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Let me ask you this - why not Whiteline? I have their diff. bushings on my car, and I love them. I'm definitely going to give their sway bars a try (even though they are the most expensive) in the near future.
I do not think you will be able to discern the difference in performance between the two. Go for the Hotchkis since it's easier to maintain with the zerk fitting.
Let me ask you this - why not Whiteline? I have their diff. bushings on my car, and I love them. I'm definitely going to give their sway bars a try (even though they are the most expensive) in the near future.
Mainly because they cost about 33% more. I did consider them though.
Originally Posted by MaQG37
I do not think you will be able to discern the difference in performance between the two. Go for the Hotchkis since it's easier to maintain with the zerk fitting.
I am going Hotchkis mainly because of the zerk fitting. And after a ton of reading opinions, it's likely that I'd use the most stiff setting for the front on the Eibachs, which is similar to the Hotchkis. For the rear, Hotchkis middle setting is similar to the softest on the Eibach. Doubt I'd ever want more stiff than that. Hotchkis has one setting lower so I figure Hotchkis has more usable adjustment.
This issue happened to me, so what I did was grabbed a pair of small vice grips to bite the nut from behind. I then proceeded to turn the bolt and it eventually came out.
The caps are nice because it blends in with my license plate frame.
Tried this over the break and no luck. How did you manage to grab a hold of the nut when its in a rubber encasement? Only top part of the nut was exposed and I couldn't get enough grip to hold it still.
This is such a dumb problem to have lol. I'm about to sawzall this thing.
Had the transfer case, front, and rear diff fluids changed with Redline.
Also, swapped out the dinky AWD rear sway bar for a 2016 Nismo 370z sway bar. Wow, the car handles so much better, but it has gotten stiffer. I can definitely feel a rougher ride.
Last edited by EcstaticG37XS; Nov 27, 2017 at 03:25 PM.
Tried this over the break and no luck. How did you manage to grab a hold of the nut when its in a rubber encasement? Only top part of the nut was exposed and I couldn't get enough grip to hold it still.
This is such a dumb problem to have lol. I'm about to sawzall this thing.
I had this problem...
If i remember right the plate holder is a peice of black plastic riveted onto the bumper What I did was drill out the rivets, remove that peice completely.... Then i just broke the nuts completely off, and JB welded some new M6 nuts in place, and reattached the black bracket back onto the bumper with screws and nuts.
Also, swapped out the dinky AWD rear sway bar for a 2016 Nismo 370z sway bar. Wow, the car handles so much better, but it has gotten stiffer. I can definitely feel a rougher ride.
If you feel ride in the rear is stiffer on bumps that affect both rear wheels, then something is wrong with the installation. Sway bars are only felt on asymmetric bumps.
Added the ebay ***** and think they look much better than the OEM rubber ones. I know carsmo are much better quality but couldn't justify spending over 10x more for them. Happy with my $5 purchase.
Coming from a Canadian, not a chance. They're great ***** and they're made extremely well, but it'd be over $100 to get a set here. I've got the same ***** above for $6. You can't tell me the Carsmo ***** are worth $95+ more.