Rochester's new G
04-20-2016, 06:54 PM
#1246
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04-20-2016, 07:58 PM
#1247
Although not electronic, that pair of arms qualifies in my book as hardware ****. The way I (conservatively) budget and plan for car parts... I used to do that with computer parts. These days, I just buy as much hardware as a couple grand can get out of DELL, and call it a day.
Back to car stuff... I asked someone recently to measure their OEM shifter arm, because it was out of the car, and it measured at 9.5". This new TWM arm measures at 9.0"... which is a 0.5" drop in keeping with *half* of their marketing. The other half of their marketing claims a 0.25" drop. IDK which to believe, even though it's a moot point because whatever it is, it is.
Figure 2 to 4 weeks from now, and I'll have it installed, along with the Z1 Transmission mount. I'm pretty psyched.
Back to car stuff... I asked someone recently to measure their OEM shifter arm, because it was out of the car, and it measured at 9.5". This new TWM arm measures at 9.0"... which is a 0.5" drop in keeping with *half* of their marketing. The other half of their marketing claims a 0.25" drop. IDK which to believe, even though it's a moot point because whatever it is, it is.
Figure 2 to 4 weeks from now, and I'll have it installed, along with the Z1 Transmission mount. I'm pretty psyched.
Congrats on "almost" having the new parts installed. I'm very jealous of your 6MT, and can't wait to see how you feel about the shifter and tranny mount.
This is an awesome monitor mount and not too pricey IMO, but it is definitely more expensive than others out there. I'm like you, my priorities are constantly changing. 4 years ago it was my home theater system at my house, 3 years ago it was my Jeep, 2 years ago it was fixing up my Porsche, last year it was the Infiniti again. Unfortunately this year I'm back on a strict budget, as the wife wants a new house, so I have a feeling that most of my disposable income this year will be going into fixing up our current house and getting it ready to sell. I guess I had to grow up some time.
I think your referring to the change in total length as being a 1/2" shorter (9.5" down to 9"), but please correct me if I'm wrong. What I believe TWM is saying is that the shift **** will sit 1/4" lower, so basically a 1/4" of length is being taken out of the upper portion and that would mean another 1/4" was removed from the lower portion for a total reduction in length of 1/2". Think of the shifter as a lever arm. In this case it is basically a first order lever with a fulcrum (pivot) point between two varying length levers which can be varied to magnify the force and reduce effort, basically creating a mechanical advantage. You could actually achieve this without making the shift lever any shorter at all my decreasing length of the upper portion of the shift lever (part above the fulcrum) and then extending the portion of the lever that is below the fulcrum by the same amount, however this would also increase shift effort. This essentially causes smaller movements in the top lever (the part you move) to generate larger movements in the lower lever (the part moving the shift linkage) which is where the term short-throw comes from. If you really want to, you can calculate the difference in effort/force created from your new shift lever by using the below equation and compare the calculations between your old and new shift levers.
Fe = Fl dl / de
where
Fe = effort force (N, lb, etc...)
Fl = load force (N, lb, etc...)
dl = distance from load force to fulcrum (m, ft, in, etc...)
de = distance from effort force to fulcrum (m, ft, in, etc...)
Fe = effort force (N, lb, etc...)
Fl = load force (N, lb, etc...)
dl = distance from load force to fulcrum (m, ft, in, etc...)
de = distance from effort force to fulcrum (m, ft, in, etc...)
Last edited by 2GoRNot2G; 04-20-2016 at 08:06 PM. Reason: corrected
04-20-2016, 08:25 PM
#1248
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I think your referring to the change in total length as being a 1/2" shorter (9.5" down to 9"), but please correct me if I'm wrong. What I believe TWM is saying is that the shift **** will sit 1/4" lower, so basically a 1/4" of length is being taken out of the upper portion and that would mean another 1/4" was removed from the lower portion for a total reduction in length of 1/2".
Hang tight. Install planned for early-mid May. If I'm liking the transmission mount, I may move up the engine mounts to this year, too.
As for you being jealous... LOL, give me a break.
You've shared enough of your life for me to know mine is pretty boring and simple in comparison. Actually, it's just pretty boring period, and somewhat low-budget. However, I rather like things simple. A lot less stress in my life as I get older.Today I took my 16 year old driving in the wife's car, and holy crap... she is *not* a natural behind the wheel. So much panic. It's going to be a while yet before she graduates from driving around empty parking lots, to actual roads with other cars. (heavy sigh)
Last edited by Rochester; 04-21-2016 at 08:49 AM.
04-25-2016, 04:07 PM
#1251
OK, that actually makes some sense to me, thanks. The rest was engineering geek-speak that just flew over my head.
Hang tight. Install planned for early-mid May. If I'm liking the transmission mount, I may move up the engine mounts to this year, too.
