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Very cool build! Hope to take my g in a similar direction!
It's amazing what you can accomplish with electrical tape and zip-ties.
I actually just watched his track video a second time, and I'm thinking about freaking out trying to properly downshift into a sharp turn after one of those long runs, without losing it on the way out. Damn... I'm not worthy.
... I'm thinking about freaking out trying to properly downshift into a sharp turn after one of those long runs, without losing it on the way out. Damn... I'm not worthy.
Gotta respect the code brown level track driving...I did a ride along in my own G with a much more skilled driver than me on a fairly technical course once. I still can't believe how hard you can push these cars coming up to a giant cement wall with street tires and just the Akebonos with aggressive pads.
It's amazing what you can accomplish with electrical tape and zip-ties.
Ah, you figured out my secret.
Originally Posted by Rochester
I actually just watched his track video a second time, and I'm thinking about freaking out trying to properly downshift into a sharp turn after one of those long runs, without losing it on the way out. Damn... I'm not worthy.
I realized the other day that I didn't miss a single shift at the two track days I have done at Road America this year. That has never happened before and I have driven there for many years. The RJM shift pedal assembly, B&M short shifter, and Raceseng weighted shift **** make it so much easier to drive this car well. Even just the short drive to and from work is much more enjoyable now.
So I used the jack pad adapter on the car for the first time today since I repaired/repainted the jack points. It seems to work perfectly and should hopefully save those somewhat fragile jack points. Only time will really tell, but so far so good.
One of the things I have neglected to do to my car is a strut tower brace. I skipped this as our strut towers have got to be some of the sturdiest in the industry with them being right next to a triangulated fire wall. I am hoping it will make some difference to the steering, but I am not holding my breath. I really like this Alutec Aluminum bar as it is all one piece. I had a Cusco bar on another car and the design allows it to flex. Thoughts?
Why would I ever unbolt it? I think you were the one telling me that you actually noticed some difference in steering feel, even on the street. Is that right?
Why would I ever unbolt it? I think you were the one telling me that you actually noticed some difference in steering feel, even on the street. Is that right?
If you don't ever detail your engine bay, I suppose you won't need to remove the FSTB. Fair point. But when you do have that need, you're going to regret not having a simple two-bolt design.
Yes, there's a difference. Low speed turns and hard launches into a hard turn... mostly the latter, giving you more steering control.
After you get one, just experiment with it on/off/on again.
I'm more a fan of the Alutec bar due to the reason you called out before - it's a single solid piece. I don't understand why the other bars allow for a pivot point.
That being said, I'm also pretty sure that our unibodies are quite stiff to begin with. It ain't no squishy little Honda for sure.
I'm more a fan of the Alutec bar due to the reason you called out before - it's a single solid piece. I don't understand why the other bars allow for a pivot point.
That being said, I'm also pretty sure that our unibodies are quite stiff to begin with. It ain't no squishy little Honda for sure.
I'm not an engineer, and IDK what you're thinking, but there's no "pivot point". Once securely bolted down with the two pins, the bar doesn't budge. Ever. Also, the stresses being mitigated by this bar are side-2-side chassis flex, so whether it's one solid piece of aluminum to the brackets, or one solid piece including the brackets... it just doesn't matter. It's the length of bar itself that's taking the load.
If there's a genuine benefit to the one-piece, I can't imagine there's any way that a driver could tell.
Whereas the genuine detriment is that you have to unbolt your dampers just to remove the bar.
I'm not an engineer, and IDK what you're thinking, but there's no "pivot point". Once securely bolted down with the two pins, the bar doesn't budge. Ever. Also, the stresses being mitigated by this bar are side-2-side chassis flex, so whether it's one solid piece of aluminum to the brackets, or one solid piece including the brackets... it just doesn't matter. It's the length of bar itself that's taking the load.
If there's a genuine benefit to the one-piece, I can't imagine there's any way that a driver could tell.
Whereas the genuine detriment is that you have to unbolt your dampers just to remove the bar.
That's fair. It's just a gut feeling for me, and for some reason I imagine there may be movement when there really isn't.
I had a Cusco bar on another car that had the same design as the one for our cars with the bolts on each end connecting the mounting plates with the actual bar. I could tighten those bolts as much as possible and still move the mounting plate with my hand and flex the very thin mounting plate. That's what I don't want as my suspension can easily transfer more energy than my hands.
The steering may be more direct with the Alutec bar due to this design (desired), but the trade off could easily be a rougher ride due to almost making the front suspension completely rigid at the top.
