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Hoping I can get some help. I've got a 2010 G37 black that now has over 100K miles on it. I drive a lot obviously, 90% highway and very fast. I noticed about 2 months ago that the front end is pitted pretty bad (really lot's of small paint chips, but very small). Is there anything I can do make this look better or is repainting the best way to go ?
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From: Albany, NY
Greg,
I have a 2012 Vibrant Red G37 Vert that is our "fun" car for nice days and weekends. I gave in to the dealer's sales pitch and paid them extra for a "nano coat" sealant for the paint and wheels (haven't found out the brand yet - two-part mix took 2-3 hours to prep & apply). It comes clean with plain water washing, but it's never really been dirty - came off the showroom floor with 1 mile on the odometer and I've gotten caught in a light rain twice going to or from work. The finish has a real nice shine, but I am wanting to get more of a "show car" depth to it. I was thinking of ordering the Menzera Power Lock Polymer Sealant (FMJ?) that seems to be so popular and perhaps applying a good wax over it, but I also ran across the write-up on 22ple VXI Glass Coat and thought that might be a better solution. Which of these two would you recommend to apply over a nano sealant, or is there a different product I should be looking at?
Also, in feeling the finish with my bare finger tips as well as with a plastic bag it seems marginal whether I should clay the finish (almost all particulates there feel loose like dust and are moving around on the surface). If I do need to clay the surface, will that remove the nano coating or shorten its usefull life?
I have a 2012 Vibrant Red G37 Vert that is our "fun" car for nice days and weekends. I gave in to the dealer's sales pitch and paid them extra for a "nano coat" sealant for the paint and wheels (haven't found out the brand yet - two-part mix took 2-3 hours to prep & apply). It comes clean with plain water washing, but it's never really been dirty - came off the showroom floor with 1 mile on the odometer and I've gotten caught in a light rain twice going to or from work. The finish has a real nice shine, but I am wanting to get more of a "show car" depth to it. I was thinking of ordering the Menzera Power Lock Polymer Sealant (FMJ?) that seems to be so popular and perhaps applying a good wax over it, but I also ran across the write-up on 22ple VXI Glass Coat and thought that might be a better solution. Which of these two would you recommend to apply over a nano sealant, or is there a different product I should be looking at?
Also, in feeling the finish with my bare finger tips as well as with a plastic bag it seems marginal whether I should clay the finish (almost all particulates there feel loose like dust and are moving around on the surface). If I do need to clay the surface, will that remove the nano coating or shorten its usefull life?
Great questions here. Unfortunately without knowing exactly what they applied it's tough to answer a lot of your questions. If there was a warranty involved with the "protection" they applied make sure you read the fine print to see what voids the warranty. Unfortunately many of these protection plans can be somewhat of a scam. Often times the protection is very limited and you're really just buying a warranty with many loop holes in it.
Assuming you are okay to care for the exterior and you want to really clean the surface we'll want to do a thorough detail. I'd recommend you wash with the Chemical Guys Citrus Wash to remove any protection left on the surface. Next use the NanoSkin AutoScrub Fine Foam Pad or a traditional clay bar (Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay Bar) to clean the surface.
Since the vehicle is so new you certainly can skip polishing but it is a great step to further clean the surface and make it optically clear for that deep gloss. For such new paint I'd probably just use something like the[*]Commonly used with the Meguiar's Ultra Finishing Polish M205 and the Menzerna SF 4000 (PO106FA) and a Lake Country Black Finishing Pad.
Afterward you can apply the Power Lock or the 22ple products for protection. The Menzerna Power Lock Polymer Sealant is a great sealant offering 4 - 6 months of protection and a great shine. The 22ple is a much more durable protection that lasts about 1 - 2 years and also looks great. The 22ple VX1 Signature Glass Coating is an amazing product that will truly last and it's ideally applied after a full detail such as this. You can't go wrong either way as both are excellent!
If I missed any areas you'd like a recommendation for please let me know!
Greg @ DI
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From: Albany, NY
Hoping I can get some help. I've got a 2010 G37 black that now has over 100K miles on it. I drive a lot obviously, 90% highway and very fast. I noticed about 2 months ago that the front end is pitted pretty bad (really lot's of small paint chips, but very small). Is there anything I can do make this look better or is repainting the best way to go ?
Greg
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Hi Greg,
First of all, what a great service you are providing this forum with your advice. Thank you!
I have hard water. We have a filter on the house and I tend to do a pretty good job not letting the water sit on the paint for any time at all. Predictably, though, I get water spots.
My question really isn't about removing the water spots, however, as I'm able to do that. What I'd really like to know - is there a wash product that I could use during washing that would help prevent water spots from occurring. I'd definitely be willing to come up with a little extra $ for a product like that, since it would save me time removing water spots later.
Thanks for any suggestions you have!
First of all, what a great service you are providing this forum with your advice. Thank you!
I have hard water. We have a filter on the house and I tend to do a pretty good job not letting the water sit on the paint for any time at all. Predictably, though, I get water spots.
My question really isn't about removing the water spots, however, as I'm able to do that. What I'd really like to know - is there a wash product that I could use during washing that would help prevent water spots from occurring. I'd definitely be willing to come up with a little extra $ for a product like that, since it would save me time removing water spots later.
