You know, after sleeping on it a night I think there was chance the reservoir got too low and might be the reason I have air in the system (it went a little below minimum one time, and mostly likely when I applied the brakes the fluid went down initially just enough to get air in there. Rage. Sick of dealing with it so time to go get buttraped by the dealer.

 

Not feeling good about your Infiniti dealership, eh? If that's the case, it's worth the effort networking your location for a good shop. If not for this job, then future ones. A trusted mechanic is a priceless relationship, just like any specialized service that exceeds DIY skills, but even more so when there is a hobby component to your car.

Without any immediate contacts, I recommend you shake the tree for local Nissan owners and clubs; or more specifically the 370Z community, if there is one.

 

Very true but I called a few shops and a lot of them didn't sound too confident in getting the job done. Anybody in the houston area know a place to get brake bleeding done?

 

Z Club of Texas

I didn't lurk to see if there's anything of value there. Just pointing out research options.

Essentially, find out where the local Z gear-heads go, then go there.

 

I can bring my power bleeder by and we can knock it out in 30-40 min! I'm actually going to be out in Katy this Sunday too.

Edit: Wait nvm, I forgot I have to take the kids to see YGG on Sunday as well and will only be in Katy in the morning. But I can definitely let you borrow my brake bleeder if you need it!

 

Houston's Clear Lake Infiniti has an online coupon. $99 for brake fluid exchange.

Infiniti Service & Parts Specials - Houston Infiniti dealer in Houston TX - New and Used Infiniti dealership Clear Lake Pearland League City TX

If you were an Intellishop "secret shopper", Infiniti shops pay on average $60.

Edit --- sorry, I forgot my Houston geography.... thought Clear Lake was on the west side.

 

I'm located in Katy as well and will be looking to install an akebono bbk soon. However I don't have the tools or equipment to do so. Anyone willing to lend a hand? I'm willing to pay for install.

 

+1

I mostly DIY stuff, but I also have a pretty good relationship with a local mechanic. I always recommend him, and take my car to him for my inspections and tire and wheel mounting. I even sold him my Trans Am when it was time for us to part ways


Don't limit yourself to the G and 370 communities. I found my alignment guy based on a regional Porsche forum. Bleeding brakes isn't such rocket science such as it requires a 370 specialist.

 

Normally I would offer to help but caliper swap would take a significant amount of time and with the holidays here I don't think I will be able to devote enough time to help you. Sorry! Your best bet might to be to find a local shop to do the install.

 

So i figured ill change out my spark plugs since i hit 120k miles and the weather was beautiful today (65 Degrees). I removed the passenger side plugs first and they didn't seem to need replacement but i expected them to be in much worse condition. I figured i will just replace them since it is 120k. One of the plugs had oil in the valve up to the top of the plug. I tried cleaning the area with a towel and a screwdriver and carefully wiped it down. Read that i would need to get a new valve cover to fix the faulty side, any one ever deal with this or had this problem? I also got 2 of the Driver side plugs out and replaced and were clean and still have one to go but had to leave it for tomorrow morning. If anyone can help with what i should do to correct the oil in one of the valves. I haven't torqued down the plugs yet since i am still going to finish the job tomorrow morning.

I have a 2008 G35X Sedan by the way and read that it is a common issue with our engines. Had to put off installing my front lip. I will also clean the throttle bodies since i have everything apart.

 

The VQ35DE over 10 years ago had a very common, known problem with the seal failing on one of the valve covers. I suspect you're experiencing a similar problem, and the oil is leaking out the valve cover somewhere, traveling to that spot and collecting inside the spark plug tube. The only way to clean it out is exactly what you did, with a rag and a screwdriver. Total PITA, and a complete mess.

When installing the new cover, be sure to use a very even bead of RTV sealant... don't over-do it. And absolutely torque things down to exact specification, so go check the FSM. I believe it's a two-step sweep of the valve cover bolts, in a very particular pattern. Again, read the FSM.

Do you have a Pound/Inch Torque Wrench?

 

Hi guys, noob question but
when braking does the awd use more of the front or rear brakes?

 

Yes John, I have heard that alot of the 2003-2007 Sedan and Coupes had this issue and the lucky ones were able to get it replaced under warranty by checking their valve covers before their 60k Mile Warranty. It could be the reason why my oil is a bit low after every oil change and glad i was able to pinpoint the problem myself.

Yes I do have a torque wrench and will be using the correct specs when torquing the plugs down. I did a quick search online and found a used Valve cover for $90 shipped which isn't too bad. I also assume the work to replace it would need me to remove the intake manifold and just some bolts (and the fun of moving around all the hoses). Thanks for the suggestions on the Fsm John.

 

Regardless of AWD or RWD the braking is front biased , the total piston area is a bit over 2x larger in front so roughly twice the clamping force in front, hence the larger/thicker vented front rotors, and larger front calipers/pads. Compared to the thinner solid rear rotors and smaller calipers/pads.

 

Did you have a helper pump the brakes, then open the bleeder valve on the caliper? If for some reason you introduced air in the system, it is possibly trapped in the ABS pump. It can be bled but it will take time, possibly 3 sequences going all the way around, one caliper at a time. One other thing you can try is gravity bleed, fill up the reservoir completely then open one bleeder valve and it should start dripping very slowly. It will self bleed in a way.