Ask a Professional Detailer... Brought to you by Detailed Image
04-03-2007, 10:53 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
bwassul - Thanks for providing that information. First thing I'd like to address is the washes. If your last product used is Menzerna FMJ during your full details and you do this twice a year, I'd strongly encourage one of two things:
1) Add a third detail in there. If this is a daily driver, I think you'll have a tough time making FMJ stretch to 6 months of durability. I usually tell customers expect a solid 4 months of performance. On a show car that gets minimal miles, that's garaged, never driven in rain, and gets less than 3k miles per year, then yea maybe you can get 6 months out of FMJ.
2) Invest in an extender to use during washes or every other wash. A great option to maintain FMJ's durability and enhance the depth and gloss is Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield. This product is designed to work specifically with Menzerna FMJ and has the same chemical characteristics so it builds upon your coat of FMJ. I'd suggest using this product after your final rinse down but BEFORE you dry your vehicle. Mist the HGAS on your paint while it is still wet and dry your vehicle as normal. This will be accomplishing two steps in one, protecting and drying, and won't take more than 5 - 15 minutes to add to your normal washing and drying step. This will help get you reach the 6 months of protection you are looking for out of the FMJ.
An ideal situation would be to do a combination of option 1 and 2.
On to the polishes. I typically do not recommend the Menzerna polishes when customers say they are trying to remove scratches and swirls by hand, however with the hand applicator kit I have had good luck with properly breaking down the polish and achieving desired results. With a microfiber applicator pad or a typical soft yellow foam pad, they do not have enough bite to them to effectively break down the Menzerna polishes. I think you'd be pleased with the results, however, I encourage you to keep realistic expectations since you are still applying it by hand. I do think it will noticeably improve your current level of details.
George @ Detailed Image
1) Add a third detail in there. If this is a daily driver, I think you'll have a tough time making FMJ stretch to 6 months of durability. I usually tell customers expect a solid 4 months of performance. On a show car that gets minimal miles, that's garaged, never driven in rain, and gets less than 3k miles per year, then yea maybe you can get 6 months out of FMJ.
2) Invest in an extender to use during washes or every other wash. A great option to maintain FMJ's durability and enhance the depth and gloss is Menzerna High Gloss Acrylic Shield. This product is designed to work specifically with Menzerna FMJ and has the same chemical characteristics so it builds upon your coat of FMJ. I'd suggest using this product after your final rinse down but BEFORE you dry your vehicle. Mist the HGAS on your paint while it is still wet and dry your vehicle as normal. This will be accomplishing two steps in one, protecting and drying, and won't take more than 5 - 15 minutes to add to your normal washing and drying step. This will help get you reach the 6 months of protection you are looking for out of the FMJ.
An ideal situation would be to do a combination of option 1 and 2.
On to the polishes. I typically do not recommend the Menzerna polishes when customers say they are trying to remove scratches and swirls by hand, however with the hand applicator kit I have had good luck with properly breaking down the polish and achieving desired results. With a microfiber applicator pad or a typical soft yellow foam pad, they do not have enough bite to them to effectively break down the Menzerna polishes. I think you'd be pleased with the results, however, I encourage you to keep realistic expectations since you are still applying it by hand. I do think it will noticeably improve your current level of details.
George @ Detailed Image
04-03-2007, 11:15 AM
#47
Originally Posted by darnelled
George,
Is there a product that can be applied on top of a 3m Stoneguard type protectant to enhance the color beneath it?
Is there a product that can be applied on top of a 3m Stoneguard type protectant to enhance the color beneath it?
I've applied Klasse AIO on top of these areas for customers, but it has no effect on imperfections, color, depth and gloss under the film. It can help clean the surface of the film but your still suck with the finish under it. Also, try to avoid getting product built up around the edges of the film, they tend to run, streak, and hinder the appearance of a vehicle if it rains and the build up product trickles down.
Originally Posted by bwassul
Thanks George. What polishes do you normally recommend for removing scratches and swirls by hand?
Like I mentioned before, I think the applicator you choose to use plays a major part in your results when working by hand as it does with a PC. It'd be like buying a Porter Cable 7424 and putting on a microfiber bonnet to try to remove swirls, it probably wouldn't give you the results you'd be looking for.
Hope this helps.
George @ Detailed Image
04-03-2007, 03:30 PM
#48
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Hi George,
Its me again...I plan to detail the G this weekend and was wondering...would it be ok if I washed, clayed the car then the next morning do scratch removal and wax the next day? Or is it best to do the whole thing in one day and then drive around? Thanks again for the info!
Ryan
Its me again...I plan to detail the G this weekend and was wondering...would it be ok if I washed, clayed the car then the next morning do scratch removal and wax the next day? Or is it best to do the whole thing in one day and then drive around? Thanks again for the info!
