Megan Racing Coilovers HELP PLEASE!!!
#1
Megan Racing Coilovers HELP PLEASE!!!
Just had a shop installed Megan Racing Coilovers and I am getting a nasty clunk noise on the rear right set up. Ive taking it apart three times everything is tight everything looks good... Ive called Megan Racing only to have the tech tell me they are installed wrong. the shocks need to be set to zero set the desirable height and the noise will go away... I am as confused as I can possibly be... Can anyone shed some insight on this please?
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
Just had a shop installed Megan Racing Coilovers and I am getting a nasty clunk noise on the rear right set up. Ive taking it apart three times everything is tight everything looks good... Ive called Megan Racing only to have the tech tell me they are installed wrong. the shocks need to be set to zero set the desirable height and the noise will go away... I am as confused as I can possibly be... Can anyone shed some insight on this please?
Thanks
Thanks
#3
#4
Because Racecar
iTrader: (14)
IIRC, Megan Racing coilovers are true-type. Meaning the rear spring bucket in your car will be empty, because the spring is on the rear shock instead.
When you have the coilover off the car, there is no compression on the dampening strut, this means the strut is as long as it will ever me. The damper has a tendency to stay "long", because the spring is keeping it that way. If you unscrew the lock ring that the spring sits on, then your spring might rattle back and forth on the strut, simply because the strut is only so long, and you've given the spring too much room to move.
When you have the coilovers off the car, you should have snugged the lower lock ring up against the bottom of the spring. Then you should, as blnewt says, continue to screw the ring until it is 1/4" further up the coilover than it was before. This will be slightly difficult, as you are effectively compression the spring 1/4" already.
If the coilovers are off the car, then the only thing loading the spring is the lower lock ring you just tigntened. Pre load, get it?
Install it on the car, and try again.
When you have the coilover off the car, there is no compression on the dampening strut, this means the strut is as long as it will ever me. The damper has a tendency to stay "long", because the spring is keeping it that way. If you unscrew the lock ring that the spring sits on, then your spring might rattle back and forth on the strut, simply because the strut is only so long, and you've given the spring too much room to move.
When you have the coilovers off the car, you should have snugged the lower lock ring up against the bottom of the spring. Then you should, as blnewt says, continue to screw the ring until it is 1/4" further up the coilover than it was before. This will be slightly difficult, as you are effectively compression the spring 1/4" already.
If the coilovers are off the car, then the only thing loading the spring is the lower lock ring you just tigntened. Pre load, get it?
Install it on the car, and try again.
#5
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
IIRC, Megan Racing coilovers are true-type. Meaning the rear spring bucket in your car will be empty, because the spring is on the rear shock instead.
When you have the coilover off the car, there is no compression on the dampening strut, this means the strut is as long as it will ever me. The damper has a tendency to stay "long", because the spring is keeping it that way. If you unscrew the lock ring that the spring sits on, then your spring might rattle back and forth on the strut, simply because the strut is only so long, and you've given the spring too much room to move.
When you have the coilovers off the car, you should have snugged the lower lock ring up against the bottom of the spring. Then you should, as blnewt says, continue to screw the ring until it is 1/4" further up the coilover than it was before. This will be slightly difficult, as you are effectively compression the spring 1/4" already.
If the coilovers are off the car, then the only thing loading the spring is the lower lock ring you just tigntened. Pre load, get it?
Install it on the car, and try again.
When you have the coilover off the car, there is no compression on the dampening strut, this means the strut is as long as it will ever me. The damper has a tendency to stay "long", because the spring is keeping it that way. If you unscrew the lock ring that the spring sits on, then your spring might rattle back and forth on the strut, simply because the strut is only so long, and you've given the spring too much room to move.
When you have the coilovers off the car, you should have snugged the lower lock ring up against the bottom of the spring. Then you should, as blnewt says, continue to screw the ring until it is 1/4" further up the coilover than it was before. This will be slightly difficult, as you are effectively compression the spring 1/4" already.
If the coilovers are off the car, then the only thing loading the spring is the lower lock ring you just tigntened. Pre load, get it?
Install it on the car, and try again.
The following users liked this post:
GoFightNguyen (06-25-2014)
#6
Because Racecar
iTrader: (14)
Actually the Megans are a OEM type where the spring bucket is still used, but preloading is still req'd. You basically take the wheel off the car, keep the spring bucket (lower control arm) hanging free, you then raise the arm until the spring is compressed a 1/4", you then install the shock so it's fully extended (you adjust the height collars until your shock is exactly the height needed to sit flush on the under fender mount point. This insures your spring is never just hanging uncompressed, there's alwasy that 1/4" of load on the spring. Hope that makes sense and G/L
#8
Definitely confused...
