OK, GTK. Thanks, mummy.

 

Gunmetal duckfeet. Nice.

 

My guess is that they use an outfit like Cardone for Akebono cores: https://www.cardone.com/brakes/disc-...EBrake-Caliper

When you see replacements online at places like Rock Auto, they are often using Cardone as a source.

 

That color would look nice on a white sedan.

 

What are the practical differences to us the end users as far as forged vs cast, if anyone knows?

 

Forged aluminum is stronger, lighter, and less brittle.

So for arguments sake, let's say you shave a pound on each caliper when forged instead of cast. Because the caliper isn't a rotating mass, it really doesn't matter. Now let's say you drop 10 pounds each corner between the rotors, wheels and tires... that makes a big difference.

I wonder how Z1 would answer that question? I think forged calipers make for good marketing, but that's about it.

That said, I've been wrong at least once today. I'm not proud, LOL.

 

Surprised I don't see more folks adding these ZSPEC "Stage 2" Dress Up Bolts® Fastener Kits to their cars: https://zspecdesign.com/products/sta...t-g37-q50-vq37

I would probably avoid using the ones on the engine itself (i.e., cam covers) and as fasteners for ground wires, but the ones around the periphery look tasteful if your engine bay is clean.

This thread seems to justify some of my concerns regarding the use of the fasteners on the engine itself and ground wires: https://www.myg37.com/forums/general...-failures.html

 

Job done!

Interestingly, a lot to dissect from the outcome of this project.

Regrets, misses and what I would have done differently:
1) Z1 studs that came with 10mm spacers were too long for the oem lug nuts. Surprised at Z1’s miss here.
2) I regret using the Z1 rotors and not going with black hatted Stoptech rotors. This project would have looked much better with the black hats, but would have cost significantly more. To buy just the Z1 calipers would have been $1100 and I got the calipers, 4 rotors and pads for just 250$ more. Would have been close to an extra $1000 to get black Stoptechs and Hawk pads.
3) I should have installed braided lines at the same time. These are now on order from Z1 and will be done.
4) Could have easily gone with 15mm spacers instead of 10mm, but pretty much a push here. The 10mm still look much better than stock.
5) Z1 ceramic pads are not bad, but not as good as the Hawk HPS option (but again these pads were like $250 more expensive to upgrade).

The really good:
1) The appearance of the Z1BBK is awesome. Fills out the wheels nicely and looks top quality. Great match with my gray duck feet.
2) Love the spacers. Looks so much better and the wider stance may provide some better handling (see below). I don’t believe I actually needed the spacers for caliper clearance however. As big as those calipers are, it looks like they would have fit even without the spacers.
3) Dare I say I’m saving the best for last??? The new oem wheel bearings are a frickin’ night and day difference. My old ones were very rusty and noisy and the new ones are quiet as can be and the car coasts so smoothly and effortlessly compared to previously. You may all think I’m crazy, but I swear the car feels faster with the new wheel bearings, like 30hp of drag was removed by putting in the new bearings and I swear it feels like the transmission is more “sorted” - is it at all possible that the speed/abs sensors in the rusted hubs could have been sending weird information to the ecu if the hubs were differentially degraded??? Anyways, who knows, but…
4) Got yellow LED fogs in as well - I love the look. They look great on the G.

Will try to attach some additional pics (for some reason I’m getting a file size violation message for some photos that I’ve never gotten before.

Overall, a great upgrade for certain. Certainly have some minor regrets and things I would have done differently in a perfect scenario, but overall 98% happy. Biggest regret is not getting the black hat rotors…they would have looked awesome. Can I live with this??? Ugh

 

Oh, and I did dial out a bit of negative camber from the front. I feel like that (perhaps along with the extra width from the spacers) has made the front end turn in much better. With the high negative camber the front end almost turned in too quickly. Now the steering feels really good all the way around,

 

@JZ39 give the rotors time to "season" as once they weather a little and a oxidation forms in the normal spots, they have a very authentic OEM look. Faded jeans and a casual button up shirt look; OEM+ is the art of looking unintentional. As such, the tuxedo cost adder for the black hats is tough to justify.

I am graduating from ceramic pads to EBC Red Stuff and will let you know my thoughts. 15mm spacers all around are unassuming, but I almost wish I ran 20mm in the front. Reasonable spacers should be one of the first mods for these cars. Still loving the powder coated duck feet. Kudos for pioneering that movement.

 

Most enthusiasts promote more negative camber in the front, but the turn in is quick and feels more Gran Turismo than I prefer. Staggered wheels/tires and spacers when lowered correctly balance over/understeer in a manner which feels very complimentary on the FM platform. I run the rear negative camber at the upper end of the coupe spec. with the front in the middle, but the day-to-day feel is very agreeable. My wife describes my car as knowing where it wants to go before you turn the wheel. This platform is so tunable its ridiculous. Sad to think its living on borrowed time.

 

Good call out! Hadn’t thought of that, but makes sense.

The Z1 ceramic pads are good - the initial bite is not as much as whatever pads were on the car previously, but once you give a bit more push they do dig in quite nicely. I also need to run through a mild bedding in procedure as well tomorrow which will likely help a bit. I’m wondering if old brake lines might also be more noticeable on a BBK and perhaps I can get a bit of bite back when those get done as well.

And you are so right about the borrowed time. That’s why I went in on this car - I knew it was among the last opportunities I’d have to experience peak automotive goodness, including hydraulic steering. I watch all of these car adds for suvs etc with all sorts of turbocharging and can’t help but wonder why anything but the big suvs would need a more complex or powerful engine than a 3.7 VQ? The FX (QX) with the 3.7 is plenty fast with power to spare.

 

Congrats on a project well done. I agree about the rotor hats... would look better on your setup if black. Meh, minor nit.

BBK upgrade and new bearings, must feel great.

 

Couldn’t put it a better way.

Making the car better/yours with zero intention for anyone else to notice. It sure ain’t for everyone. Especially as the G has become the de facto car for the look-at-me crowd



Man that looks great! And I relate to all of your post-upgrade analysis, the what-ifs, etc. It’s the journey, not the destination, as they say

 

Thinking about the Nismo Sway bars as I am assuming they fit our cars.

Here's the vitals (in mm)...

Stock 370Z
Front: 26.5
Rear: 24.2

370Z Nismo
Front: 27
Rear: 25.5

370Z/G37 C&S RWD (Stillen)
-Same outside diameter as Nismo, but stiffer vs. stock 21-48% FRNT and 37-70% REAR
-Interestingly enough, the IPL's bars are also the same as Stillen and the Nismo Z

G37 Sedan Sport Model RWD (same as the base 370Z)
Front: 26.5
Rear: 24.2

For reference, AWD sedan
Front G37 AWD sway bar diameter: 31.7
Rear G37 AWD sway bar diameter: 17.5

Based on this information, wouldn't the Nismo bars be a step up from the G RWD Sport bar setup, the same way it's a step up from the base 370Z?

https://www.ebay.com/str/cyberautopa...at=31461395012

And another set that's reasonably priced: https://www.ebay.com/itm/267017280595