My RB Project, going all in!
Are you reusing the block ? if so make sure you get it THROUGHLY CLEANED i mean THOROUGHLY!! take off all the oil squirters and clean them etc... also if you had an oil cooler make sure you REPLACE it, dont clean it because once you destroy a bearing those metal shavings are everywhere and tend to get stuck in the fins of the oil cooler. Just make sure you get all the oil passages thoroughly cleaned both on the block and the head and make sure you check clearances and torque on rod/main caps, theres a special procedure ARP rod bolts need to be torqued down and also a special torque spec as well...if i was you get ARP main bolts, ARPL19 Rod bolts, and ARP L19 head studs, dont get the cheaper ARP bolts, they stretch @500hp, trust me i know lol.
That bearing is a sign that something somewhere was wrong, looks like detonation judging from the looks of it, i say this because the bearing looks like it was crushed and that is typically the result of detonation.
I crushed a crank main bearing as well as 2 rod bearings as well as OVALIZED my crank journals due to detonation caused by my fuel pressure regulator vacuum line bursting @9500rpm in my evo...and it looked like this.
PS: You should have gotten Wiseco HD or Ross pistons, they are proven to be the strongest type of pistons with the strongest wristpin design, the wristpins that came with your pistons are way too hollow and could be a major weakpoint in your build if you start making power,
Below is an example of what i mean, this isnt a direct comparison but you get the idea. What im talking about is on the left, what you have is on the right.
That bearing is a sign that something somewhere was wrong, looks like detonation judging from the looks of it, i say this because the bearing looks like it was crushed and that is typically the result of detonation.
I crushed a crank main bearing as well as 2 rod bearings as well as OVALIZED my crank journals due to detonation caused by my fuel pressure regulator vacuum line bursting @9500rpm in my evo...and it looked like this.
PS: You should have gotten Wiseco HD or Ross pistons, they are proven to be the strongest type of pistons with the strongest wristpin design, the wristpins that came with your pistons are way too hollow and could be a major weakpoint in your build if you start making power,
Below is an example of what i mean, this isnt a direct comparison but you get the idea. What im talking about is on the left, what you have is on the right.
Last edited by daonlyillwiz; Feb 19, 2013 at 11:03 AM.
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also if you had an oil cooler make sure you REPLACE it, dont clean it because once you destroy a bearing those metal shavings are everywhere and tend to get stuck in the fins of the oil cooler.
Just make sure you get all the oil passages thoroughly cleaned both on the block and the head and make sure you check clearances and torque on rod/main caps, theres a special procedure ARP rod bolts need to be torqued down and also a special torque spec as well...if i was you get ARP main bolts, ARPL19 Rod bolts, and ARP L19 head studs, dont get the cheaper ARP bolts, they stretch @500hp, trust me i know lol.
That bearing is a sign that something somewhere was wrong, looks like detonation judging from the looks of it, i say this because the bearing looks like it was crushed and that is typically the result of detonation.
I crushed a crank main bearing as well as 2 rod bearings as well as OVALIZED my crank journals due to detonation caused by my fuel pressure regulator vacuum line bursting @9500rpm in my evo...and it looked like this.
PS: You should have gotten Wiseco HD or Ross pistons, they are proven to be the strongest type of pistons with the strongest wristpin design, the wristpins that came with your pistons are way too hollow and could be a major weakpoint in your build if you start making power,
Below is an example of what i mean, this isnt a direct comparison but you get the idea. What im talking about is on the left, what you have is on the right.
PS: You should have gotten Wiseco HD or Ross pistons, they are proven to be the strongest type of pistons with the strongest wristpin design, the wristpins that came with your pistons are way too hollow and could be a major weakpoint in your build if you start making power,
Below is an example of what i mean, this isnt a direct comparison but you get the idea. What im talking about is on the left, what you have is on the right.
) so these should be fine. The next time we open up the engine I'm stroking that biatch!Thanks a lot for your informative post
Yes its the oil filters job to take any contaminants out HOWEVER when were talking about tiny shavings smaller than a grain of sand, they can get past the filter, and another thing too im not sure how you have your oil feed line hooked up for your turbo but unless its coming out of the oil filter housing (AKA FILTERED OIL) then its very likely that any shavings/contaminants would have made their way to the cooler through that way. Otherwise you would have very very tiny shavings that may have gone through the filter into the cooler.
Just ask your self this, is it worth risking a 2000$ + motor and your turbo for a 60$ oil cooler ?
Yea i forgot
Good luck with the new build just make sure everything is within spec, make sure machinist checks clearances for the new bearings, sometimes you might need to mix oversized and standard size bearings to accommodate equal clearances for all the rods/main bearings...and also measure the bore on the new block and make sure it complies with clearance specs for the pistons because forged pistons have different expansion rates than cast or different types of forged material pistons. better to be safe than sorry.
ps: really cool to see a real build, i like this type of stuff lol.