The "4 door Z" build (4DRZ)- 13 G37S 6spd sedan
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4DRZ (06-21-2018)
#797
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
It's amazing what you can accomplish with electrical tape and zip-ties.
I actually just watched his track video a second time, and I'm thinking about freaking out trying to properly downshift into a sharp turn after one of those long runs, without losing it on the way out. Damn... I'm not worthy.
I actually just watched his track video a second time, and I'm thinking about freaking out trying to properly downshift into a sharp turn after one of those long runs, without losing it on the way out. Damn... I'm not worthy.
#798
Super Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Gotta respect the code brown level track driving...I did a ride along in my own G with a much more skilled driver than me on a fairly technical course once. I still can't believe how hard you can push these cars coming up to a giant cement wall with street tires and just the Akebonos with aggressive pads.
#799
I realized the other day that I didn't miss a single shift at the two track days I have done at Road America this year. That has never happened before and I have driven there for many years. The RJM shift pedal assembly, B&M short shifter, and Raceseng weighted shift **** make it so much easier to drive this car well. Even just the short drive to and from work is much more enjoyable now.
#801
One of the things I have neglected to do to my car is a strut tower brace. I skipped this as our strut towers have got to be some of the sturdiest in the industry with them being right next to a triangulated fire wall. I am hoping it will make some difference to the steering, but I am not holding my breath. I really like this Alutec Aluminum bar as it is all one piece. I had a Cusco bar on another car and the design allows it to flex. Thoughts?
#802
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
I suspect you will immediately hate unbolting that Alutec bar, from the very first time and every time thereafter.
#805
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Yes, there's a difference. Low speed turns and hard launches into a hard turn... mostly the latter, giving you more steering control.
After you get one, just experiment with it on/off/on again.
No wait... LOL
I like it too. I think it's that matte finish.
#807
Registered Member
I'm more a fan of the Alutec bar due to the reason you called out before - it's a single solid piece. I don't understand why the other bars allow for a pivot point.
That being said, I'm also pretty sure that our unibodies are quite stiff to begin with. It ain't no squishy little Honda for sure.
That being said, I'm also pretty sure that our unibodies are quite stiff to begin with. It ain't no squishy little Honda for sure.
#808
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
I'm more a fan of the Alutec bar due to the reason you called out before - it's a single solid piece. I don't understand why the other bars allow for a pivot point.
That being said, I'm also pretty sure that our unibodies are quite stiff to begin with. It ain't no squishy little Honda for sure.
That being said, I'm also pretty sure that our unibodies are quite stiff to begin with. It ain't no squishy little Honda for sure.
If there's a genuine benefit to the one-piece, I can't imagine there's any way that a driver could tell.
Whereas the genuine detriment is that you have to unbolt your dampers just to remove the bar.
#809
Registered Member
I'm not an engineer, and IDK what you're thinking, but there's no "pivot point". Once securely bolted down with the two pins, the bar doesn't budge. Ever. Also, the stresses being mitigated by this bar are side-2-side chassis flex, so whether it's one solid piece of aluminum to the brackets, or one solid piece including the brackets... it just doesn't matter. It's the length of bar itself that's taking the load.
If there's a genuine benefit to the one-piece, I can't imagine there's any way that a driver could tell.
Whereas the genuine detriment is that you have to unbolt your dampers just to remove the bar.
If there's a genuine benefit to the one-piece, I can't imagine there's any way that a driver could tell.
Whereas the genuine detriment is that you have to unbolt your dampers just to remove the bar.
#810
I had a Cusco bar on another car that had the same design as the one for our cars with the bolts on each end connecting the mounting plates with the actual bar. I could tighten those bolts as much as possible and still move the mounting plate with my hand and flex the very thin mounting plate. That's what I don't want as my suspension can easily transfer more energy than my hands.
The steering may be more direct with the Alutec bar due to this design (desired), but the trade off could easily be a rougher ride due to almost making the front suspension completely rigid at the top.
Anyone have an Alutec bar that can comment?
The steering may be more direct with the Alutec bar due to this design (desired), but the trade off could easily be a rougher ride due to almost making the front suspension completely rigid at the top.
Anyone have an Alutec bar that can comment?