Sedan Chat Thread
I wondered about that too. I have a heavily modified VW and plan to move from Iowa to Portland, OR and am almost rethinking about moving there because i am positive it cannot pass emissions. That being said, I don;t think i will be purchasing test pipes but will be looking into HFC's, why spend the money twice in my situation.
I installed my new shift boot today. Replaced the OEM vinyl, flat, 3-panel boot with a perforated leather, 4-panel boot from Redline Goods. The OEM boot is that dark tan color used for the boot and the armrest lid cover. The new boot is Charcoal, and I'm liking that color much better. Certainly the 4-panel design works with the shifter console better, and the perforated leather... well, that's superior to vinyl in every way.
More pics here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3989955

More pics here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3989955

Looks good John, very nice.
The fitment process was *not* PnP, let me tell you. I had to really force myself to take my time, set things down and walk away, coming back to the process over and over. 4DRZ was actually a help in that, through PM.
It's not perfect. No mod is perfect. (Seriously, no mod is perfect.) But I'd give it a 95% or better.
Last edited by Rochester; Jan 29, 2016 at 09:36 AM.
It looks great from the photos. I need to follow up with them and send my old boot to them for measurement and fitment. Then I need to follow up and get the "cap" for my assembly. Meanwhile, it still needs a circumcision... I stopped for awhile, was mod frustrated and tempted to sell the car again. I think I'm in a better place now though.
I wondered about that too. I have a heavily modified VW and plan to move from Iowa to Portland, OR and am almost rethinking about moving there because i am positive it cannot pass emissions. That being said, I don;t think i will be purchasing test pipes but will be looking into HFC's, why spend the money twice in my situation.
I installed my new shift boot today. Replaced the OEM vinyl, flat, 3-panel boot with a perforated leather, 4-panel boot from Redline Goods. The OEM boot is that dark tan color used for the boot and the armrest lid cover. The new boot is Charcoal, and I'm liking that color much better. Certainly the 4-panel design works with the shifter console better, and the perforated leather... well, that's superior to vinyl in every way.
More pics here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3989955
More pics here: https://www.myg37.com/forums/build-t...ml#post3989955
I can't say for sure in North Carolina, but here in California you won't pass the visual inspection with HFC's installed. They also don't allow for aftermarket intakes, so those have to be changed back to stock when you go in for testing. My car actually passes the sniffer test without any issues, but I have to have all the stock exhaust parts in order to pass the visual inspection.
Question, about to buy some LED switchbacks, and the instructions note the following:
"Connect the wire to fuse box ACC for daytime running light feature or connect it to existing parking light positive for parking light feature"
I don't want the bulbs to be a DRL, just regular switchback. What would be required to "connect it to existing parking light positive"? Is this accessible at the bulb connector? Or would I have to find a fuse box? Trying to avoid cutting/splicing any factory wiring. TIA
Switchback LED Bulbs For Front Turn Signal & Daytime Running Lights
"Connect the wire to fuse box ACC for daytime running light feature or connect it to existing parking light positive for parking light feature"
I don't want the bulbs to be a DRL, just regular switchback. What would be required to "connect it to existing parking light positive"? Is this accessible at the bulb connector? Or would I have to find a fuse box? Trying to avoid cutting/splicing any factory wiring. TIA
Switchback LED Bulbs For Front Turn Signal & Daytime Running Lights
I spent the better part of yesterday afternoon trying to do my Hotchkis sway bars again. I got one of the 17mm nuts off the front sway bar, but the other is deteriorating and the 6-point socket isn't able to grip it, even when I hammered the socket on. I eventually gave up and did the back sway bar, which wasn't too bad.
Pretty happy with the upgraded handling, even if I've only driven my car ~30 minutes post install.
I'm gonna look into some Swift lowering springs and spacers next.
Pretty happy with the upgraded handling, even if I've only driven my car ~30 minutes post install.
I'm gonna look into some Swift lowering springs and spacers next.
I spent the better part of yesterday afternoon trying to do my Hotchkis sway bars again. I got one of the 17mm nuts off the front sway bar, but the other is deteriorating and the 6-point socket isn't able to grip it, even when I hammered the socket on. I eventually gave up and did the back sway bar, which wasn't too bad.
Pretty happy with the upgraded handling, even if I've only driven my car ~30 minutes post install.
I'm gonna look into some Swift lowering springs and spacers next.
Pretty happy with the upgraded handling, even if I've only driven my car ~30 minutes post install.
I'm gonna look into some Swift lowering springs and spacers next.










