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So spot on with this comment. I recently cerakoted my headlilghts and for $20, it came out amazing. Took about 45 minutes start to finish.
Cerakote is starting to become an all around go to for me, From the headlight kit, to the trim restore, to the interior detailer and their rapid ceramic coat and glass kit. It’s all very good and very cheap.
@Rochester Where does one source custom fasteners?
There are specialty retail sites for dress-up hardware, but they tend to be very expensive relative to Amazon and Ebay.
For fender washers (which are countersunk screws with a collar), you literally have hundreds of options. I have 3 black fender washers for the engine cover, and gunmetal finish fender washers everywhere else (mostly on the rad covers). Fender washers are so inexpensive it's almost silly. They come in all kinds of different designs, sizes, colors, materials, finishes, etc.
The two posts at the front of the engine cover, that's a simple titanium washer with a SS acorn nut. I think I bought the acorn nut at Lowes, LOL. Seriously, Lowes, or maybe Home Depot. For the larger bolts on the cross member I'm using titanium Allan heads with titanium washers. I really like titanium.
None of this stuff is complicated or expensive, it just takes some study and consideration. Stare at your engine bay for a few hours and you'll see it.
Here, I put this thread together last year. If there's anything here that inspires you, I get a cookie. Wait... you posted in that thread! Well anyway, here it is again.
Working with a guy I found on eBay that goes by the name of Main Coast Customs to design a custom engine cover. I provided the paint color code for my calipers and he was able to match.
I love how this turned out.
That turned out great! Love the color... looks very similar to the Brembo color from the 350Z brakes.
Thanks guys. I've been in lovely Montreal this week for work freezing my tail off.
I need to get the old cover off and measure the length of the OEM bolts as I don't want something too long that will crack the plastic intake manifold.
Thanks guys. I've been in lovely Montreal this week for work freezing my tail off.
I need to get the old cover off and measure the length of the OEM bolts as I don't want something too long that will crack the plastic intake manifold.
I would still look to eBay or Amazon for hardware, though. And avoid whole engine bay "kits". I'd also recommend resisting the urge to have too many colored bits & pieces pop all over the place. It doesn't look good, IMO. But you can't go wrong with polished titanium. I'm using polished Ti bolts for the larger bolts at the corners, and I think they look classy.
My apologies as I boogered up the initial post. It's "Maine Coast Customs" as you noted (fixed the typo in the post above). $450 is what he charged me as there was an extra $75 to paint match the color. Not cheap, but my OG engine cover is mint, so I'm thinking that I can recoup a little of the money back selling it and shipping it in the box Maine coast customs provides. New the covers are $250ish, so I'm guessing that I could get around $100-120 on FB as mine is better than new :-)
My apologies as I boogered up the initial post. It's "Maine Coast Customs" as you noted (fixed the typo in the post above). $450 is what he charged me as there was an extra $75 to paint match the color. Not cheap, but my OG engine cover is mint, so I'm thinking that I can recoup a little of the money back selling it and shipping it in the box Maine coast customs provides. New the covers are $250ish, so I'm guessing that I could get around $100-120 as mine is better than new :-)
$100 with the Fuji intact is a very pay-it-forward moment. And yes, that looks in better than original condition. Super clean cover you've got there. It would be a very quick sale.
Just dropped her off for 15 mm spacers all the way around, front wheel bearings, and brake fluid change.
Waiting on the paint for my rear spoiler, chin, spoiler and window trim and hopefully can get that done next week to wrap things up.
Make sure they use an anti-seize that helps prevent Galvanic Corrosion (caused by dissimilar metals). Mine were pretty bad when I removed them after a few years to turn the rotors.
Also, hand torque the wheels vs. using an impact gun as the IG will sometimes crack the aluminum spacers.
$100 with the Fuji intact is a very pay-it-forward moment. And yes, that looks in better than original condition. Super clean cover you've got there. It would be a very quick sale.
5-6 strategically placed dabs of liquid nails on that logo as well, so it's upgraded :-)
Regarding pre-packaged HW, I really want to support small companies like this one that provide products to the community, but $55 plus tax and shipping seems excessive and makes me feel like I'm aimlessly pissing money away: https://fastturnfittings.com/collect...ium-engine-kit
I would still look to eBay or Amazon for hardware, though. And avoid whole engine bay "kits". I'd also recommend resisting the urge to have too many colored bits & pieces pop all over the place. It doesn't look good, IMO. But you can't go wrong with polished titanium. I'm using polished Ti bolts for the larger bolts at the corners, and I think they look classy.
Completely agree on too much of a good think destroys the effect as I see this happen alot with Carbon Fiber as well. From a design perspective, there needs to be a centralized focal point (engine cover) and the surrounding area should simply be complimentary and not detract you from the centralized theme. That's just how I see things. Others may see design through a different lens. Stainless HW is very complimentary and cohesive with my metallic theme (Carbon, Aluminum, Chrome, Copper, Silver, Carbon Fiber).
