Sam

what are your initial impressions so far compared to our VQ?

 

Probably not the best for sound quality but what about the BlackVue DR400G HD II Dash Cam you ordered a while back? (I was looking forward to a review as well)

 

I wouldn't say "extremely" harmful. Yes, the argument is sound, and I've followed that break in procedure with adequate results, but the possible destructive power of over-revving an engine that has just been built like a Frankenmotor, and along with turbos with itty bitty oil passages that can get blocked up with grit, AND a tune that isn't even ready (probably the most concerning part)... I think it makes more sense to take it easy than worry about removing some hone marks and seating rings.

 

Yea obviously the tune needs to be in place BEFORE going WOT for the first 20 miles.

The way i do it is start the new engine idle for 20-25 min until it reached standard operating temperature then shut it off and go back the next day and drain the oil and retorque the head. Then i follow that with my first 20 miles of WOT pulls then i drain and refill the oil...after that point the motor has been broken in and rings should have seated.

The reason why i said extremely harmful because if the tune is too rich the cylinder walls will be washed out with fuel and the rings wont properly wear to the hashing on the cylinder walls and even worse not properly breaking in during the first 20 miles will result in improper ring wear and will result in lower than desired compression and excessive blow by etc....

This is if the OP plans on making big power (500WHP + )

 

Haha man! You had me worried there for a second. I'm pretty sure if I told you the 4" DP branched into 3" pipes you wouldn't have made that comment

Thanks bro!

Temporary indeed!

Thing is, the engine is not built nor was taken apart for this build, the 3k rpm lock is because I want to check for leaks and temperatures before boosting the car, and because Raw Brokerage recommended that I "break-in" the clutch before exposing it to insane torque on the dyno.

The VQ sounded more "refined" I have to admit, the RB is just plain raw & badass which I also love. The pedals and steering are stiffer which also adds to my driving pleasure.

I haven't gotten around to mounting it to be honest, currently focused on getting my car done and tuned. I'll definitely let you know how I like it.

You also need to keep in mind that this engine has been probably sitting there for a few months if not years.

 

Some random updates from today:

So we found out the whining sound was coming from the throttle body flange and not the alternator bushing. Easy fix.

There's still a slight ticking sound in the valvetrain, all the clearances/washers will be measured again tomorrow to make sure they're spot on.

A hydraulic e-brake is also going in there, will be interesting to see where my mechanic will tap into the brake lines since the rears never join.

The swaybar luckily hasn't rubbed over the past two days and she's been in nice dips. I will get it spaced downwards by 10mm anyways just for a peace of mind.

Engine oil will then be drained and inspected, then some fancy oil will go in along with new spark plugs and a battery and then we're off to the DYNO!!

 

NICE!

Add some Royal Purple flux capacitor fluid. Don't forget or your driveshaft will melt.

 

NICE!...ticking might just be lifter tick or a collapsed lifter.

 

Any plans on tearing the motor down and putting in pistons, rods, etc. in the future? And why the hydraulic E-brake?

 

That sounds like either an American product or an American joke, either ways I didn't get it lol

Thats what my mechanic guessed initially, something about clearance being slightly higher than it should be.

Oh yeah, I should be placing an order in the next coming months on some either CP or Nitto/JE (still researching) internals with a customized 9.0:1 CR. These will take some time to build and would make a fun little summer project.

Two reasons:
1) Because racecar
2) Because it's a lot cheaper than getting an MT center console & handbrake and shipping them across the planet from the US. G's here aren't sold in MT's so the dealer and scrapyard don't have these parts.

 

Oh yeah duh I forgot you switched to MT lol.

 

Hmm thats odd...doesnt sound like valve tap right ? do you know if the head was ever milled ? its possible that its out of spec but i doubt that if you say its stock..

Most likely its something simple.

 

i think i missed this but what transmission are you running ?

 

I spoke to my mechanic today and he said the clearance on a few valve was slightly over spec but nothing alarming, he is taking care of it. E-brake mounts have been made on the passenger side. Oil inspection came clean, a little thick due to old oil residuals in the engine but thankfully everything is looking great so far.

@lilwiz, I'm using the 5MT RB25 pull type transmission, there are pics in my first post

 

Post some more pics! Even if they aren't progression pictures. That motor is just too damn sexy lol.