Ryan
04-03-2007, 04:56 PM
#49
Originally Posted by Infinite1
Hi George,
Its me again...I plan to detail the G this weekend and was wondering...would it be ok if I washed, clayed the car then the next morning do scratch removal and wax the next day? Or is it best to do the whole thing in one day and then drive around? Thanks again for the info!
Ryan
Its me again...I plan to detail the G this weekend and was wondering...would it be ok if I washed, clayed the car then the next morning do scratch removal and wax the next day? Or is it best to do the whole thing in one day and then drive around? Thanks again for the info!
Ryan
Let us know how you make out Ryan! Good luck.
George @ Detailed Image
04-03-2007, 05:38 PM
#50
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Hi George,
I bought a few things from you awhile back (I was waiting for you guys to get the CC RED MOOSE Machine Glaze). Anyway, do you carry Menzerna PO106FF? I didn't see it on your site and wanted to know if you can get it. I think they may be comeing out with a new version of it too. I would like to get my hands on some soon. Also, I like the empty clear bottles you carry, but hate those flip caps. I find that the heavier polishes get stuck in there too easily and it's a biotch to clear em. Do you have any others or are you getting different styles in?
I bought a few things from you awhile back (I was waiting for you guys to get the CC RED MOOSE Machine Glaze). Anyway, do you carry Menzerna PO106FF? I didn't see it on your site and wanted to know if you can get it. I think they may be comeing out with a new version of it too. I would like to get my hands on some soon. Also, I like the empty clear bottles you carry, but hate those flip caps. I find that the heavier polishes get stuck in there too easily and it's a biotch to clear em. Do you have any others or are you getting different styles in?
04-03-2007, 10:42 PM
#51
Originally Posted by Diesel1
Hi George,
I bought a few things from you awhile back (I was waiting for you guys to get the CC RED MOOSE Machine Glaze). Anyway, do you carry Menzerna PO106FF? I didn't see it on your site and wanted to know if you can get it. I think they may be comeing out with a new version of it too. I would like to get my hands on some soon. Also, I like the empty clear bottles you carry, but hate those flip caps. I find that the heavier polishes get stuck in there too easily and it's a biotch to clear em. Do you have any others or are you getting different styles in?
I bought a few things from you awhile back (I was waiting for you guys to get the CC RED MOOSE Machine Glaze). Anyway, do you carry Menzerna PO106FF? I didn't see it on your site and wanted to know if you can get it. I think they may be comeing out with a new version of it too. I would like to get my hands on some soon. Also, I like the empty clear bottles you carry, but hate those flip caps. I find that the heavier polishes get stuck in there too easily and it's a biotch to clear em. Do you have any others or are you getting different styles in?
As far as the flip tops, I keep a toothpick with me and poke it thru when it tends to clog up. I think its inevitable with any small spout. I'd rather it come out thinner so you can really regulate your use.
Hope that helps!
George @ Detailed Image
04-04-2007, 12:13 AM
#52
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I like using the Menzerna PO106FF as well, which I have used on a couple of my friends cars. I have an 07 Lakeshore Slate G35 Sedan, and intend to use PO106FF next time I polish it instead of using a medium polish followed by a finishing polish. I will use a more abrasive polish, if necessary, for spot polishing. When the G35 was brand new, I used a clay bar followed by P21S Paintwork Cleanser, which is a pure nonabrasive polish, and then applied a sealant and wax.
The PO106FF presumably will remove a smaller micro layer of the clear coat than a medium polish, and it is a lot less work than applying two polishes. It is a bit pricey, however. I thought the PO106FF is a relatively new product, in which case I would be surprised if it will be replaced anytime soon.
I am pleased to see Detailed Image as a sponsor on the G35 Driver forum. Even though this is my first post on this forum, I have learned quite a bit from the G35 Driver forum and from George. I have purchased quite a few products from Detailed Image, and have found its service always to be first rate and the products it carries to be the best or among the best available anywhere.
The PO106FF presumably will remove a smaller micro layer of the clear coat than a medium polish, and it is a lot less work than applying two polishes. It is a bit pricey, however. I thought the PO106FF is a relatively new product, in which case I would be surprised if it will be replaced anytime soon.
I am pleased to see Detailed Image as a sponsor on the G35 Driver forum. Even though this is my first post on this forum, I have learned quite a bit from the G35 Driver forum and from George. I have purchased quite a few products from Detailed Image, and have found its service always to be first rate and the products it carries to be the best or among the best available anywhere.
04-04-2007, 01:10 AM
#53
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In Soviet Russia - Zhiguli details YOU! haha.
But really, spring is coming on fast, and i'm interested in doing something nice for my car, but so it would last thru the summer. Interested in waxing it after washing, but would like to use some liquid wax - any good ones? Or should I stick to normal wax job? I never waxed a car before, but would like to try. Should i go for those electric waxers, or do it all by hand?
I know these are noob questions, so go easy on me.
