I wondered at that. There's some structure in the bottom of the box to cradle the damper - but nothing on top to keep it that way. The brake line clips basically tore both boxes in half as the damper bounced around. A simple additional square of cardboard could have prevented this. They were also thrown into a larger shipping box that was loose in every dimension, and no inner packing, ensuring the inner boxes would get tossed around.

Again, RCA handled it professionally, so I have no complaints about the total purchase, except for time lost.

The spring perches are both definitely no-go unless I were to heat them up quite a bit and freeze the dampers. I think I just have to remove the ridge on the metal - the hole in the spring cup was pressed, not machined, so there's a rough ridge. I can probably do it with my ridge reamer/countersink hand tool, or a small sanding drum by hand. But as they are - it would require a hammer. Both dampers, both perches, in either combination.

And mein gott. Comparing these instructions to IKEA is like comparing cave paintings to the writings of Stephen Hawking.

 

In theory, that part of the strut would be covered by the rubber bellows/ dust cover, so any scratches would be covered anyway. Not a consolation by any means given the price point. Remember, you have to be cognizant of the direction of the perch when installing onto the tube.

Given that Koni's are Dutch (from Holland) and that IKEA is Swedish... there's no wonder the instructions are so bloody cryptic, lol.

 

That maybe explains my troubles with a Dutch girl I was friends with in Japan.

 

Another year, another NYS Inspection.

"Catalytic converters... Check!"

 

I must be the only person who doesn't like Koni shocks. Never had them on the G but I've had them multiple times on my Volvo and they ride borderline terrible and they don't really handle so good like they claim. Way overpriced and they don't last that long.

 

Seems platform dependent. On road car FD3Ss (3rd gen RX7) they were great, but on track cars they'd foam up and stay compressed (leading to the suspension staying compressed) in longer sessions.

On FC3S RX7s they were the shiz, road or track until you wanted to pay for coilovers.

Same thing with Bilsteins - really seems to be platform dependent on whether they hit the sweet spot or are completely not.

Miss my Tokiko Illuminas, for sure.

 

I bought some Tein coilovers, but haven't had them installed yet. My koni's were okay on my Suzuki Swift GT, my Bilsteins were always good on my BMWs, My Tokicos were great on my Civic, but they also sell a kit with springs, I would stay away from them.

 

I had Tokico Blues on my old Maxima. Felt like an incremental improvement over the OEM sport shocks.

Pretty sure our stock sport shocks are made by Tokico. I seem to remember seeing the Tokico label on them.

 

*were*. Tokiko is now out of business.

Had Blues on a number of FC3S cars and my FB3S first gen. Good stuff. Tokiko was the OEM for Mazda for a long time too.

 

I had a similar experience on my '02 WRX. The Koni inserts rode great on the street (especially compared to Tein Flex & JIC) and could handle a decent amount of track work. I hit "the jump" at Autobahn Country Club in IL at a high rate of speed and the adjustment tab got jammed in place. It's possible it was partly due to the fact that they were maxed out at the stiffest setting- I see that Koni notes to back them off about half a turn now. Either way, Koni replaced it for free under warranty and I never had another issue. The Tein Basis I put on my G had the best ride on the street of any coilover, but the Konis still rode better.

 

Just a teaser of one thing I've been working on - engineering design and 3D print by @iCrap of course.

 

Just saw an ad for a set of 4 front GTR wheels (20x9.5 +45), anyone have an idea for how that might look on OEM suspension?

Seems most folks that upgrade to 20” would also lower the ride height, so tough to gauge whether or not it’d look goofy

 

Look at my build page, early pics of the car had 20" Avanti wheels on the OEM suspension stuff.

I didn't like them, but not because the size proportion was out - I didn't like those specific wheels and the tires were poo.

Edited to add: I still have those, BTW. 20x 8.5 and 20x10, if you're interested.

 

I know not many (if any) are interested, but I think we filled all the slots required for the Sedan as of today. There can still be more, and whether or not the company thinks their is enough demand or not this could be a limited batch that is never sold on the market place again. Small chance this hood will be a valuable piece of history. I remember having a hood like that for my MK3 and I regret selling it every day. I know these aren't old enough or rare enough to start thinking like that but I've seen it happen with the Supra and I'm sure it will happen for these. Last chance for anyone remotely interested.

 

Hey all, I tried searching and did not find much. I'm having some kind of trouble starting my 2011 G37s. This has been going on for a while, but has been getting worse. I will hold down the clutch, and press start - most of the time I won't hear anything, but all electronics turn on acc mode.

Then I will repeat the process, depending on the day (random, happens when it's hot/cold/dry/wet all the same) - and eventually the car will turn over and start. Sometimes it's on the next press of the start button, some times it takes 10-20 tries.

I got a killer deal on a refurbished starter motor, and figured that was the issue, sadly it has not solved the problem.

My next step is going to be checking the battery (which is 2-3 years old). I really don't think it's the alternator. Am I missing anything that would cause this issue? I'm sorry if this is the wrong thread for this!