Nice! Those LED strings are really nice, that's one upgrade that's on the way for me too!

 

I've been wanting to do something about the garage lights for years. This weekend I saw these. The pricepoint was right at $30 each, and the light is a fantastic improvement. So now I've got 3 of them hanging high in the rafters, wired to a single switch. Very happy with the way it turned out.

Commercial Electric 3 ft. LED Black Shop Light-54254141 - The Home Depot

Today I ordered this guy, that I'm going to mount on the wall, about 6 feet off the floor, as something to shine a line on things when the hood is open. You know, when cleaning things.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...r-switch/1545/

 

I really want to do this also. I already have 1 ballast out...waiting for more to die before I replace them. Sucks I have an entire box of bulbs not even open yet. Prior owner left The bulbs and lights so they were kind of free. The prices are getting much better on these LEDs, finally.

 

I replaced mine with what looks to be something very similar. I also upgraded my handheld to this:


Very happy with both purchases and my car most definitely thanks me.

 

Installed the Z1 Motorsports Cold Air Intakeblast night. Easy as pie right of the street using basic tools. Car sounds a lot meaner.

 

Nice garage upgrades! You can never have too much light... Just keep in mind that the light bar from Superbright LES's look to be a DC unit, so you will need some sort of power supply / transformer to convert from your 120VAC outlet to 24VDC.


Awesome light! I absolutely love my Bayco LED shop lights! I have one wired light and 2 of their rechargeable units. The magnet on them make them perfect to working under the hood or under the car... just stick the light to the hook latch or the head of a bolt somewhere and Voila instant light! My wife even dropped one of my lights in our Koi Pond, left it there overnight and told me about it in the morning (and no, unfortunately it's not waterproof). I fished it out of the pond (pun intended), opened it up and let it dry out for a day... The light was working again when I got home and has worked for many years since. Pretty much everyone that comes over and works in my garage with me comments on these lights and I have even bought several as gifts. Just make sure if you get the rechargeable unit that you get the larger of the two... It's a bit more expensive, but totally worth the extra ~$10. This is the one that I recommend.

 

And while we are on the subject of shop lights. I also have a Snap On LED work light that I use all the time. It's VERY bight and comes in very handy. It's so bight that I wish I had spent the extra $ and bought the one with the dimmer.

 

Lots of garage lighting upgrades going on lately

I replaced a single 48" 4 bulb fluorescent light with two 48" 4 bulb T8s. Really bright

I moved the old fluorescent into my garage--3 car L shaped--and now I want to upgrade that side to T8 fixtures.

 

God damn it. That info was *NOT* clearly marked. You have to interpret the specs. It's not like there was something that said in bolt print: YOU ALSO NEED TO BUY A POWER SUPPLY.

I just confirmed this with SuperBrightLeds. Grr-r-r.

I am not an electrician. Up to this point, I was pretty proud of myself running romex around the garage for various things. Now I have to figure out how (or if) I should make this work.

 

Sorry to burst your "happy bubble", John. I think they are probably expecting people to use those for automotive applications and not in their home. But you are correct, they don't make it very clear on their website.


Don't fret too much, it's an easy fix. You really just need to figure out how much current you need (amps) so you can pick the right power supply, and since LED's draw very little current it shouldn't require too much. Since watts/volts=amps and the Superbright LED's web-site says that light draws 10.8 amps.. so if you use a 24VDC power supply then 10.8/24 = 0.45 Amps. Or if you used a 12VDC power supply instead then you'd need around 0.90 Amps. All you need to do now is purchase something like the attached power supply from Amazon for $15, which has more than enough current for your light bar, 2 Amp at 24VDC. Then just cut the connector off the end of the power supply output and wire it to the 14" wiring pigtail supplied on your new LED light bar. Just make sure you get your polarity correct with the positive lead to positive and negative lead to negative. You can either solder the connections and cover with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape or just used wire nuts and tape them up with electrical tape to make sure they stay secure. Easy Peasey!

 

I actually used to sell high efficiency T5 and T8 fixtures and conversion kits through my company for commercial and industrial applications. That was 10 - 15 years ago and they were extremely bright and efficient for their time, but in recent years the dropping cost of LED lights has almost completely eliminated that market. Although I still have T8 lights in my garage at home and in my company's warehouse... They still work great and no need to fix/replace it if it isn't broken!

 

Not at all. I'm more upset at being ignorant than anything else.

I'll figure it out. And thanks for the heads-up.

 

When sedan sport seat are not good enough. I run to the coupe sport seat swap. lol

They sit lower than the sedan seats for any tall owners like me. And wait, There's more, they offer more aggressive bolster adjustment than the sedan. (imo)
And everything is plug n play, just needs the sedan module under the seat swapped over.

 

Nice to know they swap, been eyeballing them. So brackets are the same just need electronics swapped?

 

Yep, brackets are identical.
Just keep in mind, if your looking for one, make sure the coupe that the seats are coming off of has the same heated switch style. They are different (07-08 Hi/Low switch) (09-13 **** multi adjustment). the heated seat pad wire harness is different, and cannot be swapped.