GRiskySeven

Okay so after some time of doing some “extensive research” since my cheap tires were bald. I decided I was just going to get a wheel/tire package from Fitment industries. I wanted to do a light weight track style wheel so I went with RPF1s after asking around on YouTube with builds running rpf1s I seen the most popular size for G Sedans was 18x9.5+15 (front) 18x10+38 (rear) so I opted for that size next was my tire size which I did see one build running these sizes but not the same tire so I chose to go with a good track tire some Michelin pilot 4s
Front tires
255/40ZR18
Rear Tires
285/35ZR18

ISSUES I RAN INTO installing my wheels
so I looked everywhere making sure these wheels cleared the g37s akebono brakes. And everyone sweared up and down they cleared the Akebonos in the fitment I got. Keep in mind it’s 10pm and I can’t see **** (probably a bad time to install them) but I was so eager and I had got off work super late. Try to take it around the block for a spin and my car wouldn’t move and I heard a loud scrape. It was my wheels hitting my front caliper. How ?? Well after all my research on why it doesn’t clear I came down to the conclusion it was I have aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors so maybe the hub portion sticks out less than the oem rotors ? ran to autozone got a super cheap wheel spacer and it cleared ( probably a good idea to get a better spacer) but now my studs arnt long enough. Problem after problem. so currently getting longer studs installed so I can fully tighten my lugnuts.
But enough of the issues. I will get it sorted out.

what Do I need to get better fitment I’m on fully stock suspension. It looks like a monster truck, the rear tire sticks out I would say about an inch past the fender. And the front maybe a half inch or so.

i was thinking BC racing coilovers?
z1 camber arms ? Toe arms ? Control arms ?
pulling fenders?
im okay with not flush fitment i just want it to be as flush as possible and not look weird how it currently does thanks so much for any shared advice . Hope I didn’t waste 35 hundred on wheels and tires I can’t run);

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

I'm sorry for your troubles, but there are almost no 18" wheels which will clear your BBK (other than OEM), and few 19" wheels for that matter. There's a reason why the majority of people who don't want to roll the dice on aftermarket wheels, or don't want to deal with 20s, just get the OEM Sport 19s.

Those RPF1 wheels from Enkie are super lightweight, so I get their appeal. And a few people here have used them in 18" diameter over the years, but IDK the proper offset. Seems whatever it is, it's not what you ordered. Weight savings aside, I think they're kind of meh looking. No offense.

Basic wheel spacers will require extended bolts. However, wheel spacer adapters have their own bolts. If you go with basic spacers, get the minimum thickness needed for clearance, and get extended lugs. If you go with spacer adapters, I believe the minimum thickness you can get is 15mm. Man, that really sucks that you damaged your front calipers. That's probably something you'll never be able to un-see.

The amount of negative camber you'll need to bring the top-of-wheel flush with the fender will be so severe that it will continue to look strange, particularly because of that huge gap. Plus it will destroy your tires really quick.

My only advice is to cut your losses, and start over. You know, the 18" duckfeet look worlds better when lowered and poked about 15mm. Maybe that's a safer route for you, get your duckfeet blasted and painted a nice dark chrome.

projectpanda13

iTrader: (2)

i had the same setup with the Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +15 on the front and 18x10.0 +38 in the rear and it definitely clears.

Do you have picture of where its contacting?

Even with aftermarket rotors, the mounting location on the knuckle would be the same as stock. I'm also rocking aftermarket rotors (Z1 2 piece rotors) and the RPF1 18x9.5 +15 cleared.

This is my youtube video on the setup.

GRiskySeven

Yea your video was actually one of the ones i stumbled upon, and i was talking to crftedG for his specs. Right there where the spokes come across the caliper. I just ended getting a spacer. Now more of my issue is trying to get fitment on point somewhat. what exactly do I need?

projectpanda13

iTrader: (2)

Its very strange its making contact at the spokes. And the wheel is fully seated on against the hub?

Can't image the caliper not being fully bolted on and moving during your rotor replacement.

some camber will help tuck the front and rear. You may not need as much as I had. My ride height was 27" from ground to fender top arch.

For the front, you will need aftermarket upper control arms for sure for more negative camber.

The rears, you'll also want camber arms to be able to get more adjustability.

But if you lower you car, natural camber will be induced so you it may give you some clearance to tuck the setup for the fitment you want

GRiskySeven

I can check if the caliper is fully bolted down . I don’t see why it would not be I had the rotors changed at a shop

projectpanda13

iTrader: (2)

Keep us updated if you find anything.

Rochester

iTrader: (9)

Here's a related thought regarding tolerance in measurement with things like fixed brakes.

I recently has a set of Akebono's powder coated, however I didn't have the painter mask the surrounding area at the big connecting bolt-holes. Now normally my front calipers have only 2mm of clearance from the spokes of my summer wheels, which is why I also use an additional 3mm spacer. Well with my newly powder coated calipers on the car, it really looks like I lost a few mm of clearance. I thought I was crazy, but the heavy powder and clear coat seems to have impacted fitment.

I know this doesn't address your problem, just saying these brakes should be where they're supposed to be... whatever that means, LOL.