Thanks for any input.
But really, spring is coming on fast, and i'm interested in doing something nice for my car, but so it would last thru the summer. Interested in waxing it after washing, but would like to use some liquid wax - any good ones? Or should I stick to normal wax job? I never waxed a car before, but would like to try. Should i go for those electric waxers, or do it all by hand?
I know these are noob questions, so go easy on me.
Thanks for any input.
04-04-2007, 10:14 AM
#54
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
Diesel1, great to hear from a previous customer. We do stock the Menzerna PO106ff. This is my goto polish when looking for ideal results. I feel it works wonders with a rotary buffer or a Porter Cable. Finest finishing polish I've tested. I'll keep an eye out for the new version of it and can hardly believe you can possibly improve upon the results! haha
As far as the flip tops, I keep a toothpick with me and poke it thru when it tends to clog up. I think its inevitable with any small spout. I'd rather it come out thinner so you can really regulate your use.
Hope that helps!
George @ Detailed Image
As far as the flip tops, I keep a toothpick with me and poke it thru when it tends to clog up. I think its inevitable with any small spout. I'd rather it come out thinner so you can really regulate your use.
Hope that helps!
George @ Detailed Image
I'll try and find the 106FF on your site. If I can't find it, I'll give you a shout or an email. Good call on the toothpicks for the bottles, apparently I've always had a major brain fart when detailing and never thought of using them! *Shakes head*
04-04-2007, 12:47 PM
#55
Originally Posted by Dogged
I am pleased to see Detailed Image as a sponsor on the G35 Driver forum. Even though this is my first post on this forum, I have learned quite a bit from the G35 Driver forum and from George. I have purchased quite a few products from Detailed Image, and have found its service always to be first rate and the products it carries to be the best or among the best available anywhere.
Originally Posted by ilyaat
In Soviet Russia - Zhiguli details YOU! haha.
But really, spring is coming on fast, and i'm interested in doing something nice for my car, but so it would last thru the summer. Interested in waxing it after washing, but would like to use some liquid wax - any good ones? Or should I stick to normal wax job? I never waxed a car before, but would like to try. Should i go for those electric waxers, or do it all by hand?
I know these are noob questions, so go easy on me.
Thanks for any input.
But really, spring is coming on fast, and i'm interested in doing something nice for my car, but so it would last thru the summer. Interested in waxing it after washing, but would like to use some liquid wax - any good ones? Or should I stick to normal wax job? I never waxed a car before, but would like to try. Should i go for those electric waxers, or do it all by hand?
I know these are noob questions, so go easy on me.
Thanks for any input.
What are your detailing goals? Do you have imperfections like swirls, scratches, water marks that you are trying to remove? By properly cleaning the clear coat properly it reveals a lot more depth and gloss in the paint hence giving you much better results. If you are looking for paint correction, I would suggest going with a buffer for maximum results. If you are just looking to protect the paint with a wax or sealant, then you could get away with doing it by hand.
I'd spend a little bit of time reading up on the possible steps and what each product is designed to do then make a more informed decision on which route you want to take. We have outlined the primary detailing steps here in our Automotive Detailing How-To's. Look them over and let me know the answers to the questions above.
Originally Posted by Diesel1
And now you will be hearing from a repeat customer! LOL
I'll try and find the 106FF on your site. If I can't find it, I'll give you a shout or an email. Good call on the toothpicks for the bottles, apparently I've always had a major brain fart when detailing and never thought of using them! *Shakes head*
I'll try and find the 106FF on your site. If I can't find it, I'll give you a shout or an email. Good call on the toothpicks for the bottles, apparently I've always had a major brain fart when detailing and never thought of using them! *Shakes head*
Here is a direct link to Menzerna PO106ff <--- Click
I think the toothpick trick should solve the clogging problem. When you've detailed as many cars as I have you tend to find lots of little tips and tricks.
Let me know if there is anything else I can help you with.
George @ Detailed Image
04-04-2007, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Detailed Image
I've had great luck with both products over FMJ, ideally after you've let the FMJ cure for a day or so.
04-04-2007, 05:20 PM
#57
Originally Posted by LazerRed1
I'm a little confused. I've always heard that you can't wax over FMJ as it will basically take off the FMJ and you'll be left with wax only, or may even cloud up. Is there any way to know that isn't happening even if you let the FMJ sit for a couple of days? Just hate to waste the time and money of FMJ if the wax is just going to remove it.
I will wait at least 24 hours before applying a wax over a sealant and most of the time. I personally just give it a wash a week later then apply my first coat of wax.
Hope this clears things up for you.
George @ Detailed Image
04-05-2007, 11:01 AM
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I also vote for 106ff. I polished my car for the first time ever and was with a PC and amazed how easy it was. Used the LC orange followed up with a LC white. Having the Halogen light stand really showed me how much the polish was removing all the fine swirls. I love my black car again!