I see that the poke may not be a problem (as much) after all which is good, but there's always the option of decking 3mm off the back side of those rear wheels to add the offset they should have come with. I did it with some wheels in the past and it worked perfectly. It's a simple operation but you just have to find a place that has the capability to do it. Clamp em down to a squared table and let a CNC machine with a carbide bit have at that pesky extra 3mm. It sounds terrifying but it sure beats d1ck1ng with the camber.

 

Someone mentioned that to me when I first got the wheels... You maybe?

I've not forgotten that option, but every fiber in my body is saying "NO-O-O-O!!!" to that idea. These are basic cast aluminum rims, and Vossens dont have a reputation for being especially strong.

 

Yes that was me. I know what you mean though. The very thought of it is an anathema as the curator of such a nice car. But mine were cast too. 3mm off the back of the hub won't affect strength of the wheel.

 

I think I'm going to try this again, this time with 3/8" bushings instead of 5/8".

Energy Suspension 9.6101 Coil Spring Isolators - Style A - 96101 Made by Energy Suspension

Don't tell my wife.

 

Lol, it will be our secret!

Chasing perfection gets to be a full time job yes?

 

Did you already put the 5/8" in or are you changing your plans to go ahead and get the 3/8"?

 

I had the 5/8" bushings installed last week, hence the pic a few posts above. After a few days of freaking out (LOL), it settled into the bushings and top seats to where the height seems nearly perfect, comparing front to back.

However, now the poke is bugging me. And while I knew going into this that there would have to be a compromise, I'm wondering if I might be more happy if it were dropped 1/4". So I ordered the 3/8" bushings, and will see how much material there is to work with, beveling the inside edge. It was only $22 shipped, so no biggie. After that, I may (or may not) swap the 5/8" for the 3/8". That's slightly more annoying, at an hour's labor at the shop.

Compared to CO's, it's a pretty stupid way to fine-tune ride right.

 

I gotcha. if I get another G, which is very likely now, I don't want to get CO's again. I was very happy with my springs except that the rear kind of drooped, a little more than yours before the bushing install. So the inexpensive mod is definitely appealing so I'm curious to see how it goes for you.

 

Why can't we just by the adjustable-height rear springs? A "partial CO" solution. I keep coming back to that idea.

 

That's not a bad idea, are you talking about buying just the a rear set up or something else? Because if you buy 1/2 a CO set up, might as well buy the whole thing. I know most set ups aren't a true CO in the rear, but I think KW and BC (could be wrong) are. KW is quite expensive, but not as expensive as RSR, which isn't a true set up.

 

Even less than half... because I wouldn't be buying adjustable rear dampers, just the adjustable-height springs. Mechanically speaking, it's pretty basic stuff, with a straight-forward installation. After which, I can tweak the rear height to my heart's content.

Just don't know if it can be done. My thinking is, if it's such a simple solution, why haven't I read about it here yet? Particularly with the tendency for a droopy rear on RWD setups. So maybe there's more here than I'm aware of. Might be time for a Noob Question thread, LOL.

 

If you can get the ride dialed in to the height that you want, why still go CO? I remember they were on your long-term mod list. If you're wanting a sportier ride, I think Koni Yellows would be a better solution. Any CO solution would be significantly more drop than you've already got, even with the CO's adjusted to the minimum drop possible.

 

That's true. It's just an idea that I'm curious about. And yes, CO's are on my long-term list, but years out.

https://www.myg37.com/forums/brakes-...-feasible.html

 

I've just heard CO's are a compromise on a lot of levels. Yes you'll get some super adjustable damping, but they're wrought with other issues such as a bigger drop than you might want and all kinds of noises.

I researched it pretty extensively before deciding to pull the trigger on the Koni's, contacting various manufacturers to find out if I would achieve a "Swift-like drop". BC said no and I forget who else I contacted but it was a universal response that I would be a lot lower than Swifts.

I checked out the other thread, and judging from the response I got from CO manufacturers, the answer is you'll have a major saggy bum.

I shelved it and went with the Koni's and have been happy ever since, even on stock springs.

 

Not necessarily, when I had my CO's the rears actually were set higher than they were with my springs. With the springs the rear tires were slightly tucked, but the CO they weren't tucked at all.