G37 7speed transmission reprogram
I track mine and never notice a lurch when doing so. The only time mine lurches or downshifts hard is if I accidentally depress the gas pedal slightly. I brake as if I was driving a manual, as in heel-and-toe position. Old habits die hard.
Ok. Weird...I know what you mean. I certainly know to keep my heel off the accelerator during breaking and paddling down. It’s almost as if instead of matching the revs, that it revs higher for they second instead causing the slight accell before decell. Hopefully some others will chime in with some explanation...hopefully other than that somethings wrong... An additional note of information, the person who owned it from 4000k to 38550 between 2010 and 2018 was a slow conservative mindle aged lady who drove it like a dying Cadillac!
<div style="text-align:left;"><br /><br />Ok. Weird...I know what you mean. I certainly know to keep my heel off the accelerator during breaking and paddling down. It’s almost as if instead of matching the revs, that it revs higher for they second instead causing the slight accell before decell. Hopefully some others will chime in with some explanation...hopefully other than that somethings wrong... An additional note of information, the person who owned it from 4000k to 38550 between 2010 and 2018 was a slow conservative mindle aged lady who drove it like a dying Cadillac! </div>
I noticed that the when I downshifted manually with the paddle when slowing down that the car would kinda lurch forward each time when it rev matched. That seemed really weird to me to feel the car do that. Is that normal? I'm used to how a MT feels on a braking downshift....
Especially going that slowly I wouldn't expect that to happen. Again, one would expect the reverse. So when you let the AT downshift to 1st on its own as you're nearing a stop, does it still do it then? Ever ask Infiniti about it?
I'll chime back in after. Also, only been on the forum a few days. Any way to save threads I've posted in for a quick find later?
Thanks
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Was looking at the rpms today and I noticed that as I am cruising then stomp on the gas, I notice somtimes the rpms drop a little (maybe like 100) before shooting up normally. Is this normal? Lets say I am going 35 and the car in front of me slows down to take a turn and I cannot pass. I slow down, then stomp on the gas to quickly accelerate back. The rpms will drop very slightly then shoot up normally and the car shifts normal. There is very very little lag too. Is this normal? Throttle problem? Worried that it is worse.
So I'm definitely noticing that my car is flaring every time I shift UP into 5th from 4th. The 6 to 5 shift is smooth as butter but 4 to 5 flares for almost a good 1.0-1.5 seconds before it engages... Most other shifts seem to be pretty fine? Anyone else experiencing this issue? Currently at 200,000kms. I'm hoping it's just the TCM that needs to be reprogrammed.
I have a variety of transmission annoyances but not all seem to fit what's been described here. I'm trying to figure out if something is wrong or if it's just crappy programming. (and what to do about it)
Do the last three sound like something is going bad? Most of this has been happening ever since I got the car, though.
I plan on getting an Ecutek tune anyway. If this is mostly just programming, is there any reason to get a software update from my dealer when Ecutek will make changes anyway? Is it an overwrite or will the factory mapping still affect things? If I get the tune and then later the dealer tries to update my software, will it undo my tune?
- I have the infamous "delay" where I've been coasting or trail braking in D and when I press the gas pedal nothing happens for a couple of seconds
- I have the lag where I go to pass somebody and the car downshifts and the engine screams but it takes a second or so before I feel any real thrust
- When accelerating gradually there is frequently a flare out on 4-5 (but not always)
- Sometimes it just feels like the torque converter isn't working well and the car suffers from general sluggishness while the rpms move up and down seemingly disconnected from what's happening at the wheels
- When I accelerate hard the car slides from 1-2 and lightly shudders. It sort of feels like something is slipping, (if there was a screeching sound I would think the tires were struggling for grip, but I know they're not as I'm AWD and the light isn't coming on - also no noise) but the car pulls the whole time, like a bad CVT.
- Once I'm moving, and when the stars align just right, the car can/does pull hard. But power delivery is weird and uneven off the line, and I don't think it's just the engine's torque curve. It sort of jerks and bounces. It feels like I'm having lag in 1st, then it hooks up and pulls for a couple thousand rpms, then it shudders and slides into 2nd, and then I get the real power and I'm already going 40mph. I can't even chirp the tires a tiny bit, and there should be more than enough power for traction to be a limiting factor.
Do the last three sound like something is going bad? Most of this has been happening ever since I got the car, though.
I plan on getting an Ecutek tune anyway. If this is mostly just programming, is there any reason to get a software update from my dealer when Ecutek will make changes anyway? Is it an overwrite or will the factory mapping still affect things? If I get the tune and then later the dealer tries to update my software, will it undo my tune?
Last edited by woofersus; May 13, 2018 at 10:30 AM.
I suspect part of your issue is unknowingly activating DSC. 1) is typical of the 7AT and I attribute it to Nissan's way of getting good city numbers on the EPA fuel mileage test.
Dealer flash will overwrite any aftermarket tune. Your tuner should flash back to stock, then when dealer work is complete, have your tuner reflash his tune. You can do this with a cable but don't ask me how as I've never played with aspect. I do believe there is something in a D.I.Y. forum.
Dealer flash will overwrite any aftermarket tune. Your tuner should flash back to stock, then when dealer work is complete, have your tuner reflash his tune. You can do this with a cable but don't ask me how as I've never played with aspect. I do believe there is something in a D.I.Y. forum.
So do the 7AT sedans (2012 G37x) also have this "learning period"? It seems like the car struggles to figure out what gear I want it to be in. DS mode seems to be a little better, but if I'm in D even the slightest acceleration (maybe 1/3 depressed) causes a downshift followed by an almost immediate shift back up. Will behavior like this get better over time, or should I take to the dealer to see if there is any kind of update? I've never had a car that required updates, so I'm new to all this.






