Cusco Strut Tower Brace Installed
#91
Lexus Defector
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A couple mm at most. However for me to measure that precisely would require me to remove the intake manifold. Not gonna happen. Unless there is a fund started by everyone interested in the results to purchase me a MD370 intake manifold. Then I'd have a reason to remove it.
#92
sounds like he has a lot of bracing so try to find a stock one also id be curious to the actual measurement. when mine got lifted before the install you could see it get wider
Last edited by 37hevn; 06-06-2012 at 11:16 PM.
#93
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So the real question is does this actually work for our G? I saw on the 240sx and the supra forums that the struct bar actually works on those models.
Don't want to waste $200 on part that really isn't going to help my car.
Don't want to waste $200 on part that really isn't going to help my car.
#94
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However, whether the cusco or gtspec brace are functional is a whole another question. I read an article recently that said you want an one piece brace made out of steel. There is no point in bracing a metal chassis with a softer metal like aluminum.
#95
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I believe with the right setup and installation, the strut bar should improve handling in our cars. I say this because the 370z comes stock with a well designed strut brace. There is no reason for Nissan to design and include one if it was not necessary. And the 370z shares a similar chassis with our G37.
However, whether the cusco or gtspec brace are functional is a whole another question. I read an article recently that said you want an one piece brace made out of steel. There is no point in bracing a metal chassis with a softer metal like aluminum.
However, whether the cusco or gtspec brace are functional is a whole another question. I read an article recently that said you want an one piece brace made out of steel. There is no point in bracing a metal chassis with a softer metal like aluminum.
Yeah I am so torn to see if our G will handle better with a strut bar. We should have some one with a stock G test this out at the track.
#96
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Here is the article:
There are two things that bother me about nearly all strut braces (and indeed other braces designed for most cars). First of all, they have a hinged part, almost always in the same plane as the stresses that will be applied to the bar.
Most popular eBay-type braces (and even JDM uber-expensive ones!) have a piece that bolts to the strut tower and then the bar itself bolts into place after that. This is a terrible design and one that will render the brace nearly useless under many circumstances.
Take a look at OEM-designed strut braces and in almost all cases (especially where an engineer was asked), they are SOLID pieces, generally steel in construction.
Why steel? Well, for one it’s cost. However, and this is the other thing that bugs me about most aftermarket braces – Aluminum in this application has ZERO advantage of steel. Why?
Aluminum and steel have the same stiffness, given the same amount of weight. In other words, if you go to the hardware store and pick up a piece of 1″ bar aluminum, you’ll find that while it is much lighter than the same size piece of steel…. it’s a great deal flimsier.
It will take the same amount of weight in aluminum (and thus a bigger bar) to provide the same amount of stiffness as the equivilant weight steel. Aluminum strut braces, floor bars, fender braces, and so on – would have to be unreasonably large to add any real stiffness.
So, yes, you absolutely should try to find a SOLID, steel-based brace whenever possible, or have one constructed for you.
Aluminum strut braces are okay, as long as they are bulky and solid with no hinge – they’re better than nothing, but I’ll take a steel version any day over the aluminum.
Let’s talk a little more about the aluminum vs steel argument. Roll cages are always made out of? Steel. The frame of your car is almost always …. 100% steel. Why? Well, because the only material that can be as stiff as steel is carbon fiber – and it has it’s problems not to mention expenses.
Aluminum has its place, in unstressed body panels for example. But what about aircraft aluminum, isn’t it as strong as steel? Well, sort of, but it’s extremely flexible too – think about how much the air plane wings move about when you’re flying (scary sometimes how much they move!).
Most popular eBay-type braces (and even JDM uber-expensive ones!) have a piece that bolts to the strut tower and then the bar itself bolts into place after that. This is a terrible design and one that will render the brace nearly useless under many circumstances.
Take a look at OEM-designed strut braces and in almost all cases (especially where an engineer was asked), they are SOLID pieces, generally steel in construction.
Why steel? Well, for one it’s cost. However, and this is the other thing that bugs me about most aftermarket braces – Aluminum in this application has ZERO advantage of steel. Why?
Aluminum and steel have the same stiffness, given the same amount of weight. In other words, if you go to the hardware store and pick up a piece of 1″ bar aluminum, you’ll find that while it is much lighter than the same size piece of steel…. it’s a great deal flimsier.
It will take the same amount of weight in aluminum (and thus a bigger bar) to provide the same amount of stiffness as the equivilant weight steel. Aluminum strut braces, floor bars, fender braces, and so on – would have to be unreasonably large to add any real stiffness.