Thanks for any suggestions you have!
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Joined: Nov 2012
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The Optimum Opti-Seal & Free Yellow Foam Applicator may be a good alternative for you. It applies extremely easy and very thin, but the best part is there is NO removal needed. This formula dries clear, looks great and provides solid protection. I also use this on the paint, smooth and coated trim, exhaust tips, glass and more! It's a versatile product I love having around. Just because it's a spray on product don't underestimate it's durability, I estimate it lasts 3 - 5 months on the paint, on the wheels it's less but still very good.
Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.
Greg @ DI
Let me know if you have any other questions and I'll be happy to help.
Greg @ DI
Separate question. is there a specific power washer (or specific ratings of) that you recommend for foaming? I have the Gilmour foam master but wanted something with a bit more power.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Chicago. Where we vote early..and often.
Hi Greg,
One year old 2012 black G37XS coupe. Garage kept at both home and work, not a single swirl mark on the like-new finish.
With winter coming to a close in the Midwest, I'll soon be performing my first detail of the year on the car. This traditionally consists of citrus wash, clay, second wash, pull winter wheels/tires, clean wheel wells/suspension/brake components/etc., mount summer wheels/tires, hand polish, BFWD sealant, dress tires, etc.
I've never used a polisher but am interested in purchasing a 7424 for the polishing. My question is, given the exceptional condition of my paint, do I really need this? Will it make a noticeable difference or am I wasting my money and time? If I do decide to buy one, what size backing plate is best? Which pads are best for polishing?
Thanks! Rich
One year old 2012 black G37XS coupe. Garage kept at both home and work, not a single swirl mark on the like-new finish.
With winter coming to a close in the Midwest, I'll soon be performing my first detail of the year on the car. This traditionally consists of citrus wash, clay, second wash, pull winter wheels/tires, clean wheel wells/suspension/brake components/etc., mount summer wheels/tires, hand polish, BFWD sealant, dress tires, etc.
I've never used a polisher but am interested in purchasing a 7424 for the polishing. My question is, given the exceptional condition of my paint, do I really need this? Will it make a noticeable difference or am I wasting my money and time? If I do decide to buy one, what size backing plate is best? Which pads are best for polishing?
Thanks! Rich
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Joined: Mar 2013
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Gregg,
I was hoping you could chime in on this thread I created about detailing scratch shild paint?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/car-car...eld-paint.html
Thanks,
Drew
I was hoping you could chime in on this thread I created about detailing scratch shild paint?
https://www.myg37.com/forums/car-car...eld-paint.html
Thanks,
Drew
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Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Central Illinois
My question:
I clay barred and waxed. Now I want to go back and do a sealant. How long should I wait for the wax to wear away? Do I need to clay bar again before doing the sealant?
Planning on doing Adam's Quick Sealant. Any recommendations?
I clay barred and waxed. Now I want to go back and do a sealant. How long should I wait for the wax to wear away? Do I need to clay bar again before doing the sealant?
Planning on doing Adam's Quick Sealant. Any recommendations?
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From: Albany, NY
Hello all,
My name is Ivan and I will do my best to help out on the forums for the foreseeable future. Greg the owner has been extremely busy keeping up with the growth of Detailed Image (in large thanks to this forum), but didn't want to keep the forums unattended. I'll try to revisit as many threads and messages as possible, but if I miss something I encourage anyone to either post again or send a private message with any inquiries. I am a professional detailer in the Chicagoland area and I have been working with Detailed Image on a variety of projects for well over 5 years now. You can read more about myself as well as some articles I have written over the years on my profile page of the DI Ask-a-Pro Blog. I'm very happy to be getting back into the forum world and hope to assist many of you with any questions on car detailing products or techniques.
Well anyway, enough about me, let's get back on the topic of car detailing!
Ivan @ DI
My name is Ivan and I will do my best to help out on the forums for the foreseeable future. Greg the owner has been extremely busy keeping up with the growth of Detailed Image (in large thanks to this forum), but didn't want to keep the forums unattended. I'll try to revisit as many threads and messages as possible, but if I miss something I encourage anyone to either post again or send a private message with any inquiries. I am a professional detailer in the Chicagoland area and I have been working with Detailed Image on a variety of projects for well over 5 years now. You can read more about myself as well as some articles I have written over the years on my profile page of the DI Ask-a-Pro Blog. I'm very happy to be getting back into the forum world and hope to assist many of you with any questions on car detailing products or techniques.
Well anyway, enough about me, let's get back on the topic of car detailing!
Ivan @ DI
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 508
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From: Westchester County
Hope this thread is still being watched. I have a stain on my hood from driving under the train tracks. The oil that they use on either the tracks or train fell on my hood while driving. I immediately took it to a car wash, but was unable to get the darn stain out. I tried compound, and wet sanding the hood to get it out but have not been able to get the darn stain off. Am I at my wits end and need to reconsider painting my hood? Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Aug 2013
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Protective film or guard?
I attached a couple of pictures of the areas I am posting about. Is there any type of protective film or other material that I can put on the inner kick plate and the noted portion of the rear side finisher and that guards against scuffs from my kids getting in and out of the back seat?