So here is the question is there a good strut/shock aftermarket with a set of lowering Springs out there... Don't feel comfortable with coils so I may switch my set up...
So here is the question is there a good strut/shock aftermarket with a set of lowering Springs out there... Don't feel comfortable with coils so I may switch my set up...
#9
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
This pic shows the rear spring, you just need to preload like I mentioned above, then fully extend unmounted shock and adjust the height w/ the threaded sleeve until teh fully extended shock is the exact height to mount flush under the fender mount while your spring is preloaded a 1/4". Hopefully you can get the issue squared away as I think you should be happy w/ the overall drive compared to lowering springs.
Good Luck & let us know if we can be of further help.
Brad
#10
Thanks Brad... I appreciate all the wisdom. So spring has to be set a 1/4 thread? If im understanding this right. Then the unmounted shock must be extended before install... The part the confuses me is what do you mean when you say "then fully extend unmounted shock and adjust the height w/ the threaded sleeve until the fully extended shock is the exact height to mount flush under the fender mount while your spring is preloaded a 1/4"
I know im acting very needie right now, its just that I dont do well with noise in my car specially when its my everyday....
Thanks
I know im acting very needie right now, its just that I dont do well with noise in my car specially when its my everyday....
Thanks
#11
Because Racecar
iTrader: (14)
Thanks Brad... I appreciate all the wisdom. So spring has to be set a 1/4 thread? If im understanding this right. Then the unmounted shock must be extended before install... The part the confuses me is what do you mean when you say "then fully extend unmounted shock and adjust the height w/ the threaded sleeve until the fully extended shock is the exact height to mount flush under the fender mount while your spring is preloaded a 1/4" I know im acting very needie right now, its just that I dont do well with noise in my car specially when its my everyday.... Thanks
Maybe you should take it to a shop and have a professional adjust the preload.
#12
Movin On!
iTrader: (13)
OK, let me see if I can further clarify~
The rear spring needs to be compressed a 1/4" so when you remove the tire and have the car suspended (no weight on the rear axle/spring bucket) you then raise the spring bucket just enough to get the rear spring tight in the perches, once you've done this you then raise the bucket another 1/4" to get the preload set. This 1/4" preload is regardless of where you have your adjustable spring collar set to, that is strictly to be used to set your car height.
Once your preload is set THEN you fully extend the unmounted shock and adjust the height of the shock (w/ the threaded sleeve) until you get the height the proper length to mount the shock flush to the under fender mount.
It sounds a bit involved but once you get it it's not too bad.
G/L
The rear spring needs to be compressed a 1/4" so when you remove the tire and have the car suspended (no weight on the rear axle/spring bucket) you then raise the spring bucket just enough to get the rear spring tight in the perches, once you've done this you then raise the bucket another 1/4" to get the preload set. This 1/4" preload is regardless of where you have your adjustable spring collar set to, that is strictly to be used to set your car height.
Once your preload is set THEN you fully extend the unmounted shock and adjust the height of the shock (w/ the threaded sleeve) until you get the height the proper length to mount the shock flush to the under fender mount.
It sounds a bit involved but once you get it it's not too bad.
G/L
#13
Thanks Again for all your help... I will take it to the shop and explain this to them... If they cant do this right. I have no choice but to go with another set up...
Can you please tell me what are your thoughts on Eibach prokit springs how low do they sit? And which strut will you recommend for these springs..
Once again I thank you very much....
Can you please tell me what are your thoughts on Eibach prokit springs how low do they sit? And which strut will you recommend for these springs..
Once again I thank you very much....
#14
Because Racecar
iTrader: (14)
Thanks Again for all your help... I will take it to the shop and explain this to them... If they cant do this right. I have no choice but to go with another set up... Can you please tell me what are your thoughts on Eibach prokit springs how low do they sit? And which strut will you recommend for these springs.. Once again I thank you very much....
I wrote up a pretty extensive "how to lower your car" blurb in my "mods for newbs" sticky, I think.
Eibachs have one of the mildest drops, it's about 75% chance you can get away without needing a camber kit. You can run them on stock struts, but it will decrease the life of your struts. Just run it on OEM struts until they blow, and swap them for Tokico blues or something.
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