wehn one person got about half the car waxed (sealanted?) the other started buffing with the microfibers.

Car looks great! I finally had it looking good enough for a few pics which are in my profile now. I also used the poorboy's bold and bright tire dressing which is a nice product.

After washing the paint on the car actually didn't seem very rough or contaminated to the touch. I even used the plastic bag test and didn't look troublesome. But since I've read what everyone says about new cars and rail dust, and the car is nearly 6-months old, I went ahead and clayed it anyway. Man, what a difference! I predict pretty soon I'm going to be washing fingerprint smudges off the finish because every time I go out to the car now I run my hand over the body to feel how awesomely glassy it is now!

Thanks again! One more minor detail question though. Is there anything special you do to launder the foam wax sponges, sheepskin mitt, and tire dressing applicators? Basically I soaked them in water and rinsed as well as I could and just let them dry, but I'm not sure if there should be anything else I can do; the foam sponges seemed to retain a lot of the sealant even after rinsing them out.

Detailed Image

iTrader: (2)

Glad to hear everything turned out great for you, the car looks sharp! It's tough to make white look good but you did a great job.

You did just about everything I will do for the applicators, except I'll mix some all purpose cleaner in there while it's soaking. This will help release more of the product from the applicators. I'll let them soak for 15 - 30 mins, take them out, wring them out and work my fingers through them trying to get as much product out, then re-soak them. I'll repeat this process a few times. After the wash step, setup your buckets with water and the APC mixture and after you use an applicator pad or towel put them in right away to start soaking. The longer you wait, the harder it is to remove everything thoroughly.

I wouldn't do this with the sheepskin wash mitts, I simply take a hose of free flowing water and let it rinse through it for a while, then let it hang dry. Run it over the Grit Guard a few times prior to giving it the final rinse to help release contamination.

Hope this helps answer you questions. Let me know if there's anything else I can give you a hand with. Keep up the great work

George