Chris, weren't you discussing valve stems a little while ago?

Have you seen these caps?

 

Oh that's a pretty Merc. I've always wanted an Audi, thinking I'll rent an A5 to drive from Prague to Amsterdam.

Yes sir I have. I bought the burnt Ti / neochrome which is part of why I'm thinking to go with the shorter stems. They're sharp but took forever. But Chris tossed in a set of hardware for the license plate I could use if I got rid of the frame I use right now.

 

And *NOW* it all makes sense! This is why you were asking about shorty valve stems!

It's just that you couldn't man up to the silly precondition that gave you the idea.



I think that's hilarious, and exactly like something I would do. It's a sickness, dude, and we're enabling you, LOL.

 

I'd be so jealous if you did. Audi makes some beautiful cars.

Between you Mike and I, I think we all are bad influences on Chris. Lol

 

LOL! I thought I did? Maybe I just knew why I wanted them. I thought I mentioned the caps before, I know they're just caps but they really look good (I think) on, especially with the calipers.

That's the plan as of right now, it's either the Audi or a BMW and I would rather go with the Audi. I'll be in a TT BMW For the bulk of the following week anyway. Be nice to run both.

Yes, that's it! You guys are BAD influences! That means I can blame you for me having parts shipped from Japan. Damn you all!!

 

The audi non S variants leave a lot to be desired in the performance department and I would not recommend them coming from a G if that's something that is important to you. Same thing with the 328 series BMW's. However, 335's and s4's yes, really nice alternatives to the G and should definitely be considered (for about 5-10k more).

 

That's part of my fear if I were to try and make a change. I like the S6 or the rs6 but from a cost perspective just isn't viable. Our company cars in Europe are 335's so I'll have the opportunity to see how I like.

I think the rental A7 is a 1.9 so from a performance perspective there won't be much of anything there. I think the S80 will be quicker.

 

Oh man, what a long day. Too sum it up, installed my pads last weekend on stock rotors (20k on them, looked fine with no grooves) and had shake when braking at 45pmh and under. Took rotors in to get turned and sure enough, they were warped. Got that done and on to the brake fluid swap. Everything was done by the book (flush and bleeding order, battery unplugged to disengage abs). Turned the car on, brake pedal was mushy and traveled about 2 inches before engaging. Did the bleed a second time and same result. Started at 9 am, it was now 5 pm and we said fk it. I don't know why it still feels like we have air in the lines because we saw none coming out and did the procedure the right way (or so we think). I think I'm just going to give up and take it to a shop but does anyone know why I'm incurring this problem?

 

Nope, sure does sound like air in the lines, though. Props for DIY efforts. I haven't done brakes myself since I was a kid.

BTW, this is good reading: -Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

Hmmm, done one DIY brake job w/ my stock brakes, and another when I got my Wilwoods and did the proper sequence (passenger rear, driver front, driver rear then lastly passenger front) but never disconnected battery. Both times bled w/out any issues and solid pedal.
G/L AroundtheG37, sucks to be at it all day and get nowhere

 

Yeah, the FSM says to disconnect the negative terminal but sadly it did us no good. I'm really at a loss as to why this happened but it is what it is. Now I'm stuck deciding whether to take it to infiniti/nissan, or finding a place who specializes in brakes.

 

That is no fun being at it all day Around. Do you have the Akebono brakes by chance? I attempted mine about two years ago when I put my Racing Brake rotors on. I got air in the lines because I was going to install the braided stainless lines. I even had the spiffy bleeder that everyone buys.

I had a lot of air in the lines. I drove around with air in the brake lines...pedal was very squishy and it's disconcerting when you press the pedal and there is very little stopping power. The next evening, I attempted again and got more air out but there was still more left to do.

I wound up just having Jotech fix it when I took it to them to have the stainless lines installed. I'm sure if you're one of those guys that does it routinely, it's no big deal but for me, it was a PITA.

 

Did your master cylinder get too low by chance? If you got air in there it'll take much longer to fully bleed out

 

Never got below the reservoir (a bit below the min but nothing too drastic). I could't get the damn filter out of the reservoir so I couldn't use the turkey baster method to get the initial fluid out. We just pumped a whole lot starting on the passenger rear until it was drained to minimum two times (adding fluid as necessary). Other than the only other thing I think might have not helped is when I was bleeding I left the bleeder screw open too long a few times with the brakes depressed. We made sure not to do this the second time but the results still did not change.

 

Late to the discussion as I haven't been able to keep up lately, but I have had my dball and viper remote start installed on my 6MT for over a year without any malfunctions.

Well, except that one time I accidentally remote started it while walking up to the car and it was parked in gear.. But that's more of a user error than a system malfunction right?

At least the insurance paid for my paint Lexus paint