Ya walla, a quick way to find out if the engine is timed is by setting it to TDC via markers on crank/case timing marks, make sure cams line up as well and take out the plugs and stick a long flathead down the cylinder, whichever piston is supposed to be at its highest point ie: if piston 1 , 3, 6 are supposed to be at their highest point then that should be the case if it is NOT at its highest point then you are either one or more teeth advanced or retarded with your timing.


Another thing:

Did you correctly bleed the lifters prior to installing the cams and after bleeding the lifters did you put some oil into the slot they go in and if you did that did you ensure the hole on the side of the lifter is facing the correct way (towards oil jet on the head) ?

if you failed to do the above its possible that a lifter was pumped up with air so that when you put the camshafts on the valves pushed out so they are not fully closed...if this is the case you might get lucky and thats what the problem is but at the same time you might have also bent a valve or two because of this, this happened to me on my evo and i ended up with 2 bent valves because the lifter was pumped up with air.


PS: I never had an RB motor but i have 7 years of experience with 4g63 motors and the concept is exactly the same.

 

Thanks man. A leak down test is currently being done on all valves. Hoping its just that.

In the meantime, here's a pic of my intake side:

 

Way too tight DAMN.

If i was you i would send the hotside out to get ceramic coated both inside and outside as well as the exhaust manifold. Also wrap the downpipe as well otherwise your intake will just be sucking in hot air and by the time its cooled by the intercooler it will pass through heat soaked piping and get hot again...especially in the middle east lol.

 

Or just get water/meth injection. Keeps IATs and oil temps down. Problem solved

 

This works but then OP has to invest in water/meth injection kit and has to keep refilling the resevoir whereas ceramic coating is the correct approach.


take for example in a regular summer day in NY where outside temps are around 85, before ceramic coating my manifold and garret gt3582r hotside my underhood temps were at 110* while cruising above 40mph. AFTER ceramic coating the manifold and the hotside the under hood temps were chilling around 90-95*.


ALSO i would use SS intercooler piping instead of aluminum because SS has higher resistance to heat soaking.

 

Put that on pause gentlemen.

The valve issue was fixed, compression on all 6 cylinders is reading between 135 - 150 psi which is great. The car still wouldn't idle properly and the intake is backfiring :s

It's definitely a cam timing issue but my mechanic is saying he's zero'd it out. The base map being used is off the tuners own RB30'd Z.. strange.

 

Well that's some good news at least!!

Glad you dont have bent valves or worse...

 

+1 on coating all the hot parts.

 

Good, but what do you mean the intake is backfiring, nothing should come out of the intake...did you make sure your spark plug wires are routed correctly and also Cam/crank angle sensors are correctly timed (not 180* out of timing). If cam/crank angle sensor is 180* out of time it will cause a back fire when trying to start/idle.


also check base fuel pressure...if you're running aftermarket injectors you cant zero out the tune config because it wont be stock at that point because the injector dead time(time between open and close position) and global value(amount of fuel per squirt) will be different. If you are running the aeromotive stealth FP, you need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and make sure base FP is @ manufacturer spec for the RB motor.

Not sure but since i cant see a MAF sensor anywhere im going to assume you're running speed density so just make sure the MAP and IAT are working correctly and hooked up correctly.

 

SHES ALIIIIIIIIIIIVEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!

DOMO

The battery was getting weak. It was replaced and the engine is now running perfectly.

The mix is a little lean though so the headers started glowing. Tuner will come tomorrow and richen the base map.

All the hot parts will definitely be wrapped, coating may not be as easy to get done here.

 

You missed out on a lot of reading in this thread





Yeah I'm running MAP & IAT, both are brand new. Tuner will do his thing tomorrow.

 

Video ASAP, PLEASE!!!!

 

Nice stuff Sam, if you can ship the parts to the US, definitely use Swain tech, they have by far the best ceramic coating.

Swain Tech Coatings | Industrial Coatings | High Performance Racing Coatings | Technical coatings to solve problems of heat, wear, corrosion, and friction

 

I'm not in the shop at the moment this is all over the phone, I'll be going to collect her tomorrow will sure have all sorts of video's for you

Thanks for the link! I'll see what can be done but honestly, I've had enough down time.

 

No problem dude, trust me man, its worth it you will make more power.