So, yes, you absolutely should try to find a SOLID, steel-based brace whenever possible, or have one constructed for you.
Aluminum strut braces are okay, as long as they are bulky and solid with no hinge – they’re better than nothing, but I’ll take a steel version any day over the aluminum.
Let’s talk a little more about the aluminum vs steel argument. Roll cages are always made out of? Steel. The frame of your car is almost always …. 100% steel. Why? Well, because the only material that can be as stiff as steel is carbon fiber – and it has it’s problems not to mention expenses.
Aluminum has its place, in unstressed body panels for example. But what about aircraft aluminum, isn’t it as strong as steel? Well, sort of, but it’s extremely flexible too – think about how much the air plane wings move about when you’re flying (scary sometimes how much they move!).
#97
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Another article that says basically the same thing:
The majority of strut braces we are aware of, even many leading brands, have major flaws of one kind or another that fail to fill the basic characteristics of a product that is designed to reinforce a vehicle chassis. Here is a list of items not recommended for an effective strut brace: Any component that is not absolutely rigid, detracts in some measure from the intended function of the strut brace. Some brands of strut braces include almost every one of these undesirable features. Some high end brands contain two or more of these flaws.
1) thin shock tower plates of soft, stamped materials (allows flex and movement)
2) thin hollow tubes that make up the cross bar (lacks the strength required to do the job)
3) multiple bends and angles of the cross bar (each bend or angle imparts a weakness and point of flex to the brace)
4) pivot points where the cross bar attaches to the shock tower rings. (this is 5 year old technology and negates any improvement the strut brace may otherwise have) As the chassis twists and flexes from side to side, the pivot points simply allow the strut brace to "float" with the movement rather that stop it.
5) small diameter hardware, a structure is only as strong as its weakest component. You could have a cross bar of solid 2 inch thick steel but if it attaches to the rings with a 1/4 inch bolt, its only as strong as the quarter inch bolt.
6) lack of reasonable heft and girth (assuming reasonably priced materials, not "super alloys)
7) both cosmetic and functional, some strut braces look like they were manufactured from old lawn chairs and provide little if any rigidity. We refer to these as "feel good" accessories. They do nothing, but the owner feels good about his new accessory. These are usually the economy models, and, others that sell anywhere from $150 to $250. Any improvement in actual rigidity realized from these economy models is a result of the owners imagination and expectation.
1) thin shock tower plates of soft, stamped materials (allows flex and movement)
2) thin hollow tubes that make up the cross bar (lacks the strength required to do the job)
3) multiple bends and angles of the cross bar (each bend or angle imparts a weakness and point of flex to the brace)
4) pivot points where the cross bar attaches to the shock tower rings. (this is 5 year old technology and negates any improvement the strut brace may otherwise have) As the chassis twists and flexes from side to side, the pivot points simply allow the strut brace to "float" with the movement rather that stop it.
5) small diameter hardware, a structure is only as strong as its weakest component. You could have a cross bar of solid 2 inch thick steel but if it attaches to the rings with a 1/4 inch bolt, its only as strong as the quarter inch bolt.
6) lack of reasonable heft and girth (assuming reasonably priced materials, not "super alloys)
7) both cosmetic and functional, some strut braces look like they were manufactured from old lawn chairs and provide little if any rigidity. We refer to these as "feel good" accessories. They do nothing, but the owner feels good about his new accessory. These are usually the economy models, and, others that sell anywhere from $150 to $250. Any improvement in actual rigidity realized from these economy models is a result of the owners imagination and expectation.
#100
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Damn so by the post made by modme the struct bar for cusco and gt spec is kinda pointless because he is correct about aluminum and steel. Aluminum flexes, steel doesn't.
I'm so torn now.
I'm so torn now.
#102
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I just tried to search for steel braces for our G. Found a description for GTspec that people might want to see since it has bearing on the aluminum vs. steel
Chassis bracing category included strut tower brace, under chassis brace (front, rear or mid) and various chassis reinforcement products. Strut tower brace included front and rear braces that reinforce the strut top of the vehicle. Under chassis brace included braces that reinforce various position of the vehicle. We split them into front, rear and mid chassis. Most of our chassis reinforcement products are make of of 6061 aluminum with the exception of the fender brace and a few other braces. We will replace aluminum with stronger material such as steel or forged 7075 aluminum in places where we think aluminum will be too weak.
#104
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I agree.. GTspec is aluminum and I believe the Cusco is also aluminum.
My buddy is rocking an titanium ARC strut brace on his Evo.. I wonder if that has more added benefit? Its also mounted in 3 point instead of 2 like on our cars.