As for you being jealous... LOL, give me a break. You've shared enough of your life for me to know mine is pretty boring and simple in comparison. Actually, it's just pretty boring period, and somewhat low-budget. However, I rather like things simple. A lot less stress in my life as I get older.
Today I took my 16 year old driving in the wife's car, and holy crap... she is *not* a natural behind the wheel. So much panic. It's going to be a while yet before she graduates from driving around empty parking lots, to actual roads with other cars. (heavy sigh)
Hang tight. Install planned for early-mid May. If I'm liking the transmission mount, I may move up the engine mounts to this year, too.
As for you being jealous... LOL, give me a break.
You've shared enough of your life for me to know mine is pretty boring and simple in comparison. Actually, it's just pretty boring period, and somewhat low-budget. However, I rather like things simple. A lot less stress in my life as I get older.Today I took my 16 year old driving in the wife's car, and holy crap... she is *not* a natural behind the wheel. So much panic. It's going to be a while yet before she graduates from driving around empty parking lots, to actual roads with other cars. (heavy sigh)
Eek! That sounds scary! Its things like this that make me glad our only kids are the four-legged variety (planned decision). Although, my youngest Niece does turn 16 in a couple of weeks, but I believe she is going to be a good driver... her older Sister, unfortunately, not so much.
Good luck with your daughter!
04-25-2016, 04:35 PM
#1252
As 2016 came on us, money got tight in the family budget. Since I'm not a selfish ogre, that means my car-modding budget is compromised too. And I get that, because I'm a dad and a husband first, selfish car dweeb second. Consequently, my plan for 4.083 gears has been getting put off month over month over month. Grr-r-r. 
In all seriousness am looking forward to when you do get those 4.083 gears in and can do a review....this is something i would love the opportunity to test drive prior to committing to the mod
04-25-2016, 04:45 PM
#1253
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You're welcome to tool around the park in it.
But I hear ya... an opportunity to drive a 6MT G37 with the 4.083 gears would be priceless. There's always the chance it's no bueno for me. And according to my revised plans, the gears are now a 2017 mod. (sigh)
04-26-2016, 07:54 AM
#1255
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I've said this before, and it sounds crazy, but as much as I love my Vossens, I'm pretty content with how the car looks on OEM sport rims with a conservative drop and a flush fitment.
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VIVID (04-26-2016)
04-26-2016, 08:06 AM
#1257
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Here's a valuable tip: don't use the half-height lug nuts that come with the spacers. Buy some shorty spline drive lug nuts... They'll fit just fine behind the duckfeet, and you won't be stripping the heads.
Here's another: clean the spacers (and rotor hats) each year, and use a small application of no-seize compound between the spacers and the rotors. That way you can pull them off in the Spring without any problems.
Last edited by Rochester; 04-26-2016 at 08:23 AM.
04-26-2016, 01:20 PM
#1258
I will second what John has said... Definitely use a light coat of anti-seize between the spacers and rotors and don't forget to also coat the small lip at the center of the hub which centers your hub-centric spacers on your hub, as this is where most of the corrosion typically occurs. I'd also suggest using a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the studs, which will help with removal come Spring/Autumn.
04-26-2016, 01:56 PM
#1259
B2 AutoDesigns, here on the forum. They've been on and off the car again for two winters now.
Here's a valuable tip: don't use the half-height lug nuts that come with the spacers. Buy some shorty spline drive lug nuts... They'll fit just fine behind the duckfeet, and you won't be stripping the heads.
Here's another: clean the spacers (and rotor hats) each year, and use a small application of no-seize compound between the spacers and the rotors. That way you can pull them off in the Spring without any problems.
Here's a valuable tip: don't use the half-height lug nuts that come with the spacers. Buy some shorty spline drive lug nuts... They'll fit just fine behind the duckfeet, and you won't be stripping the heads.
Here's another: clean the spacers (and rotor hats) each year, and use a small application of no-seize compound between the spacers and the rotors. That way you can pull them off in the Spring without any problems.
I will second what John has said... Definitely use a light coat of anti-seize between the spacers and rotors and don't forget to also coat the small lip at the center of the hub which centers your hub-centric spacers on your hub, as this is where most of the corrosion typically occurs. I'd also suggest using a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the studs, which will help with removal come Spring/Autumn.
Any reason you went with B2 spacers instead of H&R or another brand?
Price the main factor or something else you considered?
04-26-2016, 02:00 PM
#1260
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Other than that, because I was intending to dance with these spacers twice a year, I very specifically wanted adapters. I think if it were something permanent, then I'd get the extended lug design and call it a day. However, I'm not going to argue the merits of one over the other, because I really don't know. All I can say is make sure surfaces are mated clean and smooth, and that you torque everything properly in a proper pattern. Do that, and you'll be fine, whatever you buy.