Originally Posted by xpcgamer

Don't forget to clean off the paint from the hub and lug nut seating surface's. You will get some vibration if the hubs are not clear of paint and it doesn't seat properly and the lugs will work them selves loose.

Originally Posted by lobuzz311

Interesting. Had not thought of that.
The hub is easy to sand down. Any ideas on how to get the PC off of the lug seat? Since it's down in the "hole", it will be difficult to get to.

Originally Posted by the93owner

Finally made all of my adjustments and I'm beyond satisfied with the result. Only thing is I'm maxed out in terms of toe adjustment, so in order to reduce my rear camber I need additional toe adjustment (adjusting toe affects your camber and vice versa). I may get toe arms in the future but for now I don't think -3 is that bad. Here's a list of all my specs. Hope this helps!

• Staggered 19" coupe wheels (19x8.5 F 19x9 R)
• 245/40/19 tires all around
• Ksport true type coilovers
• SPC front & rear camber kits
• 20mm front & 15mm rear spacers
• Front camber: -1 degrees
• Rear camber: -3 degrees

As far as the drop goes, I'm about 25.8" from the ground on my front fenders. I didn't measure the rear but I assume it's something similar.

Originally Posted by joebrez

So quick question. I've been shopping around for coupe rims. I found a set of 4 rears (19x9). I have an X, so finding a square setup is very attractive.

I didn't see anyone in this thread running all rears.

Any issues? I'm not dropped yet, but Sprint Springs are on the roadmap.

Originally Posted by AUR11

I'm running 4 rears off a convertible, 19x9 (+30 offset), sits perfectly flush with a drop on swifts on my x sedan. Coupe rears have a +43 offset.

Originally Posted by lobuzz311

Depends on the spacers you're using...
Using H&R as an example, they have DRM & DRS style.
DRM is just a bolt on with a second set of studs that you bolt your wheels to. Easy, but potentially problematic, as you now have two sets of nuts to torque down and keep an eye on. You'll need to pull the wheels off to check torque on spacer nuts, as well.
DRS requires you to swap out the studs for longer ones to match the new thickness including the spacer. In order to install, you'll need to pull the caliper off and to the side, pull off rotor, then pound out the stock studs and reinstall the new ones. I used this tool to reinstall and it worked really well: Kastar 938 Wheel Stud Installer Kit
The new studs go up in size every 10mm, so if you're using 15 or 20mm spacers, there is no need to swap, but if you go up to 25 you'll need longer ones.
Is it a pain? A little bit. But it's worth the piece of mind, IMO.

Originally Posted by jfisher

Have any better pics? I should be picking up a set of these wheels tomorrow.

Originally Posted by the93owner

Here's a few, hope this helps!

Originally Posted by jfisher

That looks good!

That is -3 camber out back? What is your reasoning for that? I see you're running SPC front and rear camber kits, but what about the SPC toe bolts? Looks like you'd have room to even up the camber even with the 15mm spacers.

I want to run these wheels, but tire wear is my priority. This thing is my daily. I don't want to have to keep buying 19" tires every year.

Originally Posted by the93owner

My alignment tech advised against drilling a larger hole for the SPC toe bolts because he said it'd compromise the subframe.

Originally Posted by the93owner

but -3 ain't so bad.

Originally Posted by Rochester

My mechanic didn't even hesitate. And my Alignment Tech was a 30-year Sr. Tech at my dealership. He thought it was fine. Maybe. It's a subjective thing. Personally, I feel that when wheels tilt deeper than -2.5*, it becomes very noticeable on the G Sedan. However if that's the look you want, then winning!

Originally Posted by the93owner

Yeah most do it, but I said I was going to get toe arms anyways (or so I thought lol). The camber is actually less noticeable than you think. I thought it was at -